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WORK FOR THE PRESENT

DEALING WITH THE WEED MENACE .Now that northerly winds have been prevailing, although a wot southerly has replaced them for part oi! the present week, the ground is drying up nicely and warming up too, making it possible to give attention to cultivation in places where the soil previously was too wet and heavy to touch. With soed sowing woll to the fore, as well as much planting, this and next month provide the busiest period of the year, though there are very £qv slack months to the keenest of gardeners, who are always able to find some job to do. At all seasons there is digging and weeding to be carried out, and where satisfactory results are being sought after idleness must at all times bo avoided. Nothing looks worse in a garden than neglect, and tho well-kept garden is a joy to the gardener himself and to all who behold. Where there have been vacant plots all should have been dug by now, and while this is quite a simple operation there is a correct way in which it should bo carried out. Always start off with a trench a spit wide and ii spit deep, retaining tho trench as the digging procoeds. The soil from the first spit should be wheeled in .1 barrow to tho other side of the plot ready to fill in when the digging gets to that point. Where tho ground is full of weeds, so ofton tho case where ground has been neglected for some time, the top should bo skimmed off two or three inches deep, placing this weed-side downwards in tho bottom of the trench. Such weeds as couch grass, docks, and sorrel, however, should never bo buried, as they invariably grow again unless placed at a great depth, filling the land with roots which cause endless labour at a later date. All such weeds should be carefully removed, every piece being gathered and burnt, and this is really the only safe method of disposing of these troublesome posts. In order to gain the greatest benefit from the warm sun which is now bringing things along at a rapid rate, all ground between growing crops, especially among vegetables, should be frequently stirred with tho hoe. This work cannot bo overdone, and the more often tho soil is disturbed -with the hoe the better, but care must be taken not to disturb the roots of growing plants, otherwise tho crop so affected may be thrown back. Of course, this work can only bq done when the ground is dry, otherwise it only has a tendency to harden the surface, particularly on heavy soils, a . heavy crust being formed which cracks when tho dry weather happens along, and does nothing except hasten evaporation at a tamo when all possible moisture is required. AMONG THE VEGETBLES. Seed of peas, broad beans, carrots, parsnips, turnips, spinach, and the various kinds of saladings should bo sown as soon as possible, only sufficient of oaeh variety being put in to supply the needs of the household, a succession of crops being secured by regular sowings. Spinach is one of the most useful vegetables it is possible to grow, 'containing as it does excellent medicinal properties. This vegetable requires good soil, and it must be grown quickly in order to secure really satisfactory plants, which, in addition, should bo kept moist. The seed should bo sown at intervals of two or three weeks so as to ensure a succession of young and tender growths. Sow in drills in rich soil, dropping the seed thinly to a depth of about a quarter of an inch, the drills being from eight to ten inches apart. A fairly shady position suits this crop best, as in very dry situations or during dry spells it runs to seed very rapidly. For this reason it is advisable not to sow more than can bo used in tho course of a couple of weeks or so, making later sowings as they are required. Beans and peas require land that has lime in it, and for this reason it is wise to sprinkle some of this valuable adjunct ou to the ground, raking it in before any sowing is made. Cabbages, cauliflowers, and lettuce should be planted in quantities to suit requirements. In some districts, especially near the sea coast, these crops aro often badly affected by fly, and this must be obviated by dusting soot over the plants while they are wot with dew. Soot is very acrid and is very distasteful to all pests. Soot is also a wise precaution against the depredations of slugs and snails. An emulsion of kerosene may bo used for this purpose, but should only bo used while tho plants are small, otherwise tue flavour will bo affectod and the kerosene tasted when the vegetable is cooked. ])o not be in too great a hurry to plant tomatoes or to sow French and butter beans. No real advantage is obtained by a too early sowing of these crops, and it frequently leads to a direct loss. There is almost invariably a cold snap during the present month, and these plants cannot stand up against cold or rough weathor. It is far better to spend a little more time in tha preparation of tho soil, and then, when the tomato plants aro put in, or the beans are put into the ground, they will come away with little or no cheek, thus more than making up for any time lost. Vory rich soil is not required for tomatoes, and on no account should an attempt be made to grow them in wet ground with inadequate drainage. They are subject to almost the same diseases as potatoes, and this is encouraged at, well as frequently caused, by ground which is too moist. It is for this reason that tomatoes ars most subject to blight'in wet seasons than they are in dry. Perfect drainage is an essential, together with plenty of humus in the soil. Fresh stable manuro should bo carefully avoided. French and butter beans require- a deeply-worked, rich soil, together with au abundance of lime, like all leguminous subjects. If wood ashes are available from a rubbish fire they should be sprinkled iv tho trench before sowing. SPRAYIKO FRUIT TREES. When the buds on peach and nectarine trees turn pink they .should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture as a preventive to leaf-curl. The gardener

should bu direful to see that every part of the tree is thoroughly wet, and for this reason the work should only- bo carried out when the weather is calm and the trees dry. If rain does coino along before the spray on the trees is dry, it will be necessary to make a further application, as the rain will have washed all the previous spray away. This spraying should be curried out before the flowers open,' the correct time being when the buds arc showing colour. I IN THE FLOWER GARDEN: Although vegetables are.. profitable growing, much of an amateur gardener's real joy conios froni'the results he secures among his flowers,!, and .at this time of the year there is much to be done in this part of the garden. . The warmth "is bringing along growth at a very rapid pace, which also means that undesirable weeds are doing their utmost to grow and go to seed before they are destroyed. It is uot only in the flower beds that attention must be given in this, direction, but along all paths where numberless young, weeds will soon be going to seed and so cansing endless trouble at some later date. Untidy and neglected paths also create a bad impression and spoil the appearance of the most beautiful-garden. Annual weeds may be easily, dostroyed by frequent use of the Dutch hoc, but where dandelions, couch grass, and sorrel become apparent it. is advisable to procure some sort of weed-killer, taking care that it docs uot get on the flower beds, as •it is just as deadly to flowers as it is to weeds. The sowing of annuals should now be put in hand as soon as possible, and during dry, windy weather - care will have to be taken that the beds do not get too dry. This is quite frequently the cause of much disappointment, particularly whore the finer seeds are concerned, as they are; generally sown with little or no covering of soil. The tiny seedlings will push through the soil all right, but the roots are unable to reach any moisture and they accordingly die, thus killing the whole plant. A good idea is to have some covering to prevent evaporation, and also to water with a fine-rosed can. There are other causes for unsatisfactory results where annuals are concerned, especially in borders, the principal one boing the gardener's failure to thin them out as they grow up. He should take out the weaklings and leave strong and healthy. It is almost impossible to sow the seeds thinly enough, even when mixed with a little light soil or sand, and when the seeds germinate the plans are generally far too crowded. Most of them should be thinned out to about four inches apart, and in some cases oven a greater distance is advisable. The conns of gladioli may still bo planted, and no garden should be. without these valuable adjuncts to. its beauty. If planted in succession each year from August to November blooms may be obtained over a very long period. The eorms should be planted from three to five inches deep, and, preferably, in clumps of one colour. The effect of so planting is much better than by planting singly or' in straight rows. Good soil is required for the best results, but fresh manure should on no account come in contact with the corns. If the soil is not of very good quality' it is advisable to mix in a small quantity of bone-dust at the rate of about a handful to the square-yard. - ■■•'•■ '-y'>:.:.. "GREENING" OF PLANTS. Dealing with what is known as "greening" in flowers, particularly with Iceland poppies, an Australian paper has the following to say:—"lnstead of a beautiful bloom at the apex, the stalk frequently carries a conglomeration 'of leaf-like growths green in colour. The cause is obscure and investigations into its origin are still inconclusive. Mostly it is met with in annuals and herbaceous plants. Apparently vigorous plants sometimes offend, the faulty inflorescence sometimes maintaining the exact floral appearance of the normal flower except for the greening, and in others the abnormal growth takes the form of a massing of small green leaves instead of the flower expected. No acceptable explanation has been given of the cause, although the work of insects and fungi have been blamed as well as. the intensive selection of seeds from prolific or profusely flowering plants, forced to maximum production annually by stimulating fertilisers. Mr. Edward E. Preseott, .P.L.S., F.R.H.S., says that 'at present the only feasible explanation seems to be that of "reversion"; that is, that the plant, owing to some unknown cause or causes, has reverted to the original type of flowers or to the primitive green types of flower growths of centuries ago.' The abnormality sometimes, but more rarely, appears in the perennial plants. Hence the 'green' rose was put on the market because the freak could be perpetuated by buds. It is believed that a contributing cause of the evil is continuous interbreeding."

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https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/EP19280913.2.164.1

Bibliographic details

Evening Post, Volume CVI, Issue 55, 13 September 1928, Page 21

Word Count
1,922

WORK FOR THE PRESENT Evening Post, Volume CVI, Issue 55, 13 September 1928, Page 21

WORK FOR THE PRESENT Evening Post, Volume CVI, Issue 55, 13 September 1928, Page 21

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