GARDENING NOTES

Evening Post, Volume XCIX, Issue 9, 10 January 1920, Page 11

GARDENING NOTES

(By "Experience.")

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN,

' Things to sow: Peas, , Frenoh beans, turnip, carrot, spinach, lettuce, radish., To plant: Broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, celery, leeks, lettuce. Peas of a. true dwarf variety may be sown at once; this should be the last sowing this season. Peas are about one hundred days at least to come into use, so that it will be well into April before those sown now will be fit to gather; a. tall kind would bo longer coming in, and the weather would be too cold for them to pod. A true dwarf only can be of any use—such kinds as Richard Seddon, Little Marvel, and English and American Wonder. Carrots are frequently sown up to the middle of February. They make but small roots, and are useful for two reasons only. A good many people prefer the delicate flavour of young roots to the stronger flavour of matured roots, or there may bo a shortage in tho_ crops sown. Except for these reasons .it is hardly worth while to sow now, as those sown at thi3 time do not lengthen the season to any appreciable extent, as they go to seed in spring at practically the same time as the main crop. Planting broccoli and cauliflowers should be completed as soon as possible, or they will not do much good. Leeks take a good time to grow; if planting is delayed much longer they will make very little growth in time to be useful. It is not necessary to make trenches for leeks; they do quite well without, and trenches are a great waste of space. Draw a good deep drill, as though for sowing peas, and plant in the bottom of the drill. The plants should be set with a dibber; make the hole deep, and let the plant well down, then lift it a little so as to straighten the roots. Close the hole up tight, being careful to firm the soil about the roots. A mixture of superphosphate and bonedust may be sprinkled along the drill before planting. Some of it will work down among the roots; about an ounce to each running yard will bo sufficient, provided the soil has had fertiliser of some kind when it wia dug; if not the quantity should be doubled. At the present time very few gardeners can get stable manure; this makes necessary a great change in methods. Given plenty of stable manure and lime there is no real necessity for any other fertiliser, except for special purposes, e.g., for the production of extra fine specimens for shows, etc. Stable manure contains most of the elements required for plant growth in its fresh state; there is excess of some elements for some plants. Root crops such as carrots, parsnips, and beet do badly in soil freshly manured with «tabl« manure, but succeed admirably the season following after si crop such as peas or any of the brassicas has been, taken from it. This shows that to get best results different fertilisers: must bo used for crops that greatly differ in character. Blood and bone is appropriate for green crops, and may be used in addition to basic slag or superphosphate. It is . not good for carrots and parsnips. The more nitrogen there is in the fertiliser the more the vegetative part of a plant is encouraged. Thus, nitrate of soda delays maturity because it encourages vegetative growth. For this reason it would be quite wrong to give nitrate of soda to onions at the present time, because they should be coming towards maturity, and the nitrate would set up Tiew growth. It would, however, be excellent for leeks which are just starting, and for all the brassicas that have been recently planted, as well as for those that are half-grown. Superphosphates and similar fertilisers hasten maturity, so also does sulphate of potash. They have also other functions in the building up of plants, and are indispensable, but require in some cases {e.g., crops like cauliflowers that cannot produce good heads unless they make considerable vegetative growth) the assistance of a nitrogenous fertiliser. Sulphate of ammonia supplies this if applied when the crop is planted, but, being slow in action, i 3 not so useful as a quick aid as is nitrate of soda, which is quickly available. A- timely application of this nitrate very often prevents the failure of a crop, or ensures excellent in place of mediocre results. It_ should be understood that, because nitrate of soda is so potent in its effects, it must not be used frequently, noi in excess amount, a mistake that would be likely to cause a rank, flabby growth. One application is excellent for lettuces, several applications would prevent their hearting. Most of the current garden literature contains advice on the use of fertilisers, often —mostly, in fact—very misleading, because if pre-supposes that stable or farmyard manure has been used.' The best authorities advise,not to give nitrate of soda to peas and beans, but neglect to say they get all the nitrogen they want from the manure.'; It is a. positive fact that the nitrate is excellent for peas, when they do not get stable manure. The quantity of nitrate of soda to use is half to, threequarters of an ounce per square yard. In the case of young plants, it should be placed close around them; there is no need to bury it, though it is as well to hoe it in, and the moist soil will soon dissolve it. . ' I

Rhubarb.—ln cottage gardens this is a much-abused plant. Examples of bad treatment are constantly under my notice. IE the nature of the plant weTe understood it ' would be realised that it js necessary for the autumn crop to be left to die down on the plant if good stalks are wanted in spring. If the autumn crop is taken there will be no spring crop. Where the orop was taken last autumn the growth is just now becoming strong after a barren spring. If the stalks aro allowed to Temain there will be a good crop next spring, not otherwise. It is the spring crop that is valuable, and the wisest course would be to allow the present crop to remain..

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

The season is a backward one in these parts, and a good deal of planting still remains to be dona. The Tecent rains have been favourable to the establishment of recently-planted stuff, and assists late planting. AH box-raised annuals Bhould be got out at once, or the plants will be too late to do much good. Belladonna lilies are beneath the surface at th» present time, so also are nerines, but neither will remain long out of sight; they should be- lifted and planted again at once if moving them is desired. Carnation layering may be commenced as soon as convenient ; the earlier the layering is done the stronger the young, plants will be for next season's flowering". At this time there is usually little being done in the way of seed-sowing or propagating, and opportunity 6hould be taken to sow seed of any perennial plants required. Many people with small means could raise seedlings easily at the present time that might be difficult when the weather is less warm. A box stood in a sheltered spot and covered with a sheet of glass would raiso most plants. Primroses and polyanthus could be sown now, and would probably flower in the spring, provided pricking off is attended to promptly. Columbines, delphiniums, geum, gaillardias, and all similar. plants can bo raised now, as well as hard-wood plants of all descriptions.

THE GREENHOUSE.

Chrysanthemums should be finally potted ■at once. Before repotting be sure to give the plants a good watering, so that the ball of soil will be moist throughout. The compost for potting should be good fibry loam, with a fourth part of well-decayed manure, sand sufficient to keep the compost open, a six-inch potful of bonedust to a barrow loa/d of soil, and just a- dash of soot. Potting must be firmly done, ramming the compost firm with a. bluntended stick. No watering should be done for several days, so as to let the roots Brst take hold of the new soil. Cinerarias should be grown as cool as possible; it is necessary to shade the plants from the eun, and frequently very littl© air can bo given during the day because of the heat, but as Boon as the suij is off the frames the lights should be thrown off, so as to fully expose the plants to the air.