THE REALM OF FASHION

Evening Post, Volume CIII, Issue 129, 3 June 1922, Page 14

THE REALM OF FASHION

SOME EARLY TENDENCIES

VARIOUS SLEEVES & WONDERFUL

GLOVES

(FROM OOR OWN CORRESPONDENT.)

LONDON, 21st April.

Sleeves—if they are not conspicuous by their absence—are an interesting study just at present, and everything seems to indicate a season that will be noted for a wide variety in respect to this detail. In marked contrast to the evening dress, which is still left without any sleeve at all, are the smart indoor dresses with generous, arm veilings of floating draperies which finally merge into the skirt. Many of these sleeves .are of filet or darned lace, or of silk georgette, and when they are a colour contrast to the dress the effect is wonderful and distinctly novel. Many a model of black charmeuse or crepe. marocain has floating sleeves of a vivid colour in something semi-transparent, and the same colour is pretty sure to be repeated;in ; the girdle, of flowers or galolith..:;..'.Thus. allied to-black are floatirig"~sle'eves'"6f' a 'beautiful jade,. cerise, iuuhsia, iiame,;or flamingo—indeed, any colour one likesi ■ Gold or silver veined net is good, . tbb",".aAd of course ecru with iblack is always faultless taste. . Even .if this sleeve-drapery is not made to .reach to.the.fiem of the skirt, it is cut .on. generously wide .lines and considerably^ below." th6..naatural length .of.the .arm.-" ->.<- ■■•--• . ->■ '■:■'■

Jfo'r "more, practical - use the wing ,'drapery is not to be recommended, and [in contrast there is the afternoon dress .whose sleeve ends at the elbow where it is .finished with ; graceful frills, while ■many sleeves of blouses and jumpers follow-the line-of-the arm without undue fullness,".aha,iiviSten but'to'"a cuff which comes jyell.syer,.the.back of. the hand. Sensibly -wide sleeves, mostly inset, -characterise anything in the nature of a fcvrap coat, but. the, tailored, sleeve is not quite so wide, .although it is sufficiently ('spreading, to allow of long snede gloves. ■/Transparent sleeves are always attractive and, smart, even-when theyare not ja colour contrast, and one sees many {dresses of foulard, taffetas,;, crepe, and tzenana'' cloth : which have; self-toned •sleeves of georgette or ninon, often ;banded into a cuff, at' th'ewrist. Day jfrocks of organdi' muslin will probably ioften be made with a small puff sleeve Jbarely .more than, covering the. topjof jthe arm, but the time for organdi is not jyet ripe.- Extremely long sleeves are •often- accompanied -by exceedingly high collarbands, cut with points reaching to ■,the ears. A note from Paris announces ihat the skirt hem of uneven length has fciv^n inspiration for the odd (sleeve; On^ some very new French frocks one eleeve is entirely dispensed with, -so that orii arm is left bare from sh-6tilderv..t<>: (wrist, the other arm being: completely covered. These models are as yet'.ex-. ceptional, but are finding a certain amount of favour in Paris, - since they tear the hallmark of some of the best .Hressmakers..; , ■■■..'.■■•,,':■■'. ] :: JAZZ GLOyES.-J^;^^ With' a dress or suit of navy, tan, or pearl, grey gloves are recomended; (while white gloves are the approved (wear with'black dresses. Gloves are k [wonderful study, for their elaboration is marvellous; indeed,' somewhat, bizarre. The gauntlet wrists am a study in forked lightning lines of white on black, or bkiik on white, or else they are veritable chessboards in squares of white and black, or white with scarlet —for this gay. hne has invaded the glove department. Scarlet with black rings, tfie change, and; when time has worked its mellowing influence the vermilion decorative gloves will be approved with suits of navy or black. Some gauntlet gloves of white have a .black embroidery round the' wrist, giving a bracelet impression, artd gloves of black may be similarly elaborated by decorative stitchery of white or colour.'. Very, wide gauntlets have a lacing outside the wrist, with knotted silk ends and tassels pendant*' people welcome the intro•'duction of the long white evening glove soi; washing doeskin, and it is good to be .assured that many of the pearl-grey day gloves are also of washable skins. !GJoves, at the moment, account for an imposing and unexampled display, and there are many of the fabric variety so (well cut and made, and of such excellent quality, that it needs close inspection to ■decide that they are not skin, and every opportunity is taken to vary.. their de;eisn. Good gloves still-command good, (prices. -«', •.. ■ v . ) :. AN IMPORTANT i)ETAIL,. "'■■.■ -Indispensable is a girdle. This detail iof: dress has a department of its own in all the big shops, and the massed colour effects are very alluring, whether the girdles be of flowers or of galolith, or of eequins, steel, beads, or bugles. Very bow are the girdles made of/gololith, cut On.', all lands of fantastic chunks/linked |up, with silver or steel. A French girdle >which wa-s a fascinating thing to gaze [upon was made of mother-of-pearl plaques held together.by, silver cords,, two.. Bong silver tassels-with mother-of-pearl itops falling at one side. It was sufficiently heavy to make the dress fall in rlstraight lines, and very (Jecorative, (while a distinct novelty recently seen twas a dinner-frock of purple crepe with 'Ja, wide girdle made of crystal tubes in,. (the cyclamen shades, ranging from dark ito'light: The dress itself was richly embroidered with crystal beads. Girdles land" baits made of moonlight bugles are jverY; attractive, but as bugles take every opportunity of cutting the threads that link'them together, their possession may joqt^be an unmixed joy, delightful though jtheir scintillations are to see. Instead cfysash or belt, many evening .frocks IhaKß simply a, thin rope,..of. beads.,.,or fougJes tied in a loose bow or knot at the Bide, and falling in two long ends finishled .; with tassels. Paillettes, beads, ibugles, and very novel galolith embroidleries vie tremendously with one another. iGaldlith, looking like ivory if it,'is nvljite—but it is generally coloured—is feewp like sequins to the dress that, it fcidoims, and lends itself to the,- most ichafcmihpr patterns, the effect of .which * is; joften heightened by darnings of dull or ibright eire silk. There are floral waist garnitures, too, made of heavily padded flowers or fruit of ninon, taffetas, or jtulley representing roses or chfysaiithe9nums; these are generally reserved for the- evening. Novelty flowers triads tbj simulate chrysanthemums, composed .of. (little bunches of bebc ribbon, are-to/be-Been adorning some of *■ the .prettiest "■"Miry" blue crepe de chine drty dresses (that the big Parisian dressmakers . are turning ont. Girdles of the new raffiaBowers, tiiat end in long trail* that drop

down o::ie eide, are being worn with ■plain black velvet chemise frocks. Some iwide.ribbon waist belts are finished with clusters of padded fruits as an ornamental finish.' For day wear, there are very wide ;belts made of coloured patent leather, so pliable that it forms soft folds when worn. But newer are the daytime belts of leather painted with designs of fruit land cut out according to its outline. Both these varieties are intended to 'brighten up the simple coat frock. THF, CAPE SUIT. 'A Parisian, edict is to the effect that even the popular coat-frock has to give way to the necessary three-piece costume, which is the cleverest interpretation of the newest tailleurs. It is, too, the ideal fashion for spring on these many chilly days when we cannot dispense with the extra coat or cape. Smart are the three-pieced toilettes that reveal the cape-coat. A new suit, shown by Lucille, in Paris, depicted a fine mastic gabcord, piped with a narrow line of black satin. The coat, which fastened with a wide belt of its own fabric round the hips, was inclined to "pouch." The back of this garment . formed a short coaching cape; the. rather wide sleeves and the straight, long-waisted corsage beneath were in thick satin of the same shade, with connecting bands of the gabcord, with its tiny piping of black satin. The ..corsage was worn attached to a gabcord skirt, cut on slim lines, with a tiny edge of the black down each side. ' Another Parisian "tailleur" proved a very -novel and chic combination. A walking skirt of brown covertcoating was joined to a long-waisted blouse of checked brown and white taffeta. The covert-coating fabric was taken up as a plain pleat or strip in the front, Which buttoned closely to the neck. A very attractive turnover collar was fastened with cords ot royal blue and orange. The sleeves were of silk, and were- cut fairly wide, finished with bands of the cloth. Over this was a short tailor coat of covert-coating, Moused and stitched with a double band fever the hip. This uncommon model was completed by a youthful capote of swathed brown crinoline, with two white quills.. ■ '■''.'■.