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GARDENING NOTES.

[Bt Experience.] SPRAYING FRUIT TREES. In these times the path of the horticulturist is beset with dilliculties. Fiuittree pests are not the least difficult todeal with, y«t in the light of modern knowledge most of them can be either entirely eradicated, or at 1 least bo checked as to reduce their ill effects to a minimum. The application of insecticides and fungicides is after all not a very difficult matter -when It is undertaken in the right way and with proper appliances. Silver blight of the plum is not to be cured by spraying ; the disease is conveyed by the sap, and, so far as I know, can only be met by amputating the affected limbi The 'lime, salt, and sulphur wash is the best-known winter dressing for apples, pears, and plums. It destroys moss and lichens, scale, American blight, and larva and eggs of insects. In old times this used to be applied with a brush, which, in the case of large orchards, means an immense amount of labour, and even then small twigs and branches could not be treated. Now it is applied with the spraying engine, and the time occupied is not great. To Make the Wash.— Required : Unslaked lime 201b, sulphur 101b, » salt 7£lb. Boil in an iron vessel 101b of lime and 101b of sulphur in 10 gallons of water for about an hour and a half, till the sulphur is thoroughly dissolved and the mixture is- a dark amber colour. Stir occasionally while boiling. Put the 101b of lime in a cask, pour over it sufficient hot water to thoroughly slake it; to this add the 7ilb of salt. When dissolved, add this to the mixture in the boiler. Strain the mixture into the spray barrel, adding sufficient water to make 30 gallons in all. Spray the trees while the mixture is hot ; wear leather gloves to protect the hands. A cyclone nozzle should bo used to 'hrow a very fine spray; sufficient should be applied to cover all the branches, but not to drench them. This work should be done as soon as possible, while the trees are dormant. APPLE AND PEAR SCAB. The fruit on trees affected by this fungoid disease are marked with Black spots and blotches, which cause pits on the surface, and show brown marks through the flesh of the fruit. In a bad attack the fruit gets deformed while in its early stages, and often falls from the tree, the fruit being quite worthless. It is a disease very easily cured ; the means is Bordeaux mixture, to be applied just as the buds aro beginning to bwell. Required : — 101b sulphate of copper (bluestone). 10!b unslaked lime, 40 gallons water. Tie up in a piece of scrim 101b bluestone, put 20 gallons of ' water in a wooden vessel, and buspend the bluestone in it, just beneath the surface ; do this the night before wanting it for use, to allow time {b dissolve. Slake the lime in a separate vessel, and add the other 20 gallons of water. Strain the solution of lime into the bluestone, and stir well. Spray as directed, even if the lime, salt, and sulphur wash had been previously applied. The same remedy 19 effective also for peach curl — the blistered -.ppearance of the leaves ; so all peachy nectarines, apricots, and also plums, should be hprayed with it. Gooseberries are attar iud by a fungoid disease wJiicn marES tnc leaves with dark spots. The leaves in a bad attack fall off, and the fruit is rendered worthless, being bitter in taste. Bordeaux mixture as above is an absolute cure for this disease. The above f ormula is for • use while the buds are dormant; if it is delayed till the buds are broken the solution muft be weaker— viz., 41b bluestone, lime, and 50 gallons of water. In any case, even if the previous dressing was I given, the weaker one should be applied also just as the buds are opening. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Potatoes. — Preparing the seed: For main cropß, which are planted when there is little danger from frost, almost anything with an eye will grow, even a bit of rind. With, the early crops it is somewhat different. In places free from spring frosts there is no trouble, as the sets can be put in when ready ; also when the quantity is limited to a few pounds there is no trouble, as they could be en sily covered on frosty nights, or some other plan adopted. "Oi)e of the best early crops I ever had was got in this way. The sprouts were forward and good, so I chose a dry patch of ground in a place fully exposed to light. I laid the sets, sprouts upward, close together and- coveied them ashes from a rubbish fire. There they remained several weeks- till danger from, frost was past. They weie then lifted by running a long-pronged foik under them, separated without trouble, and planted with a trowel in drills prepared as though for sets ; they were only partially covcrea with soil at first, but more was drawn in after a time till the shoots were almost 'hidden ; they came away ir fine style. I am only a partial believer in the sensational stories of phenomenal crops produced by particular varieties ; though I am not denying it, I t Link it due more to some extra care, or extra good circumstances. I myself once dug seven hundredweight of Up-to-Dales on a small piece of ground, which worked out at over thirty tons per acre, and the crop was exceptional. To get the best results requires the best of means and measuies. One difficulty at present besettitg the cultivator is to keep the seed potatoes from spiouting, or, if they \^ill sprout, to keep them fit for planting. Where crops were dug late the seed is naturally late sprouting, and causes no trouble, hence seed should, if possible, be obtained from places wnere it was specially grown. To obtair proper seed growers plant about Christmas ; the result expected is Mn.V.l tubers and late sprouting. Only a few, however, tre obtained in i that way except by the best firms. But I however the seed was obtained, Hie early ! varieties will naturally sprout now. If they are left in bags or in heaps the , sprouts come caily, get drawn to AI temi.ited proportions, and are while and i unsubstantial; Mich seed put in any but ! the lightest and dryest of ground would I only partially succeed at best, for tho sprouts would rot off. Tho seed should be kept iv thin layers in a place fully exposed to light and air, but protected from rain and frost. Under Mioh. conditions, if they sprout too early they can be kept a long time out of the ground without harm, as the sprouts will keep short, green, and hard, with a number oi green rootlets at their base; when Mieso are planted they start inlo growth right away, and, given good ground, piopcrly manured, the best results may be expected. The &ame mv.st not be expected from sets that have had ■improperly developed sprouts rubbed off, as then secondary shoots must be relied on, and they are never so good. Sow more Peas and a little white Turnip seed. Other things as advised in last "Notes," if not yet sown, should be got in, particularly Onion for tup main crop. Tomato plants should bo kept near tho glass, with plenty of air on warm days. It is still not too late to sow seed of Tomatoes — better, in fact, than having the plants too early. Plant Asparagus, Rhubarb, Seakalo, Garlic, and Shallots.

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https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/EP19050812.2.78

Bibliographic details

Evening Post, Volume LXX, Issue 37, 12 August 1905, Page 12

Word Count
1,286

GARDENING NOTES. Evening Post, Volume LXX, Issue 37, 12 August 1905, Page 12

GARDENING NOTES. Evening Post, Volume LXX, Issue 37, 12 August 1905, Page 12

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