EVEREST EXPEDITION RETURNING

Dominion, Volume 29, Issue 223, 17 June 1936, Page 11

EVEREST EXPEDITION RETURNING

“Not Given a Single Chance”

NEW ROUTE FOR FUTURE OCCASION

By Telegraph—Press Assn.—Copyright.

London, June 15.

In a copyright message from Camp 1, Mr. Hugh Ruttledge, leader of the Everest Expedition, says:—

“The expedition must now depart Deep snow lies everywhere, rendering a further effort useless, although Messrs. Smythe and Wyn Harris have discovered a route which 1 am convinced will be of great value on a future occasion. Unhappily it has been made in a season in which Everest has not given us a single chance. “Seven climbers who ascended the icefall on the west side of the North Col were prevented from examining the upper slope by clouds. Already there is evidence that the monsoon is so severe and the snow so deep that Everest is unclimbable this year. Messrs. Smythe and Wyn Harris yesterday took advantage of a temporary lull to take a light camp to a point previously attained just out of reach of avalanches, which are constantly pouring off the North Col. A rush of air from one avalanche nearly blew down their tent during the night. This morning they obtained a clear view of the slopes to the crest, and although the snow was too dangerous for them to make an ascent they were satisfied that, given certain conditions, a safer and more direct route could be made on this side. “Mr. Smith Windham and I, with porters, went half-way up the icefall and formed' a similar opinion.” Sir Percy Cox, chairman of the Everest committee, commenting on this telegram, says that the committee’s regret will be shared by Britons throughout the world, as the conquest of Mt. Everest has become a national enterprise on which all hearts are set The splendid composition and equipment of the expedition justified every hope as far as human agencies were concerned, but the early monsoon and heavy snowfall, by preventing reoccupation of the North Col, which originally was occupied with unusual ease a week ahead of schedule, produced impossible conditions which no previous expedition had ever suffered.

The committee is telegraphing to Mr. Ruttledge sympathising with his lamentable ill-fortune, recognising that no leadership and mountaineering skill could have averted the result, and congratulating the members on emerging from critical experiences without a casualty.