PARIS IN THE LOOKING GLASS

Evening Post, Volume CIV, Issue 91, 14 October 1922, Page 16

PARIS IN THE LOOKING GLASS

FASHIONS AND FANCIES

{Written for "The Post"- by "Garmaina."} /

PABIS, 30th August,

For the last Sunday of August, the holiday month, those Parisians who are ■not at the seaside, went en masse to St. Germain for the Pete de Loges. The Voodß in all parts of tho subnrbs are still astonishingly green, which is' to be accounted fon, of course, by the wet summer vie have, had, which has laid the dust and washed the heavy green of the foliage. A few days more, and the colours will change to the gold, russet, and a tawny of tho autumn, but fop 'the moment, there is no sign 'of the year's decay .to be detected in the splendid belt of/ woods that' is the glory and also the health of^Paris. The fair, or its forest setting, kept the city folk happy and gay till late in the evening, I and many dinners were served at the ■ "Gunguettos," where the spits turned merrily, with snch fat chickens, that it was an unceasing surprise to diners how they could furnish the microscopic portions served by the patron.

GLITTERING HATS AND GLITTER-

ING JEWELS.

Paris milliners are now using an ostrich feather which has been painted with shining gold, to trim some bla-ck hats. In other models, leather hats are painted in vivid colours outlined in gold,

and there are even leather toques brilliantly lacquered in gold) in silver, and in mother o' pearl. » A fashion has arisen for brilllantlyhucd hats, including among the feather specimens, ruddy brown pheasant and partridge hats. , A sequin hat is of remarkable brilliance, sparkling from crown to brim. Cerise velvet is used for hats adorned with donkey 7 ear bows. Bowlshaped crowns are seen in'vitrol green and golden brown shades, with brims to match. Eccentric quill feathers in pink, with scarlet spote pointed downwards, and almost framing the face, were the adornments of a black panne turban at a hat shown in Paris yesterday. Wo- | •men aro no longer suspicious about the ill-luck attributed to the wearing of peacock plumage, for the favourite hat of the early winter will be made of the feathers of this bird; with the head reared aloft above a bunch of "eyes." TEHS FOR THRED FACES. Veils are to play an important' role m the winter millinery, and they assume some fantastic forms. Large and filmy, they have a pattern of shadow lace, and are edged with fur. Their special mission will. be to soften the somewhat trying^ lines of the brilliant leather lacquered" toques which are set low on the eyes hiding the eyebrows, and indeed calling for some such touch air this of the veil! Sometimes the veil covers the face, that is the advice ■ for what milliners kindly call tired faces; but younger women wear the veil floating down their backs, and allow, only a narrow edge to fall over the eyes.. Different colours are used, dark grey or brown being preferred, even with black hats, and the fur edging may be brown or grey to match. SPANISH PICTURE GARB IN NEW PARIS DRESSES. One of the dressmakers in Paris has shown a collection of models for her autumn display, which is so extraordinary, that it should bo placed in a museum as a work of art.. It is highly interesting as a study of the period which it. represents-^l&3o—and recalls so strongly the collection of paintings by Bpanish ■ masters in the Petit Palais that one readily forgets the surroundings of the dressmaking establishment. The mannequins, with their crinolines, stiff taffetas dresses, Spanish laces, and veils falling from big picture hats, look as if they had stepped from under the brush of Goyat. This collection of models adds- more variety to the Paris styles, in .that it stands out in marked contrast to all the other shows. It can best be described as a. picture show that would not fail to appeal to lovers of art. All the models that are not influenced by Spanish masters . are distinctly reminiscent of..the Italian paintei's, and the Palr.ce of the Doge is often brought into mind. It cannot be said that such models are wearable, but they are so beautiful to look at, that Parisiennes will probably accept them, regardless of the inconvenient hip hoops. The tailored costumes compensate for the unwcarable quality of the picture drosses, by being the most wearable that have yet been shown in Paris. They, too, have the Spanish touch, in extraordinary dashes of most brilliant colours. ' ADVANCED STYLEg. 'The above remarks I have given with a view to furnishing a guide to those of my readers, who, for one reason or anoHwr, find it necessary to have news as to fashion tendencies in Paris at the earliest possible moment: . It should always b~ remembered that at this early stage, the fashions arc merely ballons .d'essai (trial balloons), as the French plii'iUvu goes. Hut to those whose busiU'sZH Anvnuniii n.dvjwticml fashion nnvtit, thtso remarks will furnish valuable m v

Formation as to what is taking place in the circles where fashions originate.

SKIRTS. Skirts for suits are generally still mod. Bwtely short, and moderately scant, The majority, as I noted some fcime ago, show an irregumr line at the hejr., hem?: for the most part made with strain; j-anels, which extend an inch or so below the edge of the foundation tkirt. M.ur/ skirts in tunic or wrapped styles, which close at the sides after the. manner of the Chinese women's skirts, axe shown. These also feature once more the irregular line at the hem, and are slightly shorter at the front than across the f>ides and at the back. Generally speaking, ail skirts are absolutely flat at back and front, and what fullness there is, massed at the sides. Apron tunics are still popular^ and new models in this style a-re shown, in which the tunic is made in a detachable form, so that it can be removed at will, leaving a perfectly straight chemise gown underneath. All kinds of one-sided effects are much emphasised in dresses and panels of all kindg* aa-e extensively used. Grey of all shades promises to bo one of the most fashionable colours. Golden brown ana: gT-eep are used to some extent. For sport,, bright yellow, scarlet, and purple, are favoured.