LADIES' COLUMN FASHION NOTES

Evening Post, Volume XC, Issue 92, 16 October 1915, Page 11

LADIES' COLUMN FASHION NOTES

An Australian writer gives some notes, gathered mostly from Paris, where it seems possible that "freakish" styles are creeping in. This seems strange, as the French women are doing such splendid national work that they might be expected to keep their garments in tune with the times. "With fearless originality autumn fashions were launched in Paris a few weeks ago. While the men are away making history for France, the women are doing all in their power to keep matters going something as they were when things were normal. A most important feature of the display, or 'openings,' as they are called, is that every well-known dress-designer who had a prominent place in the fashion world before the war took part in the inauguration. Doncet, Paquin, Worth, Beer, Armand, Lauvin, Premet, Georgette, Jenny Arnold, Bugenet, and other costumiers were to the fore. All the secrets of the different houses had been jealously guarded, in order to keep novelties to the 'one house,' and that alone. Something distinct from anything belonging to other seasons was seen. The general silhouette was short, full skirt, quite often not below the calves, bulging sleeves, flaring coat basques, collars as high as possible, and hats equally high. " "Most remarkable of all that was displayed was the new style of corset, that was quite a revelation. In a sense it showed a fitted waist-line. Its most radical change, however, was the al--most, and, in some cases entire, boneless finish, support being given by a series of corded stitchings. This absence of bones is said to ensure more pretentions to fit, and more possible means of procuring curves and\ ease. The only steel in nearly every corset was the busks, flexible affairs, quite out of the ordinary. "All skirts were bootrtop length, and were very wide, and a great many were hem-corded. Even with the fullness the straight effect was maintained. Most curious was the quite often broad band to the hem, of some bright-coloured cloth, stitched at both sides. And when it is said bright-coloured cloth it is well to make quite plain the meaning, for such brilliant colours as orange, emerald green, and pronounced " scarlet were used. This brighter glow on matters of fashion and dress generally seems to suggest more cheery times ahead. Time alone will show "The sleeve and the collar provided some surprises. In the former the oldtime leg-o'-mutton shape appeared set in many coats that had shoulder seams, which dropped quite three or four inches. Excellent effects were also procured by the bishop sleeve, with tight wristband and pleated frill. As for collars, some quite enveloped the head, so that the modists presumably anticipate a very cold winter. In fact, all the .fair clients at the openings were told, 'Madame, the higher you can wear your collar, the more fashionable you will be.' For. otherwise used sparingly, always formed these collars, wherever suitable and in keeping. And it was also noticeable that furs in dull, soft shades of grey were given preference. "A most conspicuous part was played by black velvet, varied by some coloured velvets of beautiful quality. Taffeta and tulle were worked into 'gallant' looking frocks, and a great deal of black trimmed with jet was prepared for young people. Nearly all the displays were faithful to serge and cloth, and in both a shade of marine blue held a very prominent place. These contrasted sharply with the colour splashes of vivid hues used in dozens of ways from forming the embroidery only on the buttons, to sashes, footbands, sleeves, and collars. "Those behind the scenes are confident the little hat is no more. For next autumn and winter the higher the crown the smarter the shape. Brim flare, and are wide accordingly. Those croakers who would have that velvet would be an unknown quality through the war were quite wrong. Velvet for hats at the openings abounded, and so did velvet panne. In all shades of plum hats of velvet were quite lost count of, they were so numerous. The witch's hat was the shape mostly seen. As far as the brim was concerned, it was distinctly that associated with the witch's headgear. ' The crown, _ although quite as high, was not so pointed, and took on more of the jam-pot order. Four bands of ribbon were set at intervals round the crown, each clasped with a buckle, while plumes in beautiful colouring were arranged at one side. This description of trimming suggests the general mode adopted, and where the plumes were intended to convey especially beautiful colout effects, grey was mingled with strawberry pink, black with green, purple with turquoise blue, and cream with brown."