GARDENING NOTES. [By Experience.]

Evening Post, Volume LXXV, Issue 33, 8 February 1908, Page 12

GARDENING NOTES. [By Experience.]

THE VEGETABLS GARDEN. The dry weather experienced so long is biinging trouble for the vegetable grower, and reoent rainfalh have bocn too light to expect much change in that respect. Those who hu?o a large supply of water conveniently situated can &wo tha position, to a large extent, but I Btill maintain that half watering is more hairnful than otherwise, as it tends to bring tho roots too near the surface, and thp • crop cutters more from the heat than if left unwatsred. The btt-t way is to give ono good watering, and then a mulch of somo kind to prevent tho moisture from evaporating, and keep the coil cool. Only a few, however, can do these things. Peas are developing very much less than their normal siz-s, and French and runner beans are maturing very quickly, so that unless tho crop is kept gathered very closely the plants are soon carrying a crop of ripening sued. This, very boon ends their career j it is ripening the seed that is so exhaustive to the plants. Another trouble is with tho cebbaga liy, which is sine to bo plentiful in eueh a &e?son as this. , Tho use of tar-water has been described bsfGre, and boiling water advocated to destroy young caterpillars. 'A decoction of hellebore powder, one ounce- to two gallons of water, may bs used to preserve young plants, but niay not ba used on thosa nearly fit for use, U3 it is very poisonous. For immediate uss the powder should be mixed with a email quantity of boiling water, but even then it is better to let it stand a day or two before using. Apply to tho plants in a epray, co as to cover all' parts. All the cabbage tribe, including broccoli and savoys, wiL hay© to be pla-nted bsforo long or they will not have time to make growth civugh. before winter, and if they do not make most of their growth before then, they never make it at all. It will not bo wise to wait for rain, for it may come too late to bo of use in that way, whereas if tin plants havo been prepared by heeling, as advised', and arc now put out, with one watering to establish them, 'or when Iho plants aro , vreli ."locked with roots, no wat&r at all given them, they will hold their own for a while, and probably make- a little, growth. At Iho least they will get established, thon when rain and cooler weather 1 comes they will rush into growth^ straight away. Before putting out tn& plants thoy should be dipped in tar-watsr or the hellebore decoction. Celery planting should be finished as soon as possible Tho plants will rcquira a good soaking of water after planting,' and will then usually stand pretty well without water for a time. Being in trenchss they are somewhat j shaded from the sun, and the roots, bei ing so far from the surface, naturally j rind more' moisture lhan they otherwise j would ; still, nover grudge- trouble in i giving t^hem eom,o \vatcr ii you po&sibty can, a3 they respond' wel) to it. THE GREENHOUSE. , Pot all seedling begonias, or, if not j lar^o enough for pots,* prick off in ' boxes. I do not approve of potting I these Loo small ; it is waste of time, | and tho plants do bettor in boxes till a good size. Young gloxinias aro different, and should bo potted as soon as they can conveniently, for they aro not gnss feadors, aod will make j]no flowering plants in four-inch pols, fand even throw a i few llowers in ihreej inch pots, alwaj-3 supposing the atmoi sphere 13 right, viz., moist and' wai'm. Cinerarias will need looking' cl&Eely alter; this dry weather will surely bring the - miner 5 ; Keep a strong smell of lav abojut jthe- by whatever • means you can; keep the plants moderately shaded from ■he sun, and /fully esppoijed^ to 'the air and light at all other times. • TREATMENT OP. FRUIT TREES, (Answers to "Amateur's" Queries.) Apple Tree.— When training trees an dwarfs, the object should be to cover every part with fruit. If the growths aro not severely shortsned for the first few years, this object cannot be at- 1 tamed. A small tree which bears fruit only on the outer branches will not fulfill its, mission. Dwarf trees are not worth 'having unless by giving them tho extra, care which their moderate dimensions render easy. Thoy are made to bear as much fruit as larger trees, treated rp. a rougher way, whero land is cheaper, and therefore space not of so much consequence. Proper shortening will force fruit spurs to form on all pirta of the branches ; even the largo main branches should carry thair quota of fnut as well as the natural beaiing wood. If you have not stopped your shoots as previously advised, you ehould now cut off a few inches of the growing top 3. The effect of this will be to strengthen the buds on ths lower parts of tho shoots, and prepare them for cutting back in winter, when you will further shorten all shoots — tho stronger to six oi\ eight inches, the weaker to foui* inches. Stunner Pippin bears very young, so you aro pretty sure to get some fruit from it next season. You may lea-vie the fruit on till you can tell if the tree is able tp^make free growth as well as carry it ; if you find that is ths case you may let tho fruit mature, but if the ' tree only ' makes feeble growth you must remove the fruit, or you may ruin your tree, and will at the least delay progress for several years. A more elaborate system of summer pruning would be best in your case, beginning with tho first growth in spring ; it is too late for that now, but next season yon might take i,t up. Plum Treo. — At once reduce all the shoots by a least half their length, the ohject being, as with tho apple tree, to plump up tho lower bud&. A new lot of shoots wilL spring from below the cuts ; at winter pruning you will cut off tlie older wood bearing these shoots, but leaving two of them on eacK_ branch, shortening them to about two inches. Apricot Tree.— With tho object of overcoming the natural habit of tho tree to bear on the ends of the branches, you will at once shorten the branches by half ; in winter you will reduce them by another half of the parts loft. This hard pruning often scares beginners, but be sure that to make haste in producing a fruitful tree you must go slow, otherwise you may, after a few years, havo to go back and begin again. Cherry Tree. — Your query is a little difficult because of the -pronencss of cherry trees to take the dread disease known as gumming, which is not, as nome suppose, caused by injury to tho bark or wood, but a disease, the cause of which is &o far unknown. Tho best thing to do is choose a free-growing kind ; you may get that in the Bigarreaus, or— and this I would advise — plant a Morello. It is not considered a dsssert fruit, but that is a matter of taste. It is the best of cookers, and is the variety used for that delicious conserve, "brandied cherries. "' The habit of the treo is peculiarly adapted to your purpose- ; it is very free, and makes a beautiful round head without pruning after Hie first shortening back at planting time, and appears to be free from gum.

Chollic — "Why, I was walking along the street, and the fellow, a total stranger to me, camo up and oalled me an idiot." Mollic — "Is it Ec-ssible that he was a total stranger?"