LADIES' COLUMN, London Fashion Notes.

Evening Post, Volume LXXXI, Issue 23, 28 January 1911, Page 13

LADIES' COLUMN, London Fashion Notes.

FOR THE COMING SEASON. [FBOM Oim OWN COEHSSPONDENT.] LONDON,I6fch December. It is at this time of year that most attontion is devoted to evening frocks, for festive dances and partie3 are in full swing, and whether on a large scale or a small one, the guests like to have at least three dresses to wear in change, and three are not at all too many for people who go out a great deal, and now that more variety all round— alike as regards style material, colour effects — is to be had there is not the least difficulty in choosing three dresses, not one of which shall bear any resemblance to the other two. SOME DETAILS. Generally Breaking, tne figure has to be slim and hipless, and its line must be pretty closely indicated, but there is no necessity for anything to be uncomfortably tight; of the menacled effect at the feet we have got rid, anS though there frequently is a deep "hem" of contrasting material, and though this same hem is not characterised by generosity of material, yet it strikes a happy medium, and is neither cramping in its tightness nor voluminous in ultra-fulness. Generally speaking, too, every evening dress has an air of extreme simplicity, and it is this feature which often accounts for much of its cost; trimming is often used with sparing hand, just a handsome scrap of embroidery forming a wide mousme belt— it is here that the cost comes in, and the veriest scrap— merely a quarter of a yard— of one of the wonderful-jewelled embroideries of the present moment is sufficiently high-priced to cause an economicallyminded woman to pause before deciding whether she ought to be so extravagant. Ono wonderful fabrics is draped lightly over another, metallio tissues gleam and glint through voilages of net and chiffon and ninon and tulle, while here and there vivid touches of colour come suddenly into the scheme and lend to the gown quite one of the latest points of almost barbario brilliancy. Vory often the result ought to_ be crude and imoorfsible, but it usually is neither. For instance, picture an evening gown, made with pointed tunic in the skirt; the whole of thia dress is of flamingo pink ninqn, embroidered with a sparkling floral design of crystal beads; straight across the top of the bust is placed a broad line of satin ribbon in the most brilliant violet colour, partly covered with a lace edge of glistening beads; the skirt has a band all round the edge of this same vivid mauve, similarly veiled. Startling on its first acquaintance, the result rather pleases by the time the eye has become accustomed to the scheme, and this idea of a vivid mixture of colouring is quite one of the most up-to-date, f eatu/Bs of evening dress, but, of course, we all hope that everyone will not take up the idea, for if we all do its end will soon come; it is' only while the fashion can be kept select and used with comparative sparseness that it will be tolerated. The contrasts, of course, Deed not; always be so daring as the one mentioned ; many instances the harmony of the ensemble is not for a moment in doubt, and certain it is that while so much of novel result depends upon harmonies of shade blends, a good many daring experiments iw,ill be tried. It does not always follow that because colours are strong that they must also be crude. There is a French model being shown at the moment where a tunic drapery of violent pink covers up a dress of satin in violent blue, the tunic higher across the middle of the front than at either side has an outlining of grey fox fur. Evening bodices cut with Magyar effect, are given long draped lines from the tip of the shoulders, brought with wide effect to the waist, where one side crosses slightly over the other, the crossing disappearing behind, a waistbelt of embroidery or ribbon. WHERE IS THE WAIST? About the position for the waistline the authorities are pleased to differ. Vienna seems to like it so_high as almost to bo under the shoulders, France seems to favour only the very slightly" • raised waist, and many London dressmakers are arranging that the waist shall be in its normal position, and there well defined by a shapely belt. But all t"hree positions are accepted _at the moment, and the ono seleoted >'s usually chosen with a view to its suiting the style of the gown. The waistless and hipless girl does not want to look shapely; she prefers her waist to be loosely covered, and she gives her preference for the decidedly high line, enoiroled Dy a narrow cord, which is tied in a small bow rather to one side of ths front, and falls down to her knees in two ends, which are finally finished with a taßßel or bullion fringe. A good many of the waists, slightly raised, have a corselet effect. Empire designs are being used for many of the French frocks intended for the girl, the Josephine pattern consisting of the short and narrow skirt, and little bebo bodice gathered into a high waist; as a variation from tho cord as a finish there is the Japanese type of sash with big bow tied up almost on a' level with the shoulder blades. On general principles it ib noted that the short Empire style should be reserved for the tall, slim figure, but that the semi-Mgh waist is more accommodating in that it is becoming to all normal types. SHOULDER-WIDTH. In more ways than one is it possible to obtain a wide shoulder line, and this width is everywhere prominent. The Magyar cut of bodice, of oourse, aids the attainment of this detail, and now we have added to the list the Marie Antoinette fichu, whioh is produced by folding the material in three deep pleats, which are laid across the shoulder and concentrated under a big bow at the back just beneath the shoulder blades. In other ways, too, draped elfects are arranged from the shoulders when the bodice is cut round and so low that the tops of the shoulders are left uncovered, as bo many of them are. or if there does happen to be a small sleeve of chemise pattern, which takes in the top of the shoulder, the decolletage will have a band of fur low down taking a rounded line and being continued without a break- far below the crown of the shoulders. A flat berthe of lace is sometimes placed, one end of which passes beneath a bow, and is carried all down the back of the skirt quite to tho hem of tho dress. This arrangement, be it noted gives opportunity for the display of paste ornaments, for the berthe has to he attached here and there so that it will maintain its proper course. In this department of the dreaa, too, contrasts are contemporaneous, for, while folds and drapings and fichus are being reinstated, there is another kind of bodice absolutely without any relief of frilliness about the decolletage; the neck may be cut rounded or pointed or square, but there is no tucker or trimming to outlino it, and the sleeves, of elbow-length, whether cut in one with the bodice or not, are skin tight on the arms, and look frightfully severe and plain. Such a bodice may be of brocade, and may form the upper part of a tunic which falls quite to the floor at the back, but which is looped up artistically in front, with cords and tassels, revealing an underdress of plain velvet or satin. Many of the dressmakers are at the moment making a special study of the unadorned decolletage type of bodice. POINTS TO BE NOTED. Fur is as popular as chiffon for trimming, and it is seen on everything on every occasion. It is even to be found in the short satin petticoat that is worn under a narrow, outer skirt, which is slit up at the sideß. Fur hems are immensely popular for_ evening dresses, dinner dresses, evening cloaks, and smart indoor' dresses. ' Fur is very much ;in request for the trimming of evening wraps— notably black fox, ermine, skunk, and sable. A gorgeous evening wrap of bright Malmaison pink chiffon velvet Bhowed a lining of shot chiffon in pink and silver, and a bordering all round of black fox. The fronts of this coat were cut in quite a new way, suggestive of wide stole ends, and one of the long ends can be carried up to the shoulder and there draped' and then fastened in picturesque mannen with a large cabochon of bright jet or glittering jewels. The black fur formed tho collar and edged the puffs. Bunds of jewelled, embroidery

are thrown into prominence by narrow lines of fur. It is on record that quite the latest whim of the fashionable is the Breton sleeve — a sleeve that is as wide at the elbow where it ends as it is at the top of the arm, while it is generally trimmed with a band of velvet, exactly like the sleeve of the Breton peasant, from whom it gets its name. It is a type of sleeve that needs to be skilfully cut, or it will drag and sag and look sloppy, and bo anything but successful every time the arm is moved.