PARIS IN THE LOOKINGGLASS

Evening Post, Volume CIX, Issue 40, 15 August 1925, Page 15

PARIS IN THE LOOKINGGLASS

FASHIONS AND FANCIES,

(Written for "The Post" by

'Germaine.")

PATHS, 20th June. "With the fashionable racing fixture of the Prix dcs Drags, which takes place in a few days now, ihe brilliant and vivid Paris season draws towards its close. The Grande Semaine, which opens at Auteuil, closes at Longchamps, when the Grand Prix do Paris will be run before the President of the Republic. The "Drags" no longer brings out a long line of handsome mail-coaches, but the few that have survived the all-encroaching automobile will meet, as usual,' on the Place de la Concorde, and drive in state and splendour between ranks of interested spectators down the Champs Elysees, to the racecourse in the Bois de Boulogne. When tho last race is run there will be a great gathering at the Polo Club, a few yards from the racecourse, and dinner time will find many of the same racing public gathered round the tables of the pleasant restaurants of the Bois.

But soon will come tho exodus to more favoured climes, and then we shall bear the first rumours oE what is going on at Deauville, Dinard, etc. In * the meantime, hrilliant scenes are to be witnessed

in the dining-rooms of the smart hotels, where the cream of cosmopolitan and of .French Society mingle. One sees the same people at the principal Embassies, where the dinners are particularly recherches. In tho rest of society the dinners are characterised by a more charming Mntimacy, and less official character. I have seen a great many satin crepe dresses, laco and lames. Quantities of pearls and diamonds are worq, in the shape of diadems, necklaces and bracelets. Everywhere the women, on leaving the table, produce their cigarette cases,' generally marvels of the goldsmith's craft, and proceed to smoke.

JEWELLERY. Pearl necklaces are worn very long, and imitation pearls and imitation jewellery is very much to the fore. When pearls are worn, one row is close round the neck, and the rest is arranged with studied carelessness into a loop that falls between the bare shoulders. For day wear, it is the correct thing to wear the "sautoirs" of pearls with one row olose to the nock, and two ends'crossed over the shoulders, one hanging down in front, *nd the other behind. To show that this is intentional,'and that no accident has happened to the necklace,, each end has something to finish it off, such as an odd pearl, a diamond, emerald, sapphire, or amethyst, or simply a modest cornelian —another caprice. The rage for rows of pearls shows itself even on the wrists in combination with quantities of' other bracelets.

Whether they wear their hair long or 'short, smart women this season are using.plenty of combs and pin combs, so as to keep rebellious locks in thoir place at the back of the neck or down their temples. The pin-combs are put in, Chinese fashion, and pointing in opposite directions. They are made in all sorts of. new shapes—crescents, ovals, squares, circles, triangles, and cockade.l' —and have delicate incrustations of paste diamonds, and other imitation stones, uteel or silver nail-heads, mother o' pearl, and jet. When the hair is rolled up or ,made into a chignon in accordance with the latest caprice—a caprice by the way, consisting of a false chignon attached to a shingled head, goodness only knows how—a large flat comb is used at the back of the head. The top of the head is the. place for the diadem, and in the middle is the hale or crescent comb. All these are made of white, blonde, or jasper horn, or galalithe, of the colour preferred for evening wear. They are delicately carved, and set with precious metals or stones.

FROCKS WHICH ADD DELIGHT TO SUMMER DAYS. Washing frocks of all kinds "are here, and the sun, when he consents to shine, will bring them out as thick as daisies in the grass. For tho airy fabric of our summer dreams wo have cotton in its many and surprisingly diverse forms, cool linen, or the soft suppleness of washing silk and crepe- de chine. Voile is more beautiful than ever, and cornea gaily flowered, or in those quaint checked patterns which suit this fabric so well. Spotted mimlin, which always 1 carries with it an atmosphere of youthful freshness and, country days, is newly coiiir into favour, and crisp organdie, ' much ruffled, makes the most (erupting of friM-ks. f'.ut, I think l-ii.-il, voiln holds tho I'iikn Uii* wpttoa. 11i*y aae «i »ll

shades and all designs. I saw- one of alternate blue and pink stripes, and on the blue stripe was embroidered a dancing chain of nymphs and fawns. A white ground was scattered with multicoloured flowers and tiny black dots. Towelling material is seen a good deal. Nothing is so pretty, I. think, as a white "towel-frock" cut quite simply, embroidered with bright-coloured wool or bound at the neck, sleeves, and hem with a narrow ribbon or cord. Those little gowns_ are very friendly to the tub. Simplicity of design is the cardinal feature of the ideal washing frock. Skirts may be full or straight, but those with fullness on the hips made by little cascades of frills are particularly engaging. Prills make the prettiest of trimmings for summer dresses, and these may run length-wise or across, or both combined, as fancy dictates. LACE AND WOMEN. , More sober, and therefore most French, are the big guipures employed for collars, cuffs, and in varied trimmings. These guipures will be, with lace, one of the great successes of the summer—for, whatever one may say or think, the Par-' isienne limits herself with difficulty to exclusive sports attire. Her exquisite grace, her innate coquetry, her desire to please and to exercise her tyranny of attraction, alienate her from the masculine harshness of the tailor-made, and all similar styles. Embroidered tulles of a rare beauty are being made, and will enter into rivalry with the richest lace, and organdiea as much worked as the lace itself. The line this season will continue to be straight, and will be characterised by a simplicity worthy of an ancient Greek statue. Its sobriety is softened by the subtly feminine choicn of materials, and there is a great variety of light and shade and effective contrast in these new materials, which harmonise wonderfully with the Tan-agra-like appearance of the modern wo- j man, and also with the filmy effects of the lace, which, as I just .remarked, is so frequently worn.