AUSTERITY SUITS

Dominion, Volume 37, Issue 114, 9 February 1944, Page 8

AUSTERITY SUITS

Abolition In England

N.Z. TAILORS’ HOPES

Dominion Special Service. AUCKLAND. February 7. In view of the abolition of austerity suits in Britain, which took effect from February 1. Auckland tailors are hopeful that New Zealand will soon follow this example and so end what many described as a farcical situation. The regulations have never been popular with tailoring establishments, and it is contended that no real saving lias been effected. , , , Several tailors expressed the. hope that reasonable notice would be given if and when the restrictions were, lifted. Material supplies have been more plentiful recently, and many establishments expect to carry fairly heavy stocks of austerity suits shortly. Naturally they do not want to be saddled with large quantities of .austerity suits when normal tailoring is resumed. * . There appeared to be nothing in the regulations to prevent the purchaser of a ready-made austerity suit from taking it to a tailor, who could add all the little extras which so many men desire in a suit, it was stated. Not .only was this a waste of labour, but it added considerably to .the cost to the consumer. One tailor estimated that to insert a ticket-pocket in a coat would eost.L/b. Other common additions which were being done by tailors were: Shorten sleeves and'sew on buttons, 3/6; unaka and fit back-strap to ’waistcoat. 3/b: inside - pocket in waistcoat, 3/6; fobpocket, in trousers. 2/6: shorten trousers and make full cuffs. 4/-. The total added cost to the customer, therefore, was 19/6, while all this work could be done for about one-third ot this nrice if it were carried out while the suit was being made. All tailors carried stocks of odd trimmings to make these additions. Many establishments, particularly the smaller shops, had been asked to do a great deal of this type of work lately. Tailors received ojd. per lb. for scraps. An alternative scheme was ■ put forward by one tailor. He suggested that there should be a standard cloth, made in New Zealand mills, trimmings-should be sold at a standard price, and there should be standard values for both the tailor and the factory.' Ji was pointed out that, on a conservative estimate, tailors provided 30 per cent, of the clothes worn by civilians. If the Government were to insist on austerity suits much longer, many would not be able to carry on. as customers would turn more and more to ; ready-made austerity suits.

Saving In Material “I have been informed that the emergency specifications mean to New Zealand an overall saving equivalent to 30.000. suits a year,” said'the Minister of Industries ap'd Commerce, Mr. Sullivan, when he was asked in Christchurch if the-en-forcement of “austerity suit specifications was to continue. Mr. Sullivan s .attention was drawn-to a report in Aus-, tralian newspapers that the .making ot “austerity” suits was. to' edase in Britain as from the beginning of this month. Mr. Sullivan said he was always ready to examine the question, but he had been advised that the adoption of the austerity specifications had made another 30.000 suits a year available to New Zealanders. It was true that in the case of bespoke tailors; adherence to the specifications meant an actual waste of some material, but there was a big saving in clothing made by manufacturers. If the bespoke, tailors were exempt, trade would go- to them from the manufacturers, with the result that the saving of material wopld be reduced. The difference between the position of New Zealand and that of Britain was that New Zealand was an importer, of . material and Britain a manufacturer.