LADIES' COLUMN.

Evening Post, Volume LXXVII, Issue 108, 8 May 1909, Page 11

LADIES' COLUMN.

London JEashion Notes. (From Our Own Correspondent.) LONDON, 26th March. TUNICS— REAL AND SIMULATPJD. Skirts — double, or apparently bo — are among tho characteristics of the coming season. Skirls showing a false tunic have tho outline indicated in front by btitching or black steel buttons, and behind by dtitohing alone. The tuuic is ono of the leading- features of evening dress, tho upper okirfc sometimes falling quite loosely from the waist, arranged over a petticoat of satin ; but more usually the tunic form is chosen, with a result that is graceful, especially when it 13 cut with peplum points, vii.l bo contrived that each point is weighted with a tassel in silver or gold. Soino of tho favourite tunics are cairied out in. a contrasting fabric — satin over net, for instance ; f.ho tunic and the draped bodice can be made in one, with crossing draperies to form the front of the corsage. On a dross of cachemire de soie the fringed tunio was caught up to the left side to show a panel of self soutache, and this was continued on the botfica and sleeves, a slight drapery of the plain cathmere sloping lrom the waiet to the shoulder scarfwiße. It is in the making of draped tunics of this description- that the handsom* bordered materials come in. so well. PANIERS AND PANELS Although ultra-fashionable dressmakers are beginning to make' dresses with paniers, it will bo some time before any greater change takes place for ordinary wear than the extension of the skirt round the hem. The new little paniers are slowly creeping toward the completion of an idea which takes one into a new field of interest. Some of them are just a slight fulness above the hem of the skirt, otheTs ju&t abovo the knee ; but all are so slight that for the time being they are scarcely perceptible ; they have been more pronounced on Court gownt,, but made in soft and drooping fabrics they have been more suggestive of graceful drapery. However, it is remarked that the mere draping of the upper part of the skirt marks the close ot the reign of tho "drum-tight" dress. If pa.nier.-3 are to meet with a, doubtful reception, not so is the case with panels. The majority of tho new skirts have a panel up the front, and some have one up the back as well. Panels or trimming run in an unbroken line from the bodice yoke to the hem of the skirt. This type is hard and npt really becoming, moreover, it is becoming so popular that probably before lon^ it will pass entirely out of sight from select circles. Skirts made to button up the side are fashionable. The panel finds a place on coats as well as on skirts, and is made to appear as a continuation. WAIST OR NO WAIST? While all tho model gowns now to be seen are mado with tho waist-line on a levol with the shoulder-blade, we aro pro mised that the waist in the near future will be indicated more frequently in its natural place. The regular Empire back is not often seen, though it lingers in mantles. A little tilt -up at the back ia still encouraged, but. the Princess roue with tho waist in its proper place will be the correct model before many months are over. Tho semi-fitted Princess dresses are now in cloth, and, tailor-made, they are decidedly one of the most prominent novelties of the season. They have tho achantage of being vory easy to get into, bocaupc the fastening, both on bocuce and skirt, is at one side, and buttons aro*the popular medium Tho heavior materials lend themselves tc the Empire style of drees, wiiiio those of mare flimsy composition require the weighting of soutache braiding, elaborate bands ol such handicraft as rich gaions with beads sot into chenille or silken scroll work. Ono of tho most attractive features about the princess gown ia the beautiful uninterrupted lina of tho back On a good ligura tho elfect is pleasing. Usually there is a wide band of embroidery carried from neck to feet, and with a good cut which does justice to the inward curve of the waist this 13 admirable There is no junction of skirt with bodice with the necessary lapping over of two thicknesses ot material and lining such as had often spoiled the lines of a good figure. With a princess gown made in this way the under clothing should bo cut on filename plan. At all tho best outfitting shops this is to bo found, and tho new robe-corset carries down tho line uninterruptedly, for there id no^ even a seam at tho waist. The material of the corset forms tho petticoat as wall, and is cut princess fashion like bhe gowu. MOKE AMPLE SKIRTS. From one extreme to the other again ! This time as l-ejrards the width of skirts. A year ago wo were not allowed to have more than three yards round our feet ; now, if we like, wo can have as mucb as eleven yards; and not only is it near the feet that there is a more generous allowance, but also in tho neighbourhood of the waist, for a few of the French dresses in, flimsy fabrics are fully gathered into the waistband; others have the effect of fulness near the waisl, by the introduction of groups of motifs in embroidery, or by the aid of line tucking!* EVERYTHING TO MATCH The necessity for having each article in a toilette matched is a feature of the season ; accordingly there are gloves of every knowi< tint, and there are shoes, stockings, handbags, etc., all in keeping. With a white or silver costume the shoes should be of silver brocade, and the gloves puro white. One of the newest colour 6is peach-bloom, which is soft and becoming, and tho accompanying shoes would be mado of suede of the same ] shade, with vamps of patent leather. When boots are worn — and satin and suede boots are now made for indoor wear — the material forms the upper part, and the fronts are goloshed with patent leather Stockings in silk — plain and shot and hair-striped — are to be had in purple, claret eloctric, and ueacock blues and greens, heliotrope, etc. Open-work stockings are still in demand, and so are «'.mc with gorgeously embroidered fronts. ! The novelty where hosiery is concerned consists in the marvellous range of choice of colour provided for the customer. ODDS AND ENDS. Nec££tends ale .still of choky height, finished with a wide frilling coming up beyond the oar.s. This fashion has led to the introduction oT an endless variety of dainty neckwear. Frilling in fineiy-pli-atud liss=e is enquired for. Double goffered ruches in fine tulle fitted with a band of velvet along the middle aro attractive, the velvet band being finished with a tiny bow and buckle. Evening wraps aro very full, and draped from both shoulders with bernouse effects. Made in satin of brilliant hue, tho lining js often of black satin Some of them aru f-o cleverly made that they can be worn just as well inside-out when oeca«on requires, thuß boing in the guise of black wraps with coloured linings. Long cords and tassels are the fastenings. Black velAct collars made m a round shape, worked with onibroidery in heavy gold thread, are used as a finish to the satin cloaks, and it is a simple matter to arrange them also so as to he reversible. Handkerchiefs are small and have a coloured border ; some are of a. check design throughout, and others are of cambric of self-colour, that fcdected being of course in keeping with tho dress. Jaquette3 arc worn with ultra smart tailor clothes, either to match the Ekirt or of different fabric, made in great \ariety, and- generally sufficiently long to reach the ankle?, with fancy waistcoats, coachmen's capes, fanciful cuffs, enormous but\oii3, and soutache trimming*. Satin buttons ol all colours are ready for UFe ; their shapes are nearly as varied as the colours. Round buttons are seen only comparatively seldom.

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