LADIES' COLUMN.

Evening Post, Volume LXXX, Issue 62, 10 September 1910, Page 11

LADIES' COLUMN.

London I'ashion Notes, (From Our Own Correspondent.) A GLOOMY SUMMER. LONDON, 29th July. This week sees the close of the London "season" ; never can a more lifeless one have been experienced, and never can one have been more gloomy. Meteorologically it has been worse than last year, and now at a period when we ought to be sweltering in heat we just manage to exist under a continuous cloud-pall, whose only alternative is drenching rain. Shopkeepers don'b know how to dress their windows, so they have brought out seasonable-looking coats and ekirta of velvet and dark tweed, furs, and furlined travelling cloaks, and hats of dark colour. Thin and light clothes have been bought on generous scale by visitors from abroad in preparation for their own summer on return — there is no opportunity to wear them hero. And, curiously enough, just the same sort of season has been experienced in Paris— every race meeting and great dress function has been spoiled by wet and cold weather ; furs are being brought out there as well as here, and with the view of combining summer and winter, some inspired French dressmaker has been trimming his linen dresses with bands of fur. Bands of fur alternate with bands of chiffon in the formation of the cummer eeharpes, and at some of the smart dinners which take place immediately prior to the termination of the Paris season, the guests have been arriving with large muffs made of chiffon and fur to match their scarves — and this is supposed to be the height of summer ! Tourist 6in Scotland, however, have been much bettar off, and they have complained about the weight and excessive warmth of the regulation Highland garb— tweed costumes trimmed with leather. The summer sales here are about over, everything light has been cleared out save a few cotton dresses, and these will probably be enquired for in August — our only hope for a little spell of summer. END OF THE RACE SEASON. With the Goodwood race meeting the season always comes to a close. Practically no opportunity has this week offered _ for a dress display, though many beautiful gowns had been prepared in readiness. For the most part these were covered up with wraps. Soft foulard silk, in twill and satin varieties has been in great request, especially when patterns have been small and all-over. Some of the 6hot effects are pretty, and there are other kinds which are woven with decorativo boarders carried out in subdued Oriental shades; these patterned borders mako an effective trimming, and are particularly welcome just now when long tunics are all the rage for any occasion, as these require to be outlined with something of a contrast. A foul ar3 of spotted kind will probably have a border of key -pattern, and this latter is used to edge the tunic, the skirt beneath being flounced with a _ double accordionpleated frill, fairly straight and narrow in effect, bub not drawn at all round the knees. A tGoodwood, as at all other society gatherings, black has been much to the fore. There have been beautiful dresses of blacic crepe de chine, whose latest edition is more silky than, of yore, being almost as bright as satin. One such was made in princess shape, of short walking length, clearing the ground all round hy several inches, finished above the hem with three finely kilted flounces of the same fabric. A soft sash of crepe de chine was brought from under the arpis and lightly knotted at one side, with fringed ends reaching to the hem of the skirt ; the bodice was fitted with transparent black guimpe. Then, too, there is a decided liking for the dress of black moire, supple and soft ,in weight, but dolefully dull in appearance. Straight skirts oi it look oven more uncomfortably confining than do tight tkirts of other materials ; and if there is a coat to correspond, it is pretty sure to be of threequarter length, straight and narrow, fastened with three jet .buttons which iiaish the long rever which may perhaps bo of white satin outlined with black, j The accompanying hat of .such a costume will most likely be of white Italian straw of the enveloping cloche shape, lined underneath with black crinoline, and wreathed round the crown with gigantic poppies of black velvet, a sweeping osprey of ragged black and whit© wheat doing duty at one side. This costume, does not sound attractive — neither is it — but then tastes differ, and the style is quite orthodox. Neat are the tailor-made coats and ejiirts in fine cloth, chosen in pale tones of silver-grey and heliotrope ; the decoration as a rule depends largely upon tho type of waistcoat introduced — waistcoats will presently be taken into consideration by j the multitude ; at the moment they be- ! long to the exclusive few. Striped silk is often chosen, and after being fastened by a succession of silver buttons, the vyai6tcoat is sloped away just below the line of the waist ; blossom brocade is responsible for some striking effects, so is gold-worked cretonne. VEILED EFFECTS. Here and in Paris ideas for the popular >oilages seem to be without end. Here is the description of a beautiful dress designed for smart hotel wear : It was made of fine black Chantilly lace, over soft white Liberty satin — the magpie alliance is very dear to tho heart of the Frenchwoman this season. There was a narrow train — the fish train of the moment — accentuated by a large ohou of black velvet placed prominently upon it. A gorgeous and flimsy cloak made to bb worn with it was of mousaeline de soir in orchid mauve, edged round with a handsome embroidery of chenille and floss silk ; it was unlined, so that the Chantilly of rhe dress might be visible. Another French fancy is the gown of very fine broderie Anglaise, too delicate to "veil," that is trimmed with hems of coloured net. Thus, at Longchamps, there was noticed a dress of finely embroidered mui>lin trimmed at the lower edge with three flounces placed en bias at regular intervals of about five or bix inches, that were made of deep violet net; the sash that A'as wound high round the waist and fell in long ends down to the edge of the skirt was of the same net, and so was the hat. Another net-trimmed broderieAnglaise gown was flounced with net of dark emerald green. Again, over-tunics are worn over any kind of dress, and the robe of broderie Anglaise that is entirely hidden beneath a tunic of black or darkcoloured chiffon is quite the latest fancy. The voilage effect is recommended to hide the quality of the embroidery, much of which is not specially fine ; cheap Swiss and English embroideries are considered very suitable to use as the foundation for a chiffon tunic. The. tunic is useful, too, for its toning-down duty. Where violent colours are used and combined — such as vivid cortiflower blue trimmed with wide horizontal bands of violet embroidery, some kind of softening over-robe is a necessity. In Paris tho demand for them is enormous. Not only are violent contrasts of colour rampant in the French Capital, but startling combinations of materials are mot with. For instance, nt n recent race meeting a dross waw seen of ninon brodes, of fairyliko ethereal flimsiness, made with a front, panel of black velvet ; the lower half of the sleeves were- of the velvet, so was the waistband, and so was the lining of the large white hat worn. Magpie effects of a scale so fearless nro startlingly conspicuous. But violent contrasts are prominent in the vicinity of Paris and of the fashionalrki watering place* just at the monent. SHANTUNG FIRST FAVOURITE. Most of iho big drapers report that they have hud a readier stile during the last Tow ueeko for Shantung than for any other kind of material. Dresses of it have been eagerly boughi, 60 have coats and sikirte, and wrap-cloaks of the same silk have found many patrons. Tho Shantung ooat is certainly one of tho best friends of the traveller — it is light, and cool, and is nn admirable dress protector; some of the coats arc cut on simple lines and are little trimmed; othoi-i arc 1 wonderfully elaborate in cut and mako and trimminp. But the styles best, liked are exceedingly &iuiple, ana tho *hap« 4 are {airly wide and full, k> that nothing

beneath will have the chance of pettingcrushed. A useful coafc in natural Shantung of good quality — and the quality of this material varies considerably — is made with stitched strappings, which start frqm the shoulders, back and front, and after taking a curved line at the bodico part, run straight from waisfc to feot, broken at intervals by a trimming 1 of tabs and buttons all of the same silk/ Long revers anish such a coat, and there- is a square collar at the back, while cuffs jj.ro to mateh — as there still continues such a demand for black trimmings, satin of this description will prpbably supply the details, but more dressy are revers, collar, and cuffs made of coloured fautin or spotted foulard.