LADIES' COLUMN.

Evening Post, Volume LXVI, Issue 152, 24 December 1903, Page 11

LADIES' COLUMN.

London Fashion Notes* m (From Our Own Correspondent.) LONDON, 7th November. Lately I have come across a great many veils made of chiffon, always in a light hue, with pale blue occupying the mort prominent position. They are spotted with chenille dots or crescents, and generally are bordered with a line of dots or crescents. Other chiffon veils are sprigged with tiny floral designs, in white, with a tiny chenille spot placed in th» middle of each flower. Veils nearly always now are of somewhat vast dimensions, so as to allow of their being looped at the back. The idea is again in vogue in Paris of using a black lace veil as tho sole trimming for a hat with low crows and flat brim ; the veil is simply gathered round the crown, and is arranged so as to full in full deep flounces at the back. Indeed, in some cases there may be two veils on one hat — a face veil and a drapery veil. For instance, one of the newest veils for draping / purposes is of whit* chiffon with a large circular chenille spot in yellow worked upon it, and the faot veil to accompany it will be of white mesh spotted with large white dots of ' chenille. Although many of the latest veils are of delicately tinted blue or pink, some people prefer either a white or black mesh, with or without dots, and look upon tho coloured mesh veils as a delusion and a "snare. Some of the veils are heavily patterned with a lace design, bat these are very trying and unbecoming, and are really only suited for draping purposes, to which 'use some of the most costly Alencon and Chantilly veils art put, with rather striking effect. Xhes« draperies are allowed to float about in apparently anyhow fashion, though they are fastened to the brim of the hat and at the back are skewered through with a nnudbome brooch or one of the big new sniety-pins. The floating veil is popular only with a certain type of women ; sometimes it is set round the broad brim of a hat and allowed to hang loosely round the face to below the chin, where it it bordered with an openwork hem ; one important point to be noted concerning veils, of this description is that they must hang to the same depth all round, and must not on any account ba caught up at the back more than in front. So far very few have been worn in London j they appear to be more general in Paris. One of tho French milliners, by the way, has recently been showing hats whose lac« flounces reach to the shoulders, encasing the whole head, and some of the turbant at the same establishment havo insid* draperies of pleated silk muslin wbick are supposed to lie against the hairj these flounces are placed inside the hat. In regard to millinery matters, I may note that plush and velvet are material* which being more largely used in the construction of hats and toques than they have been for come time. Tb* velvets M-hich are most in demand are tho plain, the glove-finished, and the miroir-fimshed or panne weave. Somo of the newest millinery French models are decidedly curious, and don't seem at all likely to improve on acquaint tance. Such was one which I could not help noticing in the. West End the other day; the bat ims a big one of picture type, formed of black velvet, and its only trimming consisted of a large, ordinary gold, epaulette which was attached to th« jam-pot crown by means of a band of ths new gold millinery braid and » button. Uold and sjlver braid is much favoured by * ranch milliners, and so are the lone, drooping, shaded feathers which are s« largely seen on expensive hats ; and, comparatively speaking. Holers are not so prominent in- milfinery circles as they ,v V .° „ ' but then one always notice* tnnl they are less used in autumn and winter than in tho summer What (towers there Hie are amazingly Handsomo and beautiful, particularly tho hues scarlet poinscttiaa In the way of toques, the most modern is perhaps' that known as the "torpedo" shape, Aieh ia narrow, flat, and pointed, and in .my opinion extremely hideous, and fans np- ' thing but novelty as its recommendation. Une of the shapes which Pnrisiennes seem to be favouring now is called the " Marie VmDlio," and always has a drooping silk curtain, nodding plumes, and soft sliiugs, uud^ is becoming to elderly people. Not long ngo we linidly ever saw ft collar on fcome people, or' if there \va» ono it was exceedingly narrow. Now, however, stocks and coliars of all descriptions nrp all the rage, and add not a little to the cost of one's outfit. French people aio again going in for the high plain white linen collar, sometimes fas-, tened like a. stock witu a deep point M

oth^' Whlch » oi embroidered ljnen; «OM* again with the high stock band of «.nJ i v° r tnusl »n dip downward in front fnii . ?°, nd the point are two tabs which «wi singly. One of the newest cravats „ m °niing wear is the narrow turn-over couar, which in front continues into a bib {" v. n elongated heart shape; generally it is of white Irish laoe or of crochet stiffly warched and bordered with an inch wide Hemstitch of white linen ; the lower end JB,J B, nnished uith a long white linen •nnge, tho threads of which are tied up into a series of knots. In more elaborate form there are pretty collars of guipure with two pieces of brightly-coloured velvet falling in front in two pointed ends, leaving a space between, edged with tasseU»; the lower part of the collar is run through with a band of velvet to coires poud. Many of the new stocks have the stock portion and the tab cut in ono piece co as to fit the throat. The popularity of tho .Bulgarian embroidery has brought some pretty collar and cuff seta to the front, aud the vivid colours employed are contrasted with striking effect; the models are easy to imitate, and these dainty neofe finishes'which are expensive to buy can readily be made at home; the stitches are simple and the work ia quickly done on account of tho coarse thread used in the embroidery, "whose colourings are usually either rea, blue, or green, introduced on to white or ecru linen. Tho ecru shade is best for the foundation of th© Bulgarian work, but pongee silk makes up more smartly. Tabs in greater or less number characterise most of th© neckwear now, and whilo some are finished with a fringe of lineu or silk, others have an applique design at the end. Some of the more dressy silk stocks are tied into bows, and worn with them is a turnover of dainty white laco or embroidery; the turn-over portion »" often deep enougn to resemble a rdll <!ollar; if the finishing bow is drawn through a silver or gun-metal buckle a smart effect is immediately given. Among the latest additions to neckwear, iii rather more solid form, aro dainty littlo cravats mode of moleskin which aro now arriving from Brussels, which is noted for dainty trifles and •mall dr«w details. These moleskin cravats faster- in front with one or two tiny stol© ends; they are lined with rich white •atm, and will bo much worn with tho tailor-made costumes of every description. 1 hoar of some neck boas made from seagulls which abound in Switzerland, and into which the heads of the birds aro introduced as well, but there is wire to be an outcry against them 'if they find their way to London, on account of tho slaughter involved in their manufacture. It is stated on good authority that the extremely deep lace collars, some of which, Without exaggeration, reach to tho waist back and front, are quite out of date in fashionable manufacturing circles, though thoy continue to flu th» shop windows in London. Tho lace scwyes, too, ■which people twisted round their necks about twenty times aro also out of date, and their place has been entirely taken by tho lace tab collars. Ib is further stated that the, newest collars aro made of armour net, relieved with insertion* of guipuro or motifs of wheat pattern, and are cut in «paulett© fashion to fall over the shoulders; while in some instances there is a heavy fringe all round of guipur© tasselling. Th© wheat pattern, according to the information received, ia figuring largely in every make of lace; and appliques are atill to remain for a long while to com©. AH being used at present are of a neavy make with padded centres, which form a distinguishing feature also of all the newest galona and lace medallions. Mention is made, too, of a new belt which is formed of guipure, woven high at the sides to form the fashionable Swiss belt at the back, and some of these belt* have short, stole and. towelled ' ends both back and front. Speaking of belts, by th© bye, there ia now a corselet of folded or pleated'silk, which ia narrow at me sides and drawn into,a high deep point in front like an exaggerated Swiss belt; over this the bodice or blouse is allowed to pouch slightly, but the wanft line ia distinctly visible all round. Belts made of "tooled 1 ' leather are new and are very exclusive, but are seldom pleasing; indeed thoy tend rather toward being vulgar, smothered over as they are with goiu spots and gold worked in to have the appearance of crocodile marking. " Tooling ' Is all very well for bookbinders' pup poaen, blit it need not be introduced into drew detiuuj. On the 16th inst., at the residence of the bride's parents, Jesaie-street, Miss Dauiy Bono was married by the Rev. J. Kennedy Elliott to Mr. Jos. Nickerson. The bride looked pretty in white figured satin, with veil and orange blossom. Miates Lily and Alice Bono attended the bride as chief bridesmaids and wore bluo voile, with cream lace, Daphne and Violet Bono wearing wßito silk. Mr.' W. Nickacson acted as best man. The presents wero handsome and numerous. A . reception was held in the evening at Pon•onby Hall, Abel Smith street. Mr. A. B. Harris, ft well-known settler. of Raefjhi, Waimarino, was married, at St. Thomas'a Church, Nowtown, on Monday, to Miss Lebanna Bernard, second daughter of Mr. Manuel Bernard, of Wellington. The ceremony was pflnormed by the Rev. Mr. Walker. The brid© was attended by her two sistera (Misiea Mary and Theresa) and Misses Minnie Harris (flitter of the bridegroom), and the duties of beat man were discharged by Mr. Geo, Hnrrw.* The honeymoon will b© spent in the HrtwkeH Bay district. On Monday afternoon a pretty wedding woa celebrated at St. Paul's Pro-Cathe-dral, the contracting parties being Miss Maud Win wood Smith, eldest daughter of Mars. Cedeitiand, of Moleawprth-street, Wellington, and Mr. Jnc M. Reid, of Irrvcrcargiil. The bride, dressed in trained white silk, trimmed with insertion and chition, with the customary veil and ' wreath of orange-blossoms, and carrying a- handsomo bouquet, the gift of tho bridegroom, looked very becoming. The nridoaunaids, Him Dolly Smith (sister of the bride) and Mis* Nellie Itigarlsford, were alwo dres»ed in whit© silk and wore picture liatfl. The brid© was given away ay Mr. Geo, Rignrlaford, Thu Rev. Mr. Sprott performed the ceremony, after which an adjournment to Mr. Godber's rooms waa made, whero breakfast was served, and the usual toasts honoured The gift of the bride to th© bridegroom ■was a very handsome gold watch-pendant, and that of the groom to the bride a golu time-keeper, while the pjifts to the bridesmaids from th© groom took the lorm oi gold ring* Th* groom had in attendance Mr. Vvm. Weston as beat man and Mr. Harry Schnab on groomsman. The presents were numerous and choice, and alter the ceremony Mr. and Mra. Reid left by the Mnraroa en route for luvercnrKltt, where they intend spending their honeymoon.