LADIES' COLUMN.

Evening Post, Volume LXXIX, Issue 113, 14 May 1910, Page 11

LADIES' COLUMN.

London I'ashion Notes. TRAVELLING CLOAKS. (From Oar Own Correspondent). LONDON, Ist April. - This is the time of year when people begin to move about, to leave town for >veek-end visits, and so forth, and a travelling cloak of some description is an essential part of the wardrobe. The up-to-dato coal 6 are all-enveloping, but they are not without shape. Until the weather grows more settled, nothing is so useful for travelling as a -» rap-coat of fine serge in navy. Long coats of thi6 are being made in modified Russian shane: they are long enoueh to reach to the hem of the skirt, but are cut up with a panel effect at the sides, and there is generous decorative trimming of black silk braid and large buttons, which are still very frequently of jot. Then, the up-to-date coat is not complete unless it is belted round the waist, and for this purpose, black patent-leather is indispensable. Neatest and most simple aro the belts which aro black all round, save for a fancy clasp as fastening, but more elaborate are the belts made alternately of strips of patent leather alternating with hinges of gold or silver, fastening with buckles to correspond. Such a coat is very trim; if a little easy -fitting in front, it is closely fitting at the back. Although of good warm weight, many of these coats are lined with shot 6ilk, or, newer still, with foulard printed in floral designs in Oriental colourings. Everywhere one sees the Paisley and Oriental designs and colourings brought out in all classes of material and used for all kinds of purposes. Paisley silk ia much in request for blouses, and there is tho bandana handkerchief, whose mission is to be to twist itself carelessly round tho rustic-looking seaside or morning hat. Tho newest thing in this line is the finelypatterned Parley net which is going to be used for evening dresses, for millinery and for general trimming effects ; possibly, too, much of it will be met later on the fashionable racecourse. The soft wallflower tints which form co important a portion of tho Paisley design are alwaj'6 becoming, especially to the brunette, as they add a touch of acceptable warmth to the complexion. Now that there is such, a desire for hats' to have a lining, the Paisley patterned net will doubtless be greatly in request for the purpose. SOME FEATURES OF THE TAILORMADE. The present-day Russian coat offers a coippromisf between the long almost envelopinjr coats of the winter and the short coats of hip length that the fashionable people are wearing in the South of France. These latter are sure to reach Londop when the weather is ready for them, and then, no doubt, they will enter keenly into rompetition with tho bolero. Ib is indisputable that, when worn by the | youthful and Blim, the Russian coat had a "chic" of its own, and this feature is accentuated now that a sparkling belt of patent leather forms bo conspicuous a part of it. Thero will bo no excuse at all for any one to wear a coat that is not of a trim cut and pleasing to look at, for the variety alike of material and style is immense. Just now it is permissible to wear any length one chooses, but the up-to-date lady is shortening her coat very considerably Some of the coats aro made with sc-vere plainness, and then they fit everywhere like a glove. On the other hand, there are tailor-made suits which have cut-away coat of. jaunty type, to some of which are added deep sailor collars, beneath which is a lace tie draped to bo knotted in front in the true nautical manner Some coats fasten in front with buttons put closely together, others are caught across the chest with a single fastening, and others again aro made with tho long planting crossover fastening below the waisthno The coats, which are not made to fsuittm, do not afford any protection from chilly spring winds. A variety of coat which can be worn with success only by the very slimlv-built, fastens transversely with iiilk-covered buttons and loops of silk cord, which run diagonally from tho left shoulder to the right hip. It is a style which will always bo remembered, and of which one would soon tiro. But it is fancied by a few, as also is the coat, whose skirt portion is cut about in ail manner of unexpected points and slants instead of being straight all round. The coat with slightly rounded fronts can be worn if liked ; it is just as much in vogueas tho coat whose fronts meet all the way down Among the curiosities must be mentioned tho coat — perhaps it is a Russian blouse — whose tails are cut away entirely from the front, something after the manner of swallowtail, except that the sides are cut down straight instead of being shaped off after the manner of tho man' 3 dress coat It is pleasing to note tho return of revers — these do so much to add to the variety and the becomingness of the costurao. Pretty chintz fabric is going to be introduoed thus, so is Shantung, and there- are plenty of figured -and shot silks which will enhance very effectively the changes in colour-schemes Soma of the chintz-patterned material is of silk, and there are Indian printed designs on cotton materials which remind one of chintz minus its glaze. A slight innovation has been introduced into the Russian ooat through tho medium of the vest, and this often gives n delightful touch of contrasting colour. A large number of coats, though not strictly on Russian lined, manage to find accommodation, for tho belt, and it is probably the popularity of the belted coat that is responsible for the coming vogue of tho Norfolk jacket — for useful wear in town and country. Belts clasping the waist firmly aro neatest, but they are only able to- accompany the glove-tight coat. The looser coat must nave a loose belt, and this is worn as if slipping below the waist. The" most pleasing belt-effect is obtained when the colour of the patent-leather of which it is made matches that of the costume, but here again, a daring contrast is very often most attractive — it suite some people to be daring and to go in for vivid splashes of colour. These fortunate people can always wear what they choose, and always look important ; but not so the average woman, who is obliged to "go slow" when choosing her wardrobe and its accompaniments. A belt of cream patent-leather is a neat finish to a costume of cream serge, but on some people it is desirable that the belt should be of cerise- or green or one of the new blues, or black. A shapely figure can afford the contrast. A coat that will always be asked for more or lese is the semi-fitting shape, made in front with straight lines without seams, beyond, tho under-arm dart. While most of the new coats have collars and revers, some have neither, and some have only one or the other. So no one can complain of lack of choice in any particular. Shantung of the heavy kind is often turned out by tailcrra with trimmings of guipure dyed to match the silk, inserted in wide panels both on skirt and coat. These silks aro dyed in all the latest colours, including the new shades of Mediterranoan blue and primula pink. Thoroughly up to date, there are shot varieties among them, and shot Shantungs are reported to be exceedingly effective ; as yet they have not put in an appearance in London. Simple skirts and coats of black-and-white shepherd-tartan are going to be worn, sometimes with a collar of vivid green or cherry-hued velvet. Now that there is such a craze to introduce the skirt with the contrasting "hem" — which is always of knee-depth — this will probably be of black cloth when the rest of the costume ia of tho check; the fashion is horribly dwarfing, and if thero happens to ba any fulness or kilting on the upper half of the skirt, all this "excess" is ruthlessly banded into the plain hem, which is always tight, and leaves grudgingly only just enough lioense for the wearer to move awkwardly with short steps. If space will allow, there is often a ' pocket on the hip of the coat : a generous tailor will placa one on each side, and its dimensions will be roomy. Decorations will consist of buttons and loops of braid, and the same details will be found elsewhere — a' fastenings and on each cuff. Sometimes the pocket is not there at all, but only a deceptive and unsatisfying flap. I If thero is not a pocket on the coat, there certainly is not one anywhere about tho

skin-tight skirt. Buttons are very important features on tho new coats ; they are made of all kinds of material, including amber, enamel, mother-of-pearl, and fabric; come aie oblong and narrow, others are as round as a halfpenny and equally flat, and havo only two holes at tho top. It is the custom to arrange these flat but- j lons in groups of about half a dozen, each ono overlapping the ono below it. Buttons of tortoiseshell, too, are to be had, and these are_ very often handsome, studded ! with gold points likp the hatpins. Another feature of the coat is its trimming, panelwise, under the arm ; this is covered with an elaborate design in soutache or .with an intricate pattern of narrow flat braid. On the front and back widths of such a coat thero is no trimming ; the revers and cuffs correspond with the underarm panels. Tho revival ! of soutache is regarded as one of the I frealcs of fashion : Vienna patronises it, as also it does braiding, therefore either de- | scription of trimming is correct. Even the plainest of coats require some trim- j ming relief, und nothing is more acceptable than soutache or strappings or judicious braidings. Sleeves of coats are all of moderate proportion?, with just a little easing on the top of tho shoulder ; otherwise the outline of tho arm is closely followed.