LIFE IN PEIPING

Dominion, Volume 30, Issue 189, 7 May 1937, Page 12

LIFE IN PEIPING

Visitor to New Zealand Tells a Story “I love the place, and I am glad to pass on some of my experiences to others who are interested,” said Mrs. Guy Hillier, a visitor to New Zealand, who has travelled in many countries but has lived the greater part of her life in Pekin —or as it is now know, “Peiping.” Many visitors to the East call only at the southern ports of China and pass on to Japan or elsewhere, which is a great pity, Mrs. Hillier considers, for Peiping has been for centuries the capital, and holds the key to the history and the real life of China. Its history first became known in Europe through the writings of Marco Polo (about the time Magna Charta was signed), but his stories of life in China under the Mongols were for many years regarded as mere travellers’ tales. The reign of the Mongols was followed by the Ming dynasty, when the arts flourished, tiie city was rebuilt, and many temples, including the Temple of Heaven, were built, as well as the great wall of- China. In 1665 the Manehus became supreme, and during their rule the knowledge of the sciences and all branches of learning spread, and many new arts, such as the making of clocks, astronomical instruments and French enamels, introduced by the Jesuits, flourished.

When Mrs. Hillier first went there in 1907, some of the glamour of the old Manchu court still remained; the sedan chairs, preceded by runners, the muledrawn carts —which had no springs and were very uncomfortable to English ideas, and occasionally a decorated litter from inland, were to be seen in the streets. Many temples outside the city had rooms for guests, and a week-end spent at one of these temples, about three miles from the city, was a respite from busy city life often enjoyed by British residents.

Mrs. Hillier spoke of the rivalries and dissensions of later years, the establishment of the republic in 1911, the 12 days’ reign in 1917 of Pitt Yi, whom General Chang llsun placed on the throne, tile re-establishment of the republic and the battle of Peking, and of the personal experiences of herself and her husband during those troublous times.

She described as something she would never forget the reception given by the former Emperor on the morning after his marriage. He stood with his beautiful Manchu bride in the courtyard of the palace, with princes of the royal blood grouped behind. lie offered good wishes to the visitors in English, and drank their health, and they then drank also. Then to the accompaniment of ancient music, slowly came the ranks of officials dressed in tiie old court uniforms ami made their abeisance. “But the dignity, decorum and magnificent ceremonial have passed,” Mrs. Hillier said sadly. "Now soldiers are billeted in the temples, grass grows on the imperial roof, the Temple of Heaven has lost its religious significance, and in the schools obeisance must now be made to the founder of the republic. Sun Yat Sen—surely a poor substitute for the great sage Confucius.” Mrs. Hillier, who has been on a visit to Europe, will leave on her return to China in a fortnight.