In the Garden

Evening Post, Volume CVI, Issue 4, 5 July 1928, Page 22

In the Garden

BY "PRACTICAL"

THE NEW SEASON MUCH WORK IN SIGHT riOME ADVICE TO THE AMATEUR (By "Practical.") The .month:of July is generally considered to ba the 'commencement of the new season so far as gardening operations arc concerned, though there is little or no sign, of actual growth. In order that/the spring and summer seasons shall bo as successful as possible, it ia necessary to tako advantage of every opportunity to get necessary work under way. One of the most important items is to prepare the ground for the several crops which are to he sown in, but this must only be done when the soil is in fit condition for digging. Where necessary the ground should bo dug three spits deep, as shown in the accompanying illustration, this being particularly necessary in the treatment of virgin ground which is to be used for "root crops. If it does not receive this treatment' it is impossible for the ground to give its full benefit to the growing crop, and even though it entaiis some very hard work, it is really worth while in the long run. Ground dug in this way will remain in excellent condition for three or four seasons, and will only require digging sjjade-deep for several years. When carrying out fiucli digging it is of considerable assistance if the gardener can place some manure in the lower spit, stable manure being excellent for this purposs, but some green crop is equally efficacious in assisting growth when the time comes for the crops to seek sustenance at a time when it is most necessary. It has another advantage in that manure of this kind collects and holds moisture right through the summer months, thus giving very necessary nourishment to plants in a manner which cannot be equalled by watering, even rain not being more beneficial. FIRST CROPS. ' The planting of early potatoes, cabbage and cauliflower plants, herbs, and autumnsown onions, may be proceeded with dur-

later on to bring them into a fruit-bear-ing condition. To overcome this trouble, :MiV H. H. Thomas, editor of an English paper called "The Gardener," gives the following advice:' "It is advisable," he writes, "to"root-prune all those that are unusually vigorous (those growing against a wall are often the chief offenders) each season for the first. three years. Itootpruning is effected by taking out a trench (all round the tree if in the open ground) at a distance varying according to the age of the tree. It should not be closer to the stem than 3ft, even for young trees,

and for established trees ought not to approach nearer than 4ft "or sft. The object of root-pruning is to cut back severely all thick, strong roots. These have a great tendency to descend deeply into the subsoil if not checked. There they are beyond control, grow rankly, and produce rank growth above ground Having opened the trench, fork beneath the mass of soil until the thick roots are found, cut them back, and lay in a horizontal direction. Small.fibrous roots, which conduce to short-jointed, fruitful shoota, are thus induced to form. Young fruit trees should not be manured. In root-pruning established trees it is wise to open a trench on one side of the tree only, cutting back the roots that can be reached from there. Similar treatment may be given the other side the following year."

ing tlie month, providing, of course, that the ground is in suitable condition. Onions require very rich soil, and it cau hardly be too heavily manured. Stable droppings mixed with straw are the best, if obtainable, and this can be further added to by . mixing soot with the top soil, using sufficient to blacken it. When planting out young oniocs do not bury the bulbs, only the roots being placed in the ground, which should be made firm before planting. In planting cabbages, and cauliflowers it is wise' to use nitrate of soda in a proportion of one :ounce to' the square yard of ground as manure, but under no condition should this be used for peas, the same quantity of nitrate of ammonia being much more serviceable for "them. These two dressings should be applied in liquid form ■when the ground1 is wet after rain. Early, crops "of peas and plants of lettuce,' which' have been planted out during the past, month, could with advantage now receive,a. dressing of manure to help on the growth which should commence during the present month. THE FLOWER GARDEN. If the flower garden needs rearrangement such work should be planned and carried out during the present month, most of the plants now being dormant and easily handled without holding them back. Should it be necessary under a scheme of rearrangement..to transplant trees and shrubs :due care should be exercised in seeing that as little damage' as possible is done to the roots. The best method to adopt is to dig a trench round the tree to be moved,- not too close but at a distance in accordance with its height. The roots immediately beneath the tree or shrub should then be severed with a sharp spade, the subject being removed with the soil, still undisturbed around its remaining roots. _ If this is carried out properly the ti'ee^will^iiptvreceive any cheek in growth, but' before putting it into its new location.,'any broken or. lacerated roots should bo carefully trimmed off with a sharp knife or. seccateurs. The 'work of planting roses, flowering, and other shrubs should be continued without'further delay, always allowing plenty o£ room for later growth, and having the hole!in which it is to be placed of sufficient size to allow the roots to be properly epread out before filling in the top soil. The planting- out of Liliums should be proceeded with, provided the soil-has been properly trenched and drained. Many of thesp really; beautiful plants are stem-root-ing; ;that is, they send out roots from the stem: above the bulb and so require sufficient depth of soil to allow of the roots being covered, when they start out into the ground.; All such stem-rooting subjects shoujd be planted at least eight inches deep; for full-sized bulbs, but bulbs of smaller size' need not be put in so deep, the jgardener using his judgment as to the depth required. It is really too late to lifjt lilies now, this work really having bccn.t due as soon as they started to die down, but if it is necessary to lift and divide any such clumps, then they should bo removed without delay and put back as soon as possible. Most of the failures which are complained of with liliums can bo traced to this habit of drying-oif bulbs, which, if practised, is bound to lead to' disappointment. Herbaceous plants may be propagated by division of the roots, Michaelmas daisies, ■Shasta daisies, pyrethmms, solidago, heleniums, and other plants being increased :n this way. Tfc is advisable to use the young shoots from the oiitaide of the old stools, -and any piece which lias a crown, from:-which the leaves and flower .stems are thrown, as' well as some roots, will make a strong plant in the summer season. Herbaceous plants) really flourish much better when so treated, as when allowed to remain in.large clumps the roots get matted and require much more food to sustain ; the growth above the surface during the flowering season; the blooms suffering in consequence. Young chrysanthemum shoots should be encouraged by forking round the old roots*. These ypimg plants will be required within a week or two to form a basis for next season's flowering. The usual practice of dividing the old roots into smaller pieces is not the best means of getting new plants for the coming season, the resulting blooms never being equal to those obtained from fresh young plants grown on a single stem. . Dahlias were all cut down last month, or should have been, and may now bo lifted and placed in a dry place to rest during the remainder of the winter months. They may be placed under a fence or a tree, anil if covered with some rough litter will remain quite safe and sound until the time comes for them to be again put into the ground. Whatever happens they must not be allowed to be nipped by frost, as if this happens they will be ruined. ROOT PRUNING FRUIT TREES. For two or three years* after planting, young fruit trees are prone to make very luxuriant growth, and, as a result, be.ir little or no fruit. But this is not the worst evil, for unless the trees are made to produce short-jointed growth of moderate vigour it will be almost impossible