LADIES' COLUMN.

Evening Post, Volume LXXXIII, Issue 88, 15 April 1911, Page 11

LADIES' COLUMN.

London I'aahion Notes. (From Our Own Correspondent.) LONDON, 3rd Barch. It ie really rather a pity that the drapers always now make such frightfully early pre-season displays, for, no matter what is to be the season approaching, th© window shows never seem to meet current requirements. At the moment, for instance, the visitor might be led to imagine that summer had come, or at any rate that the spring— and an exceptionally warm one at that — was in its zenith, if they based their conclusions on tho colour and the texture of the materials now displayed, and on the feather-weight shapes made of straw which all the milliners are showing — straws, for the most part, delicate in colour as well as light in weight. They are not likely to be worn during an uncertain March. No one can take any interest at such an early period, when everything outside is changeable and tho goods shown look a trifle out of harmony with the atmospheric surroundings. Ie is true that the month has come in more as the proverbial "lamb" than, as the lookod-for "lion." However, in view of the displays made now, it is my purposo to-day to write something about millinery — I cannot say for immediate needs, but doubtless it will be wauled by Easter, a, a dato annually fixed by every individual woman in every class of society for the display of her new spring tailormade and her new straw hat. SOME CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES. There is p'enty of evidence that large hats have no intention of occupying a secondary position. Crowns that are verj; flat, or else are of medium height, and of all-round roomy dimensions, are eet into brims that will at times hide a good deal of the face — certainly one-half of it (that seems to be their mission), while others will make a fuss if the wearer tries to get through a narrow doorway. Toques, too, usually are very spacioue, and many are strangely shaped, but whether the diameter intends to bury the head or to be more compactly fitting, the crowns seem determined to tower to immense heights. In. proportion, crowns of hats are low seen beside some of the strangely tall toquee, but as if to counteract any squat effect there are wide brims that are turned up straight and high back and front, producing a form of bicorne, and as these brims usually meet on tho top of the middle of the head, it does not matter at all whether there is a crown present or not, becauas it cannot as a rule be seen. Much of the charm of the new hat seems to depend largely upon the curious little indentures given to the brim, or to the jaunty manner in which the fold-back is achieved. For the 6preadLng plateau tfhape, veiy low of crown, and with trimming that is almost non-existent, considerable demand is expected before long. Eut, really, generally speaking, there is no necessity for any woman to wear a shape that does not suit her own etyle, for the license is wide. Probably the effect of novelty is more often imparted by the new kinds of straw used than by any greatly marked change in shapes. So supple are the elraws this season that they can be draped in just the same way as> can ti piece of soft eatin or ribbon; they can be arranged with deep tucks or with wide folds, and they can bo built up into large and spreading butterfly and "windmill" bows, as well as "weathercock" loops. As a consequence of this possible variety of treatment, shapes made of tatiu straw often look as if made of silk or ribbon, and this illusion is intensified because, in. this season when stripes are s>o prominent in most fabrics, we find that a large number of the n«w straws are \ woven in stripes — black and white, blue and white, practically every colour alternating with white, while two or more colours are blended together in stripes varying in width from a quarter to half an inch. New, too, are shot straws, and there are eorne woven in patterns in the carrying out of which several colours are mingled. Straws are of such infinite variety that presently tHere vill not bo found much woven fabric in the millinery departments. Hero and there, of course, as with " tho bicorno shape, the .hat of straws has its brim faced with velvet, and at times the upper part of a hat made of satin will have brim of straw. But these will be rather the exception. In the range of straw there is a bewildering choice— crinoline, Tagal, chip, Dunstablo, ramie, laco-straws, satin-straws, Leghorns, and all of them are at present in use. An effective dash of colour is given to a black D unstable straw by facing deeply its upturned brim with satin-straw in cerise, and as there is a fancy for the blending of black with Royal blue, this dash of brilliance can be added in the same way. Straws are of delicate tones as well as vivid colourings, while there is a fine sno'vwhite variety that will be very acceptable lalei on. Early spring millinery promises a wealth of flowers and gay hues that should mako the rainbow feel eclipsed, and generally speaking the trimmings aro so u/'rangod as to add height to tho wearm-. • One of the shapes most seen at presont_ is turned up on one side, the brim Ivmiik fixed in position by a buckle or a bunch of flowers or a cluster of feathers. There aro turbans, whoso straw is wrapped round and round justi as chiffon were tne fabric being handled, and whose weight is nothing iv spite ot the mountainous heights often attained; so light and so comfortably fitting are many that thf \ use of a hatpin becomes almost unnecossary. Some of the turbans, made to icst on the top of the head and not to bury it at all, are shaped rather shorter behind than in front, and this allows of moderately high hair-dressing, as tho entiro ba.uk of the head is visible with the toque of smaller diameter, whose brim is allowed to <;ome well on the forehead in front, and then to slope upword «,t the back, with smart effect, especially when the brim pui-tion consists of a closely-set border of small foliago, from above which towws the tall crown of draped and folded straw. The mob-cap is notout of favour, but this is made wholly of straw, even to the frill which edges it as it rests on the head- -the flill that formerly was of lace forming a cap inside a shape covercr' with velvet or silk or satin. Russian not is used for some of the turbans, and others are of lace, the drapery being caught at ono side with a crystal buckle or with a metal cabochon, from the ornament tower■Jiij, upward an osprey fanta&y. Thorp is one variety of straw woven to lesemble Russian not, and another open weave is tnmeching like canvas cloth, whilo ono of tho new makes imitates (he effect of velvet, and another with smooth surfar-o looks jiisfc liko strips of satin plaited together. Rather curious 011 first acquaintance is the straw which looks just as if it hud baun knitted — knitted straw and knitted straw-plumage doubtless owe their inspiralit/r> to the great vogue for caps of knitted j wool worn so much by the sports jfirl. The mention of caps rominds . one that milliners seem to have been studying the different types of cap worn by peasants ia different part of the Continent. In ono result we find points are introduced over tho ears, characteristic of some of tho Dutch headdresses, other points stand out well behind, tho cap of the Norinandv woman is included, with l its wide frill standing up behind like a fan. Then, the way in which some of the hats fit round the face reminds one of a cap, for tho apology for a brim consists of a border of fluted lace, and under this is a pointed cap simulated in lace. Many of the big hats are given just a modicum of brim back and front, but at iho sides the width is extraordinary, and long points stand out wider than the shoulders ; across the front tho trimming will consist of two sharp ears of material fastened with a cluster of roses. Very great is the choice in the way of trimmings for hats and toques, but never is any shape overladen—rather it seems to be the studied aim of hat and toque trimmers to put on to each shape as little trimming as possible, or at any rate, if there does happen to be a good deal this is massed closely together to occupy small compa&s. Ono of tho largest possiblo _of the chap plateaus, in goklen-hued chip, had spread flatly acioss its so-called crown, the moreskeleton of a lyre tail, fastened at one side to tho brim by a large buterfly made , chiefly in green beads ; the hat seemed un- ■ happy in its barren condition.

ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS. Plenty of flowers will be used all the season through, and gieai efforts are being made to place the sweet pea at the top of the millinery list, but it is not at all likely that the rose will be ousted from its accustomed place. Some of the toques are made entirely oE this flower, and a way has been thought out of arranging rose petals to resemble plumage, with result that is quite good; as there are some people who dcelaro that cruelty is used to obtain feathers from the ostrich, and who, on that account never wear ostrich plumes any moro than they do aigrettes, the feather made of roso petals will probably appeal to them. Rambler roses have been added to tho catalogue, so that crimson ramblers and Dorothy Perkins and all the other favourite types of climbing roses have- a place in tho millinery workroom. Dwarf polyanthus roses are new, while tho York and Lancaster is expected to be a good deal employed in this Coronation year. Beautiful are tho ribbons brocaded witb rosos, and others where the rose pattern is woven in with chine effect. Roses | arc not only going to adorn tho millinery of tho season, but bunches of them Avill finish sashes, wreaths of small ones will outline the dccolletago of the evening dress, the theatre cap, of gold net is wreathed with small roses, evening shoes are embroidered with satin rosebuds, while a posy of roses is well liked for tucking into tho waistbelt. Some of the large straw hats kave as trimming merely a tall panacho of roses standing high on the left side, towering far above the crown; other large shapos, in contrast,, have a flat, leaveless wreath of tho flowers close-set, lying casually between crown and brim. The manufacture of material roses is providing work for many hundreds of English fingers, and all kinds of material are used, including tinselled cloths, silk, and cambric, and the rose of "lumineuse" owes its special charm to the silky matorial i which forms it, and which seems to radiate light. Tho colouring of these flowers is exquisite, and shades ranging from rose pink to "old" red and cerise are in great request. The moss roso in miniature is often seen ; a trellis-work of the green moss is laid all over the crown of a hat and partly on its brim, and at each corner of the trellis is set a wee pinlrbud; tho trellis is mado on a foundation of net or tinsel material, and used in this way it carries out the still existing fancy for veiled effects. Wreaths of straw flowers are not unusual on tbo useful toque or tho morning hat, and owing to tho pliable texture of the straw used tho flowers do not look at all stiff. Sometimes the stalk of the flower is more prominent than tho bloom itself, and its immenso length is disposed of by twisting it round the crown. Roso foliage is generally of a glossy nature, and the tendency of tono is rather toward burnished bronze than toward vivid green. Among other flowers wo find Gentian-blue forgot-me-nots, cornflowers, heather, and goraniums; the heather is difficult to manipulate with good result, and the amateur well advised to leave it alone, and to devote her attention to larger and bolder flowers, which are far easier to manage. Carnations of the clove and Malmaison varieties are seen in tho millinery workrooms, and these are usually arranged rather casually in tall bunches, which nod in tho breeze. The red and purple fuchsia is frequently seen, its colour scheme being well liked.