TRAVEL IN THE SOUTH SEAS

Dominion, Volume 29, Issue 208, 30 May 1936, Page 25

TRAVEL IN THE SOUTH SEAS

Customs and Culture of the Islanders

“Sudsee,” an account of travels in the South Seas, by Dr. Hugo Adolf Bernatzik, translated from the German by Vivian Ogilvie (London; Constable).

Eminent as an ethnologist and anthropologist, Dr. Bernatzik in this book contents himself with giving a vivid and interesting account of his observations and experiences among the islanders of the Solomons, New Guinea, and Bali. “Sudsee” is a fascinating potboiler. Those deeply interested in ethnology and anthropology may be disappointed by the author’s cursory references to his scientific observations and deductions, but in a preface he explains he has embodied these in another work; he leaves this book to those who would but have the pleasure of unknown and far-distant countries brought before them in an interesting manner and by a facile pen. Dr. Bernatzik has taken great pains to delve into the ancient customs and culture of his islanders, consorting with the elders and priests of the tribes and meeting the common pieople on their own terms The vein of humorous incident and the excellence of informal diction help to hold the fireside adventurer's interest from tiie beginning. The most remarkable feature ot the book are the reproductions of the author's camera studies. His flair for photographing the unposed movements of the islanders in their work, piay, and dances possesses the qualities of genius, and by these studies alone a clear and fascinating impression is received of the life and customs of these people. Through a German, who, after coming to one of the Solomon Islands and marrying a native woman, had begun a reign of unrestrained despotism, Dr. Bernatzik meets and makes friends with various chiefs and high priests, who unveil much of their ancient; lore to him. The spirit world is very real and forceful to the Solomon Islanders, and their life is closely bound up with religion. No ceremony, however mundane, i.s complete without its religious accompaniment, and even those people converted to Christianity need little encouragement to talk of the spirit familiars of their ancient belief. The priests are the real rulers of the tribes and the author throws a new light upon these "witch-doctors,” depicting them with few exceptions, as ''good and honour- ■ able men who firmly believe in their supernatural powers and do everything they can to help and advise their trusting feliow-clansmen.” This conclusion j is quite different from the popular European belief that they are nothing but humbugs, anxious to deceive the islanders for material advantage. The islanders’ dances, extraordinary in their grace and interpretation, their work and excursions for food, moral outlook, their games and sports, are cleverly portrayed. But it i.s a great disappointment to the author that, in spite of many encouraging reports, he is unable to find tiny of the peoples in tliis Solomon group untouched by European civilisation. Their culture has been partially destroyed by the advent of the white man and the high death rate resulting from their inability to withstand European diseases presents a grave problem to those interested in the welfare of these happy islanders.

At Port Moresby, capital of Australian administered Papua, however, Dr Bernatzik finds that Sir Hubert Murray has interested himself iu this question, and .the author speaks highly of the work being done to stem the death rate by the experiment of incorporating the natives, their customs, habits, aud the whole of their natural environment, so to speak, in the European civilisation. Though not increasing, the population is at least holding its own.

Dr. Bernatzik’s account of his sojourn in New Guinea is written with more continuity, enthusiasm, and detail, than are his Solomon Islands experiences In his search for tribes untouched by European influences, he goes by 'plane into the almost unknown interior. To his delight lie finds natives still living in the Stone Age and meets tribes speaking a language unknown to ethnologists and who have never before seen a white man. They are true Papuans, different from the coastal tribes, and belong to the second oldest cultural group of New Guinea, having immigrated at a time when the island was still joined to Asia by a bridge of land. But though they are a primitive people, their agriculture, which is their main pursuit, is of an extraordinarily high development, being much more advanced than the cultivation practised.by the Melanesians. .

On a second journey into the interior, Dr. Bernatzik finds a series of tree-top villages where the dialectal distinctions arc so numerous that the inhabitants oi one village might not be able to understand those of a village only two days march away. Because of this and the villagers’ practice of killing every stranger on sight, only the closest bipod relationship is held to forbid marriage, and in some of the villages even this prohibition is little regarded. As a result there are many cases of degeneracy — cripples, achondroplasic dwarfs, and bad epileptics. Bali, the Isle of Enchantment, is visited. But, instead of wonder, it excites disappointment so long as the author remains among flic coastal people. The interior is different, however, and he contrasts vividly the tour-ist-ridden coast, where the natives, by imitating and adapting a cheap European culture, have lost ail the interesting individuality of their forefathers, with the natural charm of the inland, where the ancient culture of India, China, and Africa still prevails. The author is intoxicated Dy its beauty. “Sudsee” is one of the most exhilarating contributions to Pacific Island literature in recent years; it is certainly the best illustrated.