LADIES' COLUMN

Evening Post, Volume LXXXVIII, Issue 58, 5 September 1914, Page 11

LADIES' COLUMN

LONDON .FASHION NOTES IN THE WORLD OF DRESS. ANNUAL CLEARANCES. A DULL INTERVAL. (FROM OUR OWN CORRESPONDENT.) LONDON, 24th July. "GOING NORTH." This phrase conjures up pictures of moors and shooting, of golf and fißhnig — in short, of sport in nearly all forms. And suitable clothes have to be provided. In town the oape costume has been taking the place of coat and skirt; in the country the latter will be reinstated. Materials include a new fabric, a species of fine covert cloth,- specially adapted for costume wear. There is a light Welsh hand-loomec homespun. The Harris tweeds have never seemed so attractive as they are at the moment, while a Shetland tweed known as the Walton is something entirely novel; it is light in weight, peculiarly soft, and pleasant to feel, woven by hand with the object of resisting wear and weather. There is still another material, calledthe "Atlantic Wave," the name being derived from the cut stripe that wends its way in a graoeful wave over the surface; it is specially attractive for the sports coat. There is a ranee of "Lovat" colourings in the covert cloth, of peculiar richness and softness. The "Atlantic Wave" is shown in rich nut-brown, dark tete-de-negre, soft beige, these being suited to thecoat and skirt; in warm beetroot, japonica pink, old rose, bottle green, deep orange, tango yellow, violet, petunia, and sundry becoming shades of blue — all these are suited to the sports coat. SOME FEATURES. One tailored suit has a full skirled basque to the coat, and shows a new long line in combined collar and revers, reaching nearly to the waist; another has its jacket cut on Norfolk lilies, which accommodates two large "concertina" pockets. Another suit has the coat brought fairly close into the figure by a belt; another model has fulness inlet at the sides of the skirt ( so that, while there is a r wide flare at the foot, theslim silhouette is retained. Pleated overskirta are seen in cloth and serge, and though they do inevitably make the waist and hips look thick, this drawback can be_ somewhat mitigated by having the pleats firmly stitched down, each pleat separately, from waist to hips. THE HOLIDAY HAT. Something that will stick on is the first consideration, therefore a hat that almost buries tho head has first choice. It is of fine felt in whito, banded with black or colour, or it is in soft Austrian velours in sorno pretty tone lined beneath the brim with fine straw in contrasting colour and banded with ribbon to match this brimlining. A simple little shape, suitable for travelling, ie made 'of very soft pedal straw, with a flat Tam-o'-Shanter crown in navy straw, lined beneath with white tag-el a,n6 trimmed on one side, under the brim, with si perfectly flat straight bow of ceriso ribbon velvet, placed in such a way that it rcßt-8 becomingly on the hair. Becoming and not too elaborate are the white felt shapes, low of crown and soft of brim, trimmed round tho crown with a wreath of black velvet begonias, each flower being an inch distant from its neighbour. Or instead of the flowers a band of ribbon velvet looks well, chosen in tome bright colour— possibly to match the sports coat — and first draped round the crown, then tied at the bsuck with a wide bow that stretches across the brim from sido to side. Quite new in colour alliance is an Austrian velours hat,' round in shape with brim that can be bent about at pleasure, of a lovely shade of lime, lined with fino straw of a deep plum colour ; there/is twisted round it a scarf of erepo ninon in lime colour, worked with tiny littlo prim bunches of rosebud* in pink, while* purple spots appear at intervals. This scarf is pawed through a buckle covered with plum-coloured silk. Altogether it is distinctly smart, yet simple as possible. Snow-white felt is another hat, its brim lining being of a soft china blue tagel, its trimming consisting of a band of moire ribbon of similar blue tied in a flat bow at ono side. AN IMPERATIVE NECESSITY. The knock-about hat and the undress hat can be of velours or 6traw or muslin or silk, or of anything olse". But the "best" hat must bo of black velvet, and it must be a wide-brimmed canotier. Black velvet is the material that milliners are using for their smartest hats, the quality, of course, being of the lightest and most silky tcxtiue, co that weight is practically nil. Little trimming is required. Thoroughly French will be the broad band of black Ottoman ribbon round the crown, and perhaps a largo flat flower in velvet at one eide. WHITE OVER BLACK. This requires some getting used to. It is late Parisian, therefore it will be the vogue. Blaok satin is th« usual foundation, white lace i 6 the overdress, forming a long tunic, and one that flows easily on top of an underskirt of tho black that is still restricted about the ankles Whito Chantijly laoe in this respect has a rival in a wide ivory white laoe flounce traced over with silver threads. There is not a groat deal of the black about tho bodice, but the -waistbelt of it is necessary to make the effect complete; as for the rest it is chiefly of transparency The correct thing to woar over a dr«ss of thi6 description is a long cape of black Chantilly mounted on the thinnest of white pougee, bordeied all round with ermine. There may bo two or three flounces of Chantilly lac© to form the overskirt of the black 6atin, and the corsage may be formed, of broad 6atin ribbon in the form of wide bretelles edged with iace flouncing 6o deep as to take the place of sleeves.