LADIES COLUMN. LONDON FASHION NOTES.

Evening Post, Volume LX, Issue 18, 21 July 1900, Page 2 (Supplement)

LADIES COLUMN. LONDON FASHION NOTES.

(Written specially for the Evening Post.) LOjNDOM, 2nd June. For picture effects we rely principally ton the fichu, which is drapocu over the shoulders in a \ r buck and iroufc, and is usuahy of silk or musiin, edged with lace and trimmed wuh iusemon and tucks and bebe ribbon — a little etcetera we cannot do 'Without; it is caught in front with a buck.c or rosette or else with a pearl fichu-chain which ends with diamond drops, and can if desired be worn as a necklet. The ends of Iht. fichu vary iv ..euyih, some barely reaching the walbt, ochers failing down the fakirt. With the longest variety it is pretty, after the iichu has been united on the left side oi the bodice, to let one end fall straight down, and then to pass the other end across to the opposite side of the waist, catch it there by a second buckle or rosetce, and then let it fall as it pleases. Ficliu-hke trimmings characterise some bodices. Chemisettes are frequently of lawn or lace, and are worn, of course, without lining. Overtrimmed dresbes are considered now to be quite second-rate, and much simplicity and picturesqueness results from the use of the fichu and the prettily-folded and youthful-looking belted bodice, especially when thin materials have to be dealt with. Grey is always popular, and this season light shades are specially attractive ; the newest is now called "cobweb," and is that tone which combines so well with rich creamy-tinted lace ; some lace ' nowadays is coloured, thus grey lace is seen and so is fawn. Some of that in grey has the design still further emphasised with skilful touches of steel. Grey and yellow continues to be recognised as 'an admissible combination, and is certainly a very successful one when the exact harmonising . shades of both are used ; grey and orange are not out of date, but grey and pink is certainly a demode contrast, and nothing has been discovered to beat grey and white. Of Wedgwood blue I have told you already ; and this remains distinctly the colour of the season, though too trying for any but the most irreproachable complexion ; some of the shades are more exacting than others, and a good deal of white or cream is always commingled even for the most perfect type of blonde. Skirts of two different materials are growing in favour. For instance, an overskirt, three-quarter length, may be of gathered muslin edged with lace, while the underskirt is of shot taffetas. Muslin and foulard compose some of the double skirts, and for a similar purpose foular-d is also used in conjunction with cloth or with taffetas. This is distinctly an old-fashioned style, the revival of the polonaise being aimed at; the gaugings of the latter are kept distinct by inlet strips of insertion. One cannot go wrong in having a bolero of some kind, and there are numerous shapes to choose from, some being excessively short all round and some reaching to the waist^ while others are spade-fronted or else terminate in two extremely sharp points some distance below the waist-line. Some are openfronted and others fasten across the chest, or else button up for the entire length; quite a number are like little coatees, particularly those with spade fronts, and these depend largely upon buttons for their ornamentation.' But of course the open-fronted boleros are the smartest, and necessitate a variety of pretty vests— of which the supply is endless ; further, it has revived the deep corselet belt, which may be of satin, silk, ribbon, taffetas, or even of that thin material crepe de chine, which passes through jewelled slides and forms then a graceful sash with its long embroidered ends. A touch of black is deemed essential this season, and that necessary adjunct is often seen in the form of a corselet belt ; these belts are generally draped at one side into a bow, and the short ends are fastened down with .a metal claw. One of the latest ideas is to have the collar or revers and belt to correspond, both being made of peau de soie, embroidered by hand and touched here and thera with gold or silver threads. Hem-stitohed handkerchief revers of tinted muslin are one of the leading novelties, the same muslin, finely tucked, doing duty for the V-shaped chemisette. Much demand is now "experienced for linen and lace of Irish" manufacture, and Irish cut-out linen collars are useful on coats and on shirt blouses ; this same "lace" is also to be used for parasol covers. Irish linens and Irish batistes will be, perhaps, the most popular "cottons" of the year; spotted batisteMs very nice as a rule, and makes particularly smart blouses, the style most in vogue being the sailor shape. Irish frieze is in demand for useful wear, and the run on it has been emphasised by the action off the Duke and Duchess of York, who have ordered two lengths of Irish frieze for suit and tailor - made gown respectively. There are always some who do not care to venture out of doors without some light shoulder wrap, and it is for such that smart shoulder capes of rich I guipure .or lace or frilled net are brought out ; the most elect shape is the capuchon, finished with fluffy frills and long stole ends in front ; other little shoulder wraps partake of the fichu style, and after being prettily frilled, are knotted in front. Fashionable little cdats or jackets are principally composed of black glace silk, reaching just below the waist ; they are not easy to fit, for the silk is noted for its tendency to wrinkle ; therefore only good tailors are competent to turn them out. Other little coats bearing the hall-mark of fashion are of 'lace, made Avith open fronts and knotted across m ith a fringed scarf of crepe de chine ; braid lace, Honiton or Irish guipure, are best suited for their construction, and as a rule they are mounted over colour ; frequently, however, they are regarded as a relief over a black dress. Useful fawn covert coats nearly all are made to fasten over at one side with a single large button instead of the more usual row of (smaller ones. Among the numerous buttons seen, the lozenge-shaped appeal apparently to the fancy as much as any other kind. For shirt blouses, instead of the usual plain pearl button there is a series of studs made of gold and jewels which at once elevate the shirt above the ordinary level of morning wear. I have omitted to say that collar bands are again made very high and close fitting, round the neck, with a tall point under each ear, making * great many women look choked. With transparent yokes, the collars correspond, and they are boned or wired to keep them in shape and position. Until quite the last have I reserved what some are inclined to regard as a very important item— namely, the most recent development in the sleeve — the double variety whose acquaintance we are just making. It is in reality a revival of the "sixties," but nevertheless to a great many of us it is a novelty — and a stupid one at that. A number of the new gowns show this sleeve, which is tight-fitting as far as the elbow, whence it spreads out into a bell-shape, and from that point downward to the wrist there is a full undersleeve of lawn or net or muslin or chiffon drawn into a band tightly round the wrist, and then finally The eyes feeling tired after a day's work suggests spectacles, the prope"r glasses accurately fitted. Alfred Levi, Consulting Optician. — Advt.

is edged with a shaped frill which dangles over the hand. It is decidedly a quaint sleeve, and also higkly inconvenient, while, further, the full frill is always catching or dipping into something. It is early yet to advise as to its probable length of days ; we shall see how it in patronised at Ascot, that great function of each year which finally establishes the modes for the season ; this double sleeve is sure to be accepted by some who always study and follow the latest craze — whatever it be. Some of these bellshaped sleeves are much more spreading over the elbows than are others, aud some at that point are sharply scalloped. It is thought probable that the short elbow sleeve met by long gloves will develop With the summer. Certainly if the double sleeve shoiud happen to "catch on" it will be taken up by all sorts and conditions -of people, <.n\d oue knows from past experience a\ hat that means ; it is perhaps mobt suited for tea-gowns. Just now the best style of sleeves are tucked round the arm in groups at intervals ; if they be of the transparent order, the tucks often descend in cose formation to the wrist. Sleeves are long and continue to widen and droop over the hand, though a certain section still remain faithful to a small gauntlet cuff.