NGAURUHOE.

Evening Post, Volume LXXXIII, Issue 151, 26 June 1912, Page 17

NGAURUHOE.

OUR ONLY ACTIVE VOLCANOE. Ngauruhoe can easily be thoroughly explored in half a day from the Waihohonu hut, and Tongariro, as far as the Blue Lake, is also within reach of the same base for a day's trip. There is another small mountain hut on the northern slopes of Tongarira, near the Ketetahi Springs. A roughly-defined horse track connects the two huts, which are about fourteen miles apart. To climb Ngauruhoe from the Waihohonu hut, the easiest route is up the south-eastern slope, and the summit can be reached in about three hours. Starting acros6 the first branch of the Waihohonu at the bathing pool, the horse track is followed for about two miles over a low ridge and down to the second branch of the same stream. Here the horso track is left, and a direct line made for Ngauruhoe. Following up the stream for about twenty chains, a pretty little spot is met with, where the whole body of water in the stream bubbles up from under an old lava flow. Climbing over the rough looking boulders, the foot of tho, steep slopes of the volcano are soon encountered. On this side the ridges are all composed of pile 6of broken rock,

giving a good foothold, and the kneetiring scoria is only met with on the last five chains. When the crater is belching forth steam nothing of a view can be got into the depths, but at periods of little activity the wliolo top presents an awesome spectacle. ON THE RIM OF THE CRATER. The summit of Ngauruhoe conaists of an outer ring about 30 chains in diameter, divided roughly into three compartments. There are several Bmali gaps around the outer ring, and a lame one on the north side. From this north gap a fairly level basin runs in a southerly direction, bounded by Bleep rocky slopes on the east about 150 ft high, running up on to the outer rim. This forms the first division. On the west a small circular crater, with a few steam holes at the bottom, forms the second division. In the 6outh-west corner, clo6e against the perpendicular rim of the outer ring, the awful chasm of the active crater forms the third part-. The flat basin continues round to the edge of the acti-e crater, and at periods of inactivity it is possible to walk in and j stand on the edge of this great abyss. There is always a certain, amount of I risk in venturing inside the outer rim, as there is no knowing when the active crater . will belch' forth steam and sulphurous f umee. A safer place to view the active crater from is a large rock known as Castle Rock, which stands on ( the outer rim forming a prominent object on the western side. From here there is a perpendicular drop for about 400 ft into the inferno. The summit of Ngauruhoe is constantly changing, and fresh steam holes are discovered or prominent rocks will be missed at every visit. ' ' ' , IN ACTIVE ERUPTION. During Easter, 1909, Ngauruhoo wae in violent eruption for some months, presenting a very fine sight at a distance, belching forth volumes of black smoke for thousands of feet, and covering the country round with a thin layer of ashes which turned to a slimy mud with the first rain. Thie was followed by a period of comparative quietness, and a party "making the trip the following Ea6ter walked right to the edge of the active crater inside. They found great changes on top, and were surprised to come across the body of a wild horse lying close to a large boulder in the (lat basin inside the outer crater rim. How the animal reached the summit is a marvel, as the elopes of Ngauruhoe run almost to 45 degrees, and the soft scoria near the top gives a man a good struggle. There is no doubt that the active crater is gradually wearing away the outer wall on the south-western corner, and in, years to come perhaps there will be a breakaway on that side. Lately, lava has been reported in the active crater, and billows of steam are constantly rising, giving a very picturesque effect as viewed from the Main Trunk line. • ACROSS COUNTRY. Most parties that visit the Waihohonu hut nowadays take rugs and tucker, and spend one night at Ketetahi hut, climbing Ngauruhoe and Tongariro on the way over, and visiting the To Mail blowhole and the blue lake on the return journey. To save carrying the 6wags up Ngauruhoe, the ascent is made from the north side. The horse track is followed from the Waihohonu hut as far as the crossing on the second branch of the Waihohonu stream, and then a beeline is made for the saddle on the north side of Ngauruhoe. There is a steady rise all the way, and by the time the saddle is reached > the party are well up on the slopes of Ngauruhoe. On this side the formation is all loose scoria, with one rocky ridge about 20 chains to the west of the saddle, where an old lava flow runs down from the gap in the outer crater. The 6wage are left in a handy position for picking up again, and a start made up the rocky ridge. Half an hour's steep climbing will see one to the summit. A GLORIOUS PANORAMA. From here f on a clear day a glorious panorama of' Tongariro js obtained. The different craters are spread out like a map, and the route for the afternoon can be schemed out without any trouble. After a scramble right round the outer rim of the crater, a start is made down the scoria elopes at a ' gallop. Giant strides are taken, and the descent accomplished in a few minutes. At Christmas time the little gullies are filled with snow, providing good glissading on the lower slopes. TONGARIRO. j A BURNT-OUT CONE. Swags are picked up and the journey continued over Tongariro. This mountain is a succession of old craters — some flat basins containing shallow lakes during the winter, others permanently filled with blue or green-tinted water, or possessing steam jete puffing out amongst the boulders. The biggest climb from any of the basins to the highest points is only 1000 ft, and almost any route may be followed. The main points of interest are the Red Crater, with its active steam jet, the Green Ponds (Rotopounamu). the Blue Lake, and the Te Mari Crater and Blowhole. A TREMENDOUS AMPHI- ; THEATRE. After leaving the foot of Nganruhoe. the great southern crater is the hret one traversed. This presents the appearance of a tremendous amphitheatre, and the floor in parts is as level as a tennis court. As one climbs up the eastern rim about 500 ft the Red Crater comes into view, a small rocky enclosure with perpendicular sides of dark red scoria. Following round the rim, either on the north or south sides, a short descent is made to the gap where a fairly recent lava flow has pushed its course over the- bed of the central crater. The scoria is I dark black in colour, and is just like the slag from a furnace in a gasworks. STEAM JETS AND VAPOUR BATHS. Hiecing out from a i>flej>f rock* with]

a large expanse of blue water is surrounded by a low rocky rim. On a little point on the north side of \\m lake, some years back, the red-billed seagulls (tarapunga), from Lake Taupo, used to build their nests amongst tho stones close to the waters edge. Ono year the nesth were destroyed by come careless people, and the birds have not since returned. The Te Mari Blowhole, being away down a spur to tho north, is left for the return journey, and a start made down the horse track to the Ketetahi Springe. A VIEW OVER THE SADDLE. As you come through the saddle you oee one of the most pleasing panoramas on the trip. Immediately below, the Rota-aira Lake stands out clear and distinct, the bush around the edge having

pool Jb picked out, dammed up With .stones and the mud scooped out, ftfld The water is highly charged with Mineral matter, and has a very soothing effect on sunburn. ' THE KETETAHI HUT. , Tho Kotetahi Hut is about a mil* below tho springe. Here there i* a two-roomed building, similar to the Waihohonu Hut, except that there is no fireplace, tho cooking being don« in a small dug-out place about a chain away. The hut can be reached from Tokaanu, which is about twenty-four miles distant, nineteen by formed road and tho remaining five miles a horse track up the spur on Tongariro. There is an old horse track between Pihanga and Kakaramea, which shortens the journey considerably.

considerable force is a steam jet, and a short distance below a vapour bath can bo obtained by standing over a spot where tho sulphur fumes exude silently from a stoney basin. Close alongside, the Red Crater aro the Green Ponds, several basine of clear, greenishtinted water nestling amongst tho eiirrounding rocks. Here the horse track is met again for the first time since leaving the Waihohonu Stream. From this point the horse track crosses the central ' crater to the north and passes through a saddle before zigzagging down to the Ketetahi Hut. THE BLUE LAKE AND ITS BIRDS. Betore going on down to the sprin^a, a detour is niado to see the Blue Lake, which occupies the next basin to the east.. A short climb up an easy elopo to the l'im brings it within' sight. Here

a park-like apearance. Beyond this tb* forest-clad mountains of Pihanga and hero thoy lie to their hearts' content. Kakaramea stand out in bold relief, and. further still, the waters of Taupo fade away into the distance. Travelling .straight down the northern Mopes or Tongariro, cutting off the corners of the zigzag horse- track, tho mountaineers hear the higßing of the steam which announces tho proximity of the Ketetahi Springe. In _ a small gully miniature geysers, boiling "pools, and porridge pots form the source of a email hot stream that dashes down the mountain side. The further from the spring* the cooler the water becomes, so that any range of temperature can' be obtained. Very , primitive methods' are adopted by ■ the bathers. A suitable

ON THE WAY HOME. On the way back, on the return journey to the Waihohonu hut, the horsetrack ia followed up past the springs to the zigzag*, and a beeline then made fox the jet of Te Mari, which can be seen puffing away on a high spur across a small gully- The steam comes out from a large crack in the spur, the sides of which are coated with beautiful sulphur crystals. Towards Lake RotoAira a fairly recent lava flow can be traced where it haft cleared a path through the totata bush below. -By following up the spur above Te IVlari, tha Blue Lake is reached, and tho journey continued round, the Tim and down to th« green ponds. From thence the howe track is followed home. This zigzags down a steep slope io th* Otttrere crater ba«in, where it is marked by piled Ktofles at inter v»lb. The f femaifider of the journey is over easy rolling cottfltry right to the hut. tttr BEST TIME FOR THE TBI& best time to visit the mountains ir during, the Christmas holidays, when ilie -weaJhet is fairly settled and the days ate long. Eaeter .time is rathef late tq; be «if c of -th© weather, but the atmosphere i» much clearer and better views can be obtained of the surrounding CoUntfv. A party is very fortunate if fine weather prevails the whole time. Buapelra. is very rarely clear of mist for many days together, although Ngauruhoe and Tongariro are not nearly so bad. ;MANY INTERESTING SCENES. -Around the "Waihohonu hut there are many interesting places thafc^ can be Tisited -when bad -weather prevails on the laKHUjtains. To the south-east of the but about half a mile around the edge of the luish, is *he Ohinepango spring. Here aTgreat volume of beautifully clear water bnbbles up from the foot of a bush-clad terrace, forming a long pool before dashing down across the plains. The whole place reminds one of Hamurana Spring a$ Eotorua on a smaller scale. - SOME MOUNTAIN LAKES. ~Th© Uga-pana-a-tama lakes are also ijtorth. a visit. These are situated hi a direct line between Ruapehu and Ngataubjoe, about five miles from the hut, Mid are reached by following up thw fWaibohonu stream and crossing a low lidge. The smaller lake is the prettier of the two, being surrounded by mountain scrub, which 15 all out in flower at Christmas time. The birch bush around the hut is very pretty, and the mountain meadow on all sides abounds with interesting plants and flowers. -OTHES ROUTES TO BUAPEHU. " Besides the routes mentioned above, flier© are dozens of different spttris by ■vSfhieh Buapehu may be ascended. The Bound Bush, about eight miles north of Kafioi, forms a fine base fof riding riarties. The foufteen-mile stables on the Tokaanu-road is a good point to ascend from via the Wangaehu glacier.. Parties have been up via Eftia, on the" vest, climbing over Hauhurigatabi, ■where glorious views of Btiapehii ate The •WaimarinO side 16 also & favourite with camping parties, beiflg tie prettiest of the lot. Here the open tnssock plains aa-e Intersected milk waring iorrenits of greenish ice -water, and dotted: "uriti. dumpfc of bnsh, * AH INTERESTING COUttfitY. There are several fine waterfaliSi and inmdted» of ideal camping spotfe can he found within easy reach of both Ngaurll. ioe and Euapehu. The whole of the country around' these mountains is ftdl of interest. Close to £a*ioi rail* ay station Ahere is a charming lake jtist Mside it3ie edge of the bush, a cottple of milee The bush comes down id the ■vrater's edge all xotmd and a peep of Buapehtl can. be obtained frotn the e&utheTtt: side, with a perfect teftectidtt as WL Near the Ohakttae railway jsferiaon therd are some curious old cratefs, and farther away tie well-knowfl K«tigataua Jakes attract many visitors. At the Ifead of the Makatote atrfeam ther\M* a magnificent double waterfall tumbling 4o\ra over lava cliffs, which sW a- remarkable columnar structure. All round, -within reach of the spring from the falls, numbers of the large yelloir batterof these days the Tongariro National Park -frill receive its dues, and fee provided with mountain houses similar to those at Mount Egmont and other