HIKING IN CHINA

Dunstan Times, 17 October 1938, Page 6

HIKING IN CHINA

A BRITISHER'S WALKING TOUR THROWN !HTO GAOL AS COMMON CRIMINAL It has always been a craze of mine to walk long distances. Among my many walks 1 have walked from Shanghai to Nanking, Tientsin to Peiping, and Canton to Kowloon. My latest was from Titnetsin to Tsinanfu (writes in the ‘ Tsingtao Times’). 1 started on July 17, 1937. From the Central Station I started my long walk in earnest. After partaking of a bowl of white bean milk, a really strengthening and refreshing beverage, 1 started off just as 1 was, dressed in a sports shirt and khaki trousers and a yankee naval cap, a few cigarettes, a box of matches, and a handkerchief, but no papers whatsoever.

1 followed the rail track. For four days 1 did this, stopping at the permanent way depots to rest and to partake of a drink of water. All the way to Tsinanfu I was never in want of water, good ice-cool well water that was most welcome. I then came across a roadway which crossed the tracks, and I inquired of a passer-by as to where it might lend. When lie told me that it was the bus route to Tsinanfu I decided to follow same, as following the rails was beginning to pall on me, with its monotony. I was glad that I did so, as. by following this bus route, I ipassed through more little towns and villages than I would have done by the rail track. I sometimes turned off the bus route and took to smaller pathways, always remembering on which hand the railway ran. Thus I never lost my way once, although on many occasions 1 trudged miles to gain the railway lino or bus route when 1 thought that 1 had lost my way. The days that followed were most uncomfortably hot, and I did most of my walking from daylight till about 10, and then on the evening from 5 till about 10; 1 had the advantage of clear moonlight nights. I struck the Grand Canal at intervals, at which times I took advantage of a bath and to wash my clothes. Although the water is the colour of coffee and milk, yet it was refreshing to dip oneself once in a while.

I would like to say a few words in praise of the Chinese soldier. He is not the rowdy, ignorant coolie ns one is so often led to believe. At all the big towns there were numerous soldiers, with whom I conversed, all of whom seemed quite intelligent and always eager for news. They were patriotic to a man. At one place, while I was resting, a group of them approached me, including a sergeant, and began questioning me in the usual manner, as to where I came from and to where I was bound for. They expressed great surprise when 1 told them that 1 was walking to Tsinanfu—l was about halfway on my journey then. I told them that I was China-born, and all about Shanghai and Tientsin. They were good listeners, and were very enthusiastic on all that I could tell them. Before departing to resume my walk the sergeant brought me enough mantou (Chinese bread) to last me a couple of days, and also made me there and then eat some macaroni and drink some refreshingly hot tea.

All along the way they were the same, so were the town and country people. 1 did not want for food or drink most of the trip.

I had been on the road now for six clays when I approached a fairly largo city with factories, hospitals, etc. The name of this place was Data. i wanted badly to call on a hospital, as my lips were swollen and cracked through constant exposure to sun, wind, and water. 1 was told there was a large American hospital in the edge of the city, and after many twists and turns through the congested streets 1 found the place, a large picturesque building in a fairy land of a garden profuse with flowers and large shady trees; an ideal spot for a hospital. There were no foreigners in the institution, all of them were holidaying at Pei-tai-ho and elsewhere. But the physician in charge was a Cantonese who could speak English. 1 told him what I came for, saying that I was on a walking tour. He made up an ointment for my lips, and also handed me about 10 shillings, saying that they might come in useful. On the tenth and last days of my hike 1 did over a hundred li, as 1 was determined to reach Tsinanfu before sundown, and I did. That evening, while strolling along towards my lodging house, as it was commencing to rain.again, 1 was accosted by a Russian who could speak a little English, who said he was very hungry and asked Ime for a meal. As others help me, so do I help if it is within my power. It was about 9 o’clock, and the rain was falling fast, i brought him to a restaurant and told him to order what he wanted. After he had his fill I took out my money, about £l, and paid the account, which amounted to three shillings. He then accompanied me for a 1 little way, when 1 told him 1 was going to turn in and sleep. It was raining hard, and the street was deserted. All of a sudden I felt a hard blow on the jaw and down I wont, my head dizzy. ' When i fully regained my senses 1 was lying in the muddy road hut my companion was nowhere in view. I instinctively put my hand in my pocket, and, as 1 feared, my money was gone. I was in rather a sorry predicament, wet, muddy, and desperate. I decided at last to report the theft to the nearest policeman. I found one a block away and related what had happened, lie brought me to the station, where 1 explained my predicament. The man in charge questioned me closely, and when he discovered that 1 had no identification papers he had me detained for the night, placing me in a comparatively clean cell. Early next morning I appeared before another police official, who started to grill me 1 do not understand the Chinese language perfectly, and after much whispering with his subordinate he said something to the policeman guarding me, who led me away to where I knew not. But 1 very soon did know, for he led me to a coinpound and instructed! one of the prisoners at work to place leg shackles on to me. 1 strongly protested, but it was to no avail. One prisoner made me sit down and another placed one foot on to an anvil and rivetted the ring around my ankle; it was the same with the other foot. The anklets were about 2in wide and an eighth of an inch thick, and between these anklets