EVEREST ESCAPE

Dominion, Volume 29, Issue 217, 10 June 1936, Page 9

EVEREST ESCAPE

Avalanche Breaks Away Under Climbers ONE SAVES OTHER Party Abandons Attempt For 1936 WILL EXAMINE ANOTHER ROUTE fly 'Telegraph—Press Assn.—Copyright (Received June 9. 5.3 pm.) London, June 9. A copyright message from Mr. Hugh Kuttledge, the leader of the Everest expedition, at Camp One, on June 8, states that Messrs. Wyn Harris and Shipton narrowly escaped with their lives during a daring reconnaissance, after which it wag decided to abandon the attempt for 1930. After the abortive attempt on June 6 to reoccupy Camp 4, a tremendous north-westerly wind continued to sweep Everest, causing the north face, with the treacherous north col slopes, to become obviously uncllmbable. Sheets of snow were flying across the slopes, causing a debate in the camp whether, after a cold night followed by brilliant sun and incessant wind, we should find the snow safe. Harris and Shipton undertook to risk an inspection. They safely scaled the first 500 feet of the direct steep upward ascent in the old track. Then begun a horizontal traverse to the loft •which we had always suspected to be. dangerous, although the angle of the enow was only moderate. The surface was hard and good. . Without the slightest warning there came a rippling sound. The snowfield split across the surface, breaking up into iceblocks, and began sliding down toward the edge of a 400-foot Ice cliff just below. Shipton was quietly and Irresistibly carried away but Harris who was behind and nearer the top edge of the avalanche, made a tremendous effort to leap back to the edge of a crevasse on the lip of which he jammed his axe and secured his rope on to it, pulling Shipton back sidewavs from the sliding ice. The rope tautened and was beginning to pull the axe out when the avalanche stopped just before pouring over the ice wall. Harris’s prompt action certainly saved them both. Meanwhile another avalanche more to the left broke away independently. Shipton, who was completely winded by the pressure of the rope, and Harris got down safely. Their bold investigation confirmed beyond possible doubt the risk of tampering with the north col slopes once the monsoon air currents have begun to decay them. But for this reconnaissance the whole climbing party and porters would have made another attempt to reoccupy Camp 4. The result could only been disastrous. Therefore the attempt on Everest by the only known route must be abandoned for 1936. It Is terribly disappointing, with the mountain now belatedly in good condition and an absolutely first-rate party ready for the attack. However it would be criminal to send them within reach of an avalanche or that terrible Icefield. As a last effort we are starting up the main Rongbuk Glacier to-day in order to examine the west side of the north col, but as Mallory decided against trying It in 1931 and Shipton s party disliked the look of it last year I cannot be optimistic.