The 1936 Spring Coats are Built on Coat-Frock Lines

Dominion, Volume 29, Issue 304, 19 September 1936, Page 23

The 1936 Spring Coats are Built on Coat-Frock Lines

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QKETCHED this week you will see the *"• spring coat that embodies all that is best of the season’s coats. Its gay romanticism is achieved by a slim fitting silhouette primly buttoned in the centre front, wide padded sleeves, i juvenile turn-down collar and nonchalant patch pockets. Made up in navy woollen with a decorative wavy weave, it is the sort of coat that could go anywhere, over anything. Try it with your 1800 floral print, or on cooler days over your knitted suit. Accent with white or wear it over pastel pink, pale blue or matching navy. The 1930 spring coats are often built on coat-frock lines, and might almost tie worn as such. Take, for instance, a light black woollen by Worth. He makes a plain back and a pleated front—wide, impressed pleats are stitched snugly over bodice and hips—raglan sleeves with turn-back cuffs and a simple turndown collar. -A wide mustard colour

ed belt of cire kid matches a mustard turban, the whole having a dressy, afternoon air. The vogue for fitted coats is emphasised by Schiaparelli, who endorses the .hourglass figure. By putting at the waist quantities of small tucks, darts or gores,, she makes it appear much smaller than if really is. > Pockets are placed so as to accentuate without widening the hips and bosom. Shoulders are broad. Schiaparelli also launches high-waisted coats which will certainly make fashion history. She . sometimes indicates the yoke and waistline with decorative quilting, or she makes a collarless, black coat which has enormous breadth of shoulder. For town or for afternoon wear these full-length coats worn over very simple frocks play the star part in the early spring picture. A stunning fitted coat by Maggy Rouff, cut oh-practical lines, yet very dressy, is a white corduroy which has extremely wide sleeves, no collar and a slim silhouette fastened with beaver buttons from neck to hem. A' beaver scarf is tied round the neck when the wind is cold. Beaver brown gloves match the plain brown jersey frock that goes underneath. ’ ’ Is direct contrast to these slim sil houettes are the swagger lines featured for sports. Last week I described to you the camel's hair American coats I

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had seen with slit back panels. Another collection seen during the last few days used the same material in pastel colours to make adorable three quarter-length swagger coats with flaring backs and ample front revere, and with straight, slim skirts to match. Another camel’s hair travelling coat had very wide lapels and a cross-over front with belt pulled through slots and buckled at the side front. This is an indication of many side-fastening coats to be shown in later collections. Already there are reports of Parisian coat-frocks that wrap over to one side. Often they button on the shoulder or under one arm. Sometimes they are worn open in one-rever effect, showing a contrasting scarf or plastron This Idea of treating one’s coat as a dress is a refreshing one which has suggested many flattering new neck ar lieen

used advantageously by Chanel, who makes washable cravats of pique, stafched linen or other light fabrics and pulls the ends through slits placed high oil the chest. Other, dark coats have “loop-the-loop” collars of white, or wide White revers covering the coat revers. Again the much-boosted Margot ruff is enchanting when peeping from a collarless neckline.

Also noted this week is the sort of suit you should take on your first country wefek-end abd wear afterwards for sports or a morning’s shopping. The model sketched was of hunting pink Munro tweed-ia gay and lovely colour for fresh, spring days. Another suit made with clever double seaming and jutting hip pockets was of a heather mixture tweed in amethyst shades. I’iolet, mauve, amethyst, mushroom pink and grege are ell new and charming colours in wool. Checked tweeds come iu new colour assortments, the shades intermingling in a basket weave. The richness of their colouring makes it possible to combine them with ninny tones. Mushroom pink is luscious with brown, violet with lime-green or yellow, mauve with pink or blue. Apropos of colour, have you seen the new lipstick red handkerchiefs of fine hemstitched linen? They have embroidered across one corner “Pour le rouge” —a grand idea either for removing lip-