GARDENING NOTES

Evening Post, Volume XCIV, Issue 48, 25 August 1917, Page 10

GARDENING NOTES

(By "Experience.")

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

Now that it is becoming difficult to get stable manure, tho uso of artifioials must nooeßsarUy bo extended. Although scientifically those fertilisers provido ail that 1 is wanted for plant growth, that is except humus, and what tho atmosphero gives, they havo tho fault of containing a certain amount of acid; an excoss of acid in tho soil is harmful and to it is traceable tho club root trouble of cabbages, etc. Club root is a most troublesome disease to got rid of, but it is not hard to avoid it. Lime neutralises acids and should be freely used. Scientific authorities make pronouncements about tho use of limo that may well bo disregarded in so far as this. Lime may be 'g-ivon at a time- when it will not benefit a crop. It only slowly becomes available for plant use, or the plant 3 may not require it as limo. It is safest to continue its uso, wanted or not wanted, as it is best to bo on the safe side. I havo never yet seen tho gardon that is not infested with slugs or snails, the free use of lime in destroying these pests will also keep tho soil right. I have not seen club root in any garden where it is constantly done. THE FLOWER GARDEN. The climate 01 iNew liunlnuti is a. particularly kind tor gardening, iixcept) in tue lar bouth extreme cold is unknown, and except in certain localities, rairiiail is usually liberal. Many 01 tno duuculties gardeners have to contend witii in the tar oouui are aoseiit in tue iNoron isiaud. Various circumstances apart troni climate att'oco limited areas, and bring about conditions that vary very materially in places j not far apart. As the country gets older I conditions will no doubt be more equal. At present theso varying conditions rendur it quite impossible to state a timo implanting or sowing that will suit all places. Lack of drainage affects some j parts, and puts the calendar back for weeks. It is quito useless to set. plants out in water-logged soil, or at least not until the soil gets warm, a state that is not readhed very early, as the sun haa not sufficient power. 'A'epell.of dry weathor allows the water to filter away, and increasing sun-power Boon warms it. Plants may then be" set out, and even if too much rain follows the planting it is not . likely to bo injurious because- of warmer ■. conditions. Late planting is not in general to be considered advantageous, but it may be best in the circumstances described, and be attended by.perfect success. In mo6t cases where planting is' delayed for the reason stated, there is a ' compensating . benefit later on —that is, long days of uninterrupted sunshine bring ! plants on at a rapid rate. .. Such places I have groat . potentialities for plant I growth; they only await' draining, i Though in most localities if is now getI ting: late for planting, in the places dej scribed it is about time to begin. j In suburban Wellington the wet spring will have delayed work; it should be . pushed on a-s soon as possible. It is a j good plan to secure tho plants early, , even though it may not bo possible to plant. Plants heeled in a nice plot of soil make now roots, and they scarcely feel the shift when taken up arid transferred at onco to .their permanent positions, even though it be late. Even roses may be so treated. I have several dozens of rose bushes myself that are heeled in and starting to grow; they will not be planted, for two or three weeks. The I ground is not broken up yet, but I have I no fear but they will do well enough, i Theso-pln'nts havo been p&rtiallj pruned only. , The upper buds are breakin.tr; when planted out they will bn shortened to dormant buds: the only difference will be Bint tnev will be a bit late. If the plants hnd been pruned down to the buds wanted these would now be Rrowine, and the lnie shift would result in many of the shoots dyinir bn-ok. nnd s^ bo a cher-k, On the. oHior hand, if no pruning had been d^np it. would mmt likolv bo diflVtilt to pit the lower buds to break, as the higher growth would have 6tarv&d them. „ GENERAL DIRECTIONS. ' Planting should be extensive in other . directions. Carnations should soon be out, and soft wood plants of almost every kind, . pentstemons.^aillardias, phlox of perennial . species, franooa ramosa, hcuohera, and hosts of similar plants. Anchusa italic? . is a handsome plant with rich blue flowers similar in form to myostis, but larger; it does well in semi-shaded places. Seed sowingl must receive attention, it should be a busy time in that department, as all . half-hardy plant seeds should be sown un- . der glass, inoluding cosmeaa, of which the Lady Lennox varieties should not be omitted, and asters of all kinds. While speaking of asters it may be well to mention a trouble that is becojm'ng rather prevalent, viz., the sudden dying of vigorous healthy looking plants. The reason for this is still a matter of doubt, and some speculation, but the latest opinion is that it is duo to some deficiency in the soil, and kainit is suggested as the remedy; tenweek stocks, annual phlox, and similar subjects. Canterbury bells make a fine showing in the garden, and are excellent for cutting. In open ground all quite hardy flowering plants may bo sown as soon as the soil is ready. Annuals are particularly valuable because at little cost r one may have a large number of beautiful I flowers. HEDGE PLANTING. Hedge planting is an important undertaking, particularly in suburban districts. 'Ihe largo number of species to select from often makes decision difficult as to what to'plant. Hurried preparations frequently result in failure. When, a narrow strip is dug up it speedily becomes parched up in. dry weather; no plant will succeed unless its roots have a fairly good run. When' a small place is being laid out the wholo of the area should be trenched if possible. It is not possible in many cases, tho ground being too steep. It is always best to do bo if possible; even the sifco of the' paths should bo trenched, a sufficient depth of the top soil being afterwards removed to make room for metal and gravel. When this is done, rain permeates through the whole of tho garden, and tho_ 6oil' holds moisture longer, besides giving a better root-run to plants. The Golden Ake Ako (Oloaria Forsteri) should not be planted" in a dry place; give it fair soil and a good root-run and a. moderate amount of moisture, and it will make a fine hodgo, not otherwise. The largeleaved laurestinus (Viburnum lucidum) is a hotter doer, and nothing of quick growth makes a better hedge or conforms more to varying conditions of soil and climate, unless it be tho eleagnus, which is unfailing, but has the disadvantage of requiring a greater breadth of space than is at all times convenient, and also requires a, good d&al of attention to keep it neat. Other first-class hedge plants to be recommended are euonymus, privit, esoallonia, pittosporum eemifolia for dry places, and ■ pittosporum crassifolium for very windy places, particularly near the sea, where also the taupata does well. Yew and holly make unsurpassable hedges where, tho soil is fairly good, but are not generally favoured on account of slowness of growth for tho first fow years.

"Potatoes and Root Crops," by H. H. Thomas, is tho title of a small book, published by' Catsells, London, which is bound to interest amateur ga-rdPners, because, in addition to printed directions in> simple language, there aro c number of helpful pictures illustrating different operations referred to in the text. In gardening it is very important to know exactly what is right, as a little mistake often leads to great The little books of tho sonos of which this is one are valuable because of their simplicity. Although some of tho directions are not applicablel to New Zealand conditions, yet the general principles a,ro the same every where.