LADIES' COLUMN.

Evening Post, Volume LXXXVI, Issue 59, 6 September 1913, Page 11

LADIES' COLUMN.

London Hctshion Notts. IN, THE FAR-DISTANT FUTURE. • (From Our Own Correspondent.) LONDON, 25th July. It is no use calling out for pockets, because we shall not be allowed to hay© them. No skirts are made with anything resembling a pocket, and the designers of women's gowne-Hnany of whom, of course, aro men — have decided that some variety of bag will carry everything that a woman can need, and that pockets aro totally unnecessary. Hence every other woman one meets is carrying one of the latest receptacles^ — the bag that has no handle, but is provided \ behind with a strap through which the -hand ■is thrust, and the orthodox way bt carrying it is ,for one end to rest in .the sidfe-hip, the other projecting above the wrist. Most of these new bags' have a watch inset, and the time can be seen without any trouble. ' Just here and there a 1 tailor-made 6uit can be discovered with one tiny pocket on each side of the hipe, aad of course plenty of tailor-mades have a ,tiny breast pocket. But none of these is intended for anything" more bulky than one of the very tiny coloured fancy handkerohiefs; its mission is primarily for ornament, not for use. There are some very simple morning blouses, too, finished with a small breast pocket, again for the accommodation of a small handkerchief, one corner of which is^ sure to be carefully displayed, but nothing else can be stowed away. None but' a very bold woman would have the courage _to demand a pocket in her dress, especially after the edict having gone forth that there is less chance than ever of the pocket coming into use again. "For town wear," it is noted, "pockets are 'distinctly banned. No well-dressed woman would think of having one, and there is no necessity either, because fashion has come to the rescue in another way— namely, the general use of the bag. _ The only pockets being made now, or likely to be, are for tweed dresses for country _ wear 1 . They are being made not only in the coats— one on either side — but also on the righthand side of the skirt and well towards the front. They are called^ 'patch' pockots.'l The knitted coats which people are wearing about town, despite the fact that they were primarily intended for sports and for the seaside, are provided with hip pockets, and hands aro often thrust into these in such a- way_ as to drag them_ out of shape. There is quite an epidemic of the knitted coat, whether of wool or of silk, or of one of the nume- | rous vegetable matters, with fancy names, all of them suggesting the presence of silk. Some are of self-colour, many are in stripes of colour and white. "The majority of the hues worn are distinctly brilliant, and can be seen a long way off, sometimes with charmingly picturesque effect, but often just the reverse,. There is a mad craze for a vivid mustard yellow, a colour which is ugly, and which is not at all becoming to anyone. On the other hand there is a strikingly brilliant geranium pink whioh is quito attractive, even though' it is visible in the far* distance^ long before the identity of the wearer is discernible. All theso coats have caps to match, and sometimes there is a scarf as well, the three being sold as a set. Everyone who is going to the seaside is provided with a coat and cap, and the silk knitted jacket 6n top^ of a muslin or sponge-cloth dress is quite the recognised thing, the jacket being fastened down the front and being finished' round the neck with a email turned-over collar of embroidered lawn. ' FOR THE SEASIDE. Given really summerliko weather, th» seaside ' resorts ought to be attractive places this year from, the dress point of view, for possibilities of the picturesque are_ infinite at small, cost. The sale period has provided much that can be turned ttvo v good account by ' clever home workers,' and the styles are very simple. It is in the judicious association of odd materials and contrasting colours that go much depends, and there ie quite a- cult this season for both. The fashion, however, presents numerous pitfalls for tho uninitiated, and for thO6e who do not possess a vast amount of good taste. ' For tho odd coat there is an immense demand, and according to tho occasion, so. the materials. For garden-party Wear the coatee -must be of silk or chine brocade, worn over drewes. of ninon or mousßcline or embroidered lawn or charmeuse. For smart morning wear nothing can be more stylish than a, little coat made of sponge cloth of some bright colour — cerise is quite a favourite shade, so is pale ,pink as well as light blue. And much of the sponge-cloth carries a raised brocade pattern into which white enters. The drees to be worn under this will very_ likely be of white cropon, or white voile or white serge. The B_kirt will be made simply, possibly with slight draping at the foot ; the coat may be of thesimplest imaginable^ or it may be elaborate, fitted with an inner, waistcoat of another colour, and finished with broad revere of heavy, maorame lace, frills of pleated tulle finishing the waistcoat and standing upright at the back of the neck, also falling over the , wrists. This same idea can be worked upon over and over again, »nd fresh effects |can be obtained with little trouble and at small cost. For the afternoon, while Shantung will bo very suitable for the dress, or at any rate for the skirt; and the coatee can be of ,white Charmeusa with dainty waistcoat of small-sprigged Pompadour silk, the lining to be of one of 'the colours prominent in the Pompadour pattern. Some of the coats require a folded belt, some are complete withouf; it. Some of the coats have rounded bolero fronts and are not long anywhere ; others are of tho cut-away paitern, with eoat*tail backs, and some of them are made on Directoire lineß. Anyone clever at finding lengths of pretty silk can ute them up to excellent effect while the fashion for the odd coatee lasts, and there are no indications that its existence will be ephemeral. Toilettes ase being prepared for Goodwood, tfnd numerous instances might bo mentioned <>£ the models having fancy coats of different colour and material from the dres© beneath, and in the case of the dress, while most of it will bo of charmeuee or of ninon over soft silk, tho corsage will ( etill ]be as transparent as j possible, and consist largely of fine lace and finely-meshed net. Over-dressos of printed tulle, the silk or satin coatee is ?uito the thing, and the splendid eathers that encircle the hat _ or the I beautiful flowers which the milliners use to good effect, will repeat tho colouring of the coat. Some of ■ the Goodwood models, by> tho way,' are trimmed with fur — it seems early for peltry, but there it is, and because it is out of season it is likely to be in request ; because, too, hats of beaver velours are out of season, they are demanded by the people going to the seaside, especially in white, banded with a piece of velvet of very gay colour. And another piece of extravagance in this luxurious era is the use of chiffon for the lining of the fanciful coat, and not always for that alone, for the outside o£ a domi-tailorod suit was of white towell ' ing of heavy woi^ht, and its lining was of chiffon. Chifron linings aro never durable, and they are inexcusable except on tho score of dainty effect in thecaso of really light coatees; a chiffon lining to a towelling suit is ridiculous and out of place. It is reported i that three types of dresses will be noticeable at the fashionable French seaside resorts. These dresses are either in embroidered lawn or Madeira, work, with a broad ribbon tied at the waist. One alternative is the dross of white tulle over a narrow white satin skirt, with a ooloured ribbon tied beneath the tulle. The other alternative has a skirt of black satin, with a black or white laco tunio transparent upon the shoulders and arms. With each a black hat will bo orthodox. The newrst has the crown of chenille woven in a wide net-like meeh, set 'into a brim of wide traneoarenb tulle, banded with velvet and having one tall flower standing on guard at the back. If the 'flower is absent, a cluster of wired lace butterflies will be present hovering high in the air supported by a long pin, which is wound round and round with silk. These butterflies are quito * realistically formed, and are quite impressive even when of Imb j when they are made of

sparkling gom-set tulle and of ooloured Eilkn they are quite realistic. The use of tulle is on the increase, and there are some shapes wholly of it, bloeely gauged, trimmed with a wondrous erection of wide aeroplane loops behind, from among 1 whioh tower tall roses, each one on a single 6talk. The effect is topheavy, and one expects euch a. hat to be a deadweight. But it is not; overweighted though it looks, the hat is as 'light as a feather in the hand. There are numerous straw Bhapes veiled loosely with tulle, not nocesearily always black. Some of the Panama shapes look well with the tulle of mouselino of nattier blue, banded with velvet a shade darker, and finished with a rose of bright pink, which has the choice of standing erect or of reeting low down on the brim behind and projecting beyond. SCATTERED DESIGNS. There is a curious contrast in the arrangement and size of the designs seen upon voiles and silks. The, close 'all-ovor pattern is still dainty in its effect, and the colour unions are generally pleasing. Thia variety of design is etill much eeen, and t, great deal worn. But those who desire something newer and more noticeable are choosing voiles and silks with a large design very muoh scattered. There is a British- made voile 'with a carnation spray design. The actual size of each flower with foliage is six inches, and only ten of these flowers go to each yard. The design is obtainable on grounds of white or colour, and there are .various colourings in the carnations to select from. On light grounds, too, there Are impressionist patterns of strange roses in caually strange coloured silks; each spray is a long way from its nearest neighbour, and is quite a prim and formal thing. Silk of, this description is used for corsages, for coatees, for evening wraps, and for entire dresses, in the last case more or less veiled. Brit-ish-made voiles are extremely atUetive this thia year; the texture and quality are fine and faultless, the designs are mostly pleasing,' and the colours are fast and pretty, and will stand much washing. k Voile, of course, needs to be ironed, but it does not require any staroh, therefore it is easy to launder. Prettily made with pipings of eilk and fitted with not guimpe and cuffs., voile is a material whioh can bo appropriately worn on even the smartest of occasions.