IN THE WORLD OF DRESS

Evening Post, Volume CIV, Issue 7, 8 July 1922, Page 16

IN THE WORLD OF DRESS

COLOUR AND SPARKLE

AM at once, millinery has undergone a transformation. The race fixtures approach, and, doubtless, with last year's Asoot gruelling still in vivid recollection, when hats were small and shade could not anywhere he found, milliners are taking no risks of scorched necks. The new race hats are of immense proportions^—high in the crown, brim dimensions accentuated from side to side, and so wide altogether that there is a marked droop, so that bare necks will be well .protected and not much of the face will be visible in the setting. The new model hats will give the shade whicdi many of -he new parasols will be incapable of imparting—for some aro very small and ■many are very transparent; those of fabric which might afford protection arc miniature in size; set in sticks unduly long, with a ferrule that projects far ibeyond the shade.

To return to the large hats. The majority are of bea/tttiful crinoline, plain or of the lace pattern, and they are in all colours—cherry, orange, cyclamen, nigger beige, grey, jade, navy, black, white, champagne. The high crown is generally ■given a creased fold near the top, and the trimming may be merely a band of eire ribbon of self tone, woven in fine .stripes, with a wide bow that spreads flatly across the back. Some of the crinoline shapes, as well as immense shapes of wired tulle, are veiled with radium lace, which droops with a pendant corner on the right shoulder. OspTeys, ostrich plumes, and feather mounts are wonderful and they are profusely used—generally lying flat on the brim. They may droop over the edge, or Ipoint far beyond it, but they do not aspire to bo erect; drooping angles are far more orthodox. Ear-clusters of flowers ■under the brim, are often seen, and they are very effective and simple. There are some very shady shapes made of ninon, one in beautiful orange, being trimmed with three rows of orange velvet ribbon, falling in long ends after having been carelessly knotted on the right side. The drooping tendency of wide brims is ac.centuated when a large rose is placed at one side near its edge. There are, no doubt, millinery models of small. and medium sizes, but they really are quite eclipsed for the time being. The only instances where oepreys Tear upward are to be found in the case of the transparent tulle toque shapes where tho ethereal encircling forest is as (thick as ever it has been; it surrounds the head completely but is not by any means compact; the model providing neither protection to the top of the head nor to the eyes, but it is undeniably attractive set amid surroundings absolutely appropriate in all details. Transparent shapes are sometimes of radium lace, and those semi-transparent, of silk georgette, are very suitable for all occasions. Feather toques in a large ' size, imade of ostrich strands, still are in, .evidence, set' well, down on the brow. One cannot help remarking upon tho continued popularity of nigger brown—it fitill is the favourite millinery tone and 'goes so well with all the orange colourings and soft beiges that enter into dress construction at present. ANEW RIBBON. Millinery ribbons are wonderful—alike in colour, in colour-unions, and in design; some have in juxtaposition contrasting stripes that, ought to swear, but somehow don't. Cire, or varnished ribbon, continues to be used, but for originality place must be accorded tho new zenana ribbons in satin. The zenana marking is not what everyone would select, for it lacks the effect of softness which gives ribbons one of their charms. Zena-na-pattemed dress materials are seen, but they are not yet at aE popular, and one wonders whether the ribbon will make, much headway. Ono of the most striking features of the new toilettes is the generous use of galon and ribbon trimmings. Many black crepe moracain dresses that havo arrived from Paris have had tho front of their bodices trimmed with bars of gold fancy galon brocaded in black, or straps of goffered black petersham or moire ribbon set diagonally across the front. Some of the new models show parallel bars of black moire ribbon of narrow width, niched frqm the waist to > the low decolletage in bars that stop" short an inch or two from either side. Similar ribbon trimmings are also used to border the cascade or wing side panels that trim so many of the new skirts. These hang in low points below the hem —a style that, although picturesque, is anything but convenient to wear. _ In other cases the. ribbon is formed into rosettes, arranged in a double line right down a black satin dress, from shoulder to hem, the low waistline being indicated by a circlet of them. DECORATIVE VEILINGS. The wide-meshed, French-made veils with deep borderings of bold, design in coloured silks and chenille seem likely to remain for a long while; they certainly trim very effectively many hat brims with their clusters of grapes and currants and their floral scrolls. Others are bordered lightly in gold thread with delicate touches of colour, or with heavier chenille surrounding. With a good Tuscan or tagel hat, they constitute a trimming in themselves. ' LINGERIE IN PARIS. A correspondent writes from Paris: "Some of tho latest under-garments are ■made of a soft washable material which has a crepe surface, but is in reality a land of taffetas. I-have seen parures made of it, black decked out with exquisite white silk embroideries, and ribbons of white washing silk appearing at necessary points.. Lingeres who believe that long and full skirts will prevail, are showing flounced petticoats. Combination petticoats and _ petticoatbodices are again to be seen in the best Ibigerie studios. This is comprehensible because the corsage gets. tighter and tighter, while the skirt is allowed to 'flare' widely.

BLACK MONOGRAMS ON CREPE.

"Eminently attractive are under-gar-ments made of palest mauve or flesh pink washing crepe, inset with motifs of fine lace. A clever note of black added in the shape of an intricate monogram or pet name worked in black washing silks, the monogram appearingat the left side of the chemise or combination and in, the centre, rather low down, on the nightdress. "There is something specially youthful about mauve or heliotrope 'undies,' though best of all—and in the most perfect taste—are the fragile garments made of finest handkerchief linen, hand embroidered, and inset with real Valenciennes. Once again, they are showing knickrv.'s with' immensely wide legs; in reality twin petticoats of an ornate description. These garments are elaborately frilled, and some models seem startlingly long. Even in these' rapid days, it takes 'a' little lime for our bswildered eyes to grow accustomed' to complete changes. Yesterday in Paris were knee-length skirts and the tightest of_ tight culottes; . to-day, there are skirts which sweep up dust and aro worn over knickers of early-Victorian outline."

_In London, coloured crepe de chine lingerie is very general, including such shades as rust and emerald ; and the w of |jivd.»attei'»4s_ voile lias, *» *

possible rival, the floridly-patterned Jap. silk.

ATTRACTIVE ODDS AND ENDS,

No matter through what shop or store one wanders, or in which department one lingers, one is surrounded by cheerful colours and colour schemes. Drapers, fancy dealers, stationers, florists, shoemakers—all are doing their share in the movement toward a brighter London, and never has the general display been so enchanting or on such aii extensile scale as. now. Even the small indispensables of life are bright and effectve, and now that the ostrich feather, gaily coloured, has invaded the writing desk there will be no further excuse for the unused or mislaid pen. Coloured quill penholders of eagle feathers still make a very brilliant show, but they are almost commonplace in comparison with their new rivals supplied by the ostrich. This is a very long spine, and with a slightly curled tip, and as for its colouring, there is just everything of which a writer, eager to be surrounded by daintiness, can become possessed. " Those who have already made the purchase say that the ostrich penholder is beautifully balanced, and that it is more comfortable than a wooden or tortoiseshell holder. Very useful is the detachable end, so that either nib or steel quill can be attached. In other holders, too, colours predominate, and the-pen thrust upright into a bed of colouredTSjot looks extremely well as it sparkles through the glass container. Coloured stationery and sealing wax abound; and in both the newest tone to choose is cyclamen pink, with address and telephone number in embossed lettering in a deeper shade of fuchsia. Most envelopes have a,- lining in colour, among which brown and mauve seem to be the dominant notes.

The 6tores wanderer certainly has to stand and gaze at the wonderful attractions and novelties crowded on to the drug counters, where colour schemes vie keenly with one another. There are, for instance, generously proportioned bowls of malachite and of clear and . tinted crystal, with pretty lids; in the colour range one finds jade, orange, mauve, light blue, and lemon. There are powder puff bowls of cut-crystal without a real lid, this duty being apportioned to the doll, with circle after circle of frilly ribbon skirt, attached to the puff, her head •forms the handle, her ballet skirt forms the cover; and the, figure,rises from a foam of soft and- beautiful.ribbon. Grotesque figures ;can do duty, but at present daintiness is the first consideration. A powder puff at the end of a twelveinch stick is new, and ■ one can well imagine how useful it will be to those who want to powder their own shoulders. These puff-holders are wound round and round'with tinsel shot ribbon, and the colour range is very effective. Additional ornamentation is sometimes feasible, and this takes the form of clusters of padded fruits. The cigarette department has been invaded by boxes of various shapes and sizes, covered with- shot taffetas frilled with, gold lace; these are for the modern woman's boudoir or drawing-room, • where their gay appearance is an undoubted \asset. Similarly covered are tins, meant primarily to hold cakes and sweets; ■