LADIES' COLUMN.

Evening Post, Volume LXXXIII, Issue 100, 27 April 1912, Page 11

LADIES' COLUMN.

London fashion JVotegt » A GRADUAL CHANGE. [raou ouk. own cob.bxsfondent.l LONDON, 15th March. ' There is every indication that the kimono sleeve will last all through the year, for dresses of silk and ninon and washing cojttons, blou6es of ninon and silk and muslin are thus made. But its adoption is not compulsory as it was a year ago, and there is a distinct tendency toward the return to favour of the leg-of-mutton sleeve and of the sleeves made to reach the wrist. The kimono cannot conform to the demands of the leg-of-mutton shape, while it is very difficult for it to bb made of wrist length. Some authorities consider that the kimono pattern is dead, but this is hardly bo just yet. Although 60 many people have 'worn it, few have a good word to say about its comfort. It is one of the most hampering patterns of sleeve ever invented, and its long-continued popularity has been rather surprising. At the same time, the majority of the smartest blouses are made in Magyar shape, and those with eeamedin sleeves are apt to look a little dowdy just at present. The long sleeve with soft lace ruffles at the wrist will indeed be a welcome change from the short sleeve that makes no attempt to cover the elbow and leaves exposed all the lower half of the arm; all the winter through the bare arm has looked very unhappy and ugly, for purchasers of the readymade Magyar blouses with abbreviated sleeves have made no attempt to wear lace cuffs to reach the wrist. The long sleeve, finished with a soft ruffle at the wrist, makes the hand appear smaller than it is, whereas a great bare expanse from above the elbow to the hand not only exposes the ugliest part of the arm, but also makes ■■ the hand look much larger than it need look. In numerous cases the Magyar cut of the bodice will be covered by a fichu drapery, or by the taffetas cape which is certainly to be a feature of spring styles. The sensible tailor-made has seamed-in sleeves of moderate dimensions, but the fanciful tailormade often owes its style very largely to the Magyar pattern. We 6hall feel strange at first when we adopt the sleeve which has most of its width and fullness nearer the cuff than the shoulder; in a modified form this once-popular sleeve is showing itseli again, notably in the taffetas tailor-made. OTHER REVIVALS. The jacket bodice is here; it began to appear quietly some months ago, and no one realised that it was coming. More startling, though, is the marked indication of the pomted bodice. In its early specimens it is cut long on the hips, and the- point in front is too long to eet well unless stiffly boned. However, we have not arrived at that stage yet, and it is quite , possible to carry out the idea of the sever© line by avoiding a meeting in the, front; with the all-in-one gown this in quite possible, the bodice with its deep point being placed over the dress just as one would put on a sleeveless coat. Already one or two of the Court gowns have been made with the pointed corsage bodice. It has an old-time appearance, but there are a good many indications of the return of old-time styles. One of the latest skirts, for instance, is trimmed round with a gathered flounce, put on all round just above the knee, and no trimming effects could look more like last century than the flat pleatings and the bouillonnes of taffetas which decorate so many of the dresses and pelerine capes and mantles and fichus. The pelerine cape is itself an ancient relic, and the up-to-date edition, may be made of satin or taffetas or ninon, and there is no need' for it to _ be. of . the same f abrio as the dress, seeing that tho taffetas pelerine is quite suitable to be worn with the mousseline dress, and the pelerine of niuon seems to be quite (satisfactory as a finish to the drees of taffetas. The pelerine of silk reminds one still more of early Victorian styles when it has a border of long silken fringe. Eminently suited to wear with the dress of reversible satin is the pelerine of the same stuff, for the colour contrast provides all that is wanted to introduce the trimming. The pelerine cape knows no restriction of shape. One time it will describe a sharp point back and front, shortening about the arm; another time it will reach just below the hips and there be cut in a square, while deep points appear at eithet side. The fact that it is convertible, too, will help -to popularise the 6pring pelerine ; it is rather a convenience to be able to wear the same thing in two distinct ways, as could be done by one of the latest pelerines shown in Hanover-square. The model viewed was of delicate grey and cerise shot taffetas bordered with fringe and cut with long narrow ends. On one dress it was shown draped over the shoulders, crossed becomingly over the bust, the ends tied tinder the cape at the back and brought round to the side, where they finished in a neat bovr. In its second arrangement it is started as a little apron, the ends being crossed at the back and brought over the shoulders to be tied in front, either on the bu6t or at the waist. The idea is a distinctly olever one, and it will not be long before wo are astonished at the manipulations of the pelerine, just as we have been surprised at the lines and effects obtainable by using scarves and sashes as drapinge. As the ends of the pelerine, in its latter arrangement, passed over the shoulders it made one think of braces, and it called to mind the fact that the brace-like finish to the skirt of tweed and serge and cloth j will not be a rarity when we discard coata. The braced skirt may often look very smart in association with a pretty blouse. Ancient history, too, seems to couae back vividly when we hoar so much about panniers. At present, however, there is seldom any attempt to loop these up into bunchiness; rather is the pannier overdress allowed to fall as it will at either side, there to be gathered into a band of handsome embroidery which makes a finish midway between knee and ankle, leaves room for the display of an underdress, and has the effect of a panel front and back, beginning as a narrow point and widening out to the foot of the skirt. Girls will be glad to hear of the revival of the pinafore corsage. This is v pretty style for a jKoung hgure. It may be sleeveless or it may have sleeves— if the former sleeves and yoke will be in one and will" be of lace or net ; if the latter there will be little underßleevea to correspond with the pointed vest and neckband ; .the point on the pinafore top needs a little edging of embroidery to outline it, while a turned back narrow collar is effective, too. Round the waist therois rather a wide belt, and if the corsage is- in ono with the skirt, it will by degrees taper off into points about tho knees, or have a trimming of embroidery or bouillonne so put on as to suggest tho presence of a double' skirt. No one will go wrong to adopt the pinafore pattern for the tub frock whether of cotton material or of Bhantung silk; there will be no indiscretion either in choosing the style for tho dress of shot taffetas or the one of hairstriped silk. Processions ot buttons, too, are arranged with such generosity and in such manner as to bring vividly to mind many a dress worn by sitters to tho photographer fifty years ago. Some of tho buttons am the simplest _ things possible, being merely covered with silk or satin; pretty, when appropriate, are the woo buttons of mother-of-pearl, each set displaying with special prominence one special colour — it may bo mauve, or blue, or coral pink, or green; the colour always is associated with white, and those buttons, set in closo rows down dress, skirt and blouso, are attractive in their iridescence ; whether as a finish to a fabric of plain col- | our or onp of a shot. _ Shirt blouses of | extreme simplicity, having fronts set in fine pin-tucks, are immediately made smart by tho addition of a close-set row of' these pretty shot pearl buttons. The glass button cut into glittering lacots is seen on the drots and the tailor-made, and it glistens forth from tho costume which is composed largely of the new eponge or towelling material. There are buttons in siies large and small, made of pink rock crystal, lapis-lazuli, various descriptions of jade, horn dyed iv colours

innumerable, and enamel which is always effective. In contrast to all thesß, which are more or less bright in character, aro tho rough-and-ready horny-surfaced buttons made of plaited string. Sets of buttons, about five or seven to a group, decorate seams; larger sizes do duty as fastenings.