GLADIOLI FOR SHOW

Dominion, Volume 28, Issue 33, 2 November 1934, Page 18

GLADIOLI FOR SHOW

Some Special Aids

Gladioli love moisture, and when the plants appear through the soil frequent shallow hoeings will serve to kill the weeds and conserve moisture. In America growers of gladioli sometimes cover their beds with half-inch layer of sand, this creating a sort of dust mulch to retain the moisture. A surface mulch of well-rotted horse manure gives all the advantages of a sand mulch and is still more helpful to the plants. Watering will be necessary if the weather is dry, but it should only be resorted to if really essential, as it is difficult to stop without ill-effect accruing when once begun. Always, when watering, give a generous supply. It is far better to give the plants a good soaking—a two-gallon canful for every clump of three to five—once every ten days or fortnight, than to apply sparingly every three or four days. Always stir the soil with a hoe the day after watering, never allowing the surface to become hard and cracked.

Commence feeding when the flower ipike can be felt, but use care to avoid catLsing rank growth. Animal manures are specially useful to gladioli, and liquid animal and soot manure is, when diluted, as good as any other form of fertilizer. Give a weekly dose of two pints per plant. Bone-meal is very safe, too, if lightly dusted on the soil and hoed in occasionally. It provides nourishment over a long period. Stake as soon as the plants have reached such a height that there is a danger of their becoming snapped off by wind. A good method in the case of individual staking is to push a thin, but strong, stick or cane into the soil 21ns. out from the stem to avoid the corm and on the opposite side to which tlie flowers will face. A couple of raffia ties, one just underneath the bottom floret and another about 4ins. or 51ns. from the top, will make all quite secure. When growing in rows the best method is to drive a stake in at each end of the row, pass strands of string on each side of. the row. jjnd fasten them to the stakes'. OUTDOOR TOMATOES Time to Plant The first week in November is the best time to plant in nearly all places, the exceptions being extra warm localities where there is no frost. It is a great mistake to plant too early. The plants cannot make growth until the soil becomes warm and continues so. It is bettor to keep the plants in the boxes in a sheltered position until favourable conditions obtain than to plant when they can make no growth to speak of and are liable to severe checks from frost or cold snaps. While in the boxes the plants improve. They may t make but little top growth, but. the plants will be hardening and roots increasing, so that when they are planted out. the plants are tough and hardy and well rooted. DAHLIAS Time to Plant Out Dahlias are now in growth. Those that were divided and bedded in to start should now be planted. Old clumps that were not taken up may be lifted and divided;. One strong shoot is sufficient to make a plant, but it is not imperative to restrict them to such narrow dimensions, unless the flowers be required to assume show form. In any ease, where they break up freely and thdy are. not lifted, a number of the growths should be chopped off. The treatment which dahlias require in the way of feeding depends largely qu the character of the soil and other circumstances. Usually it is a good plan to dig a good hole,' two spits deep, where a tuber is to be planted, and half fill it with strong stable manure. CORRESPONDENCE Answers to Inquiries Saving Ranunculi Seed. —The ranunculi should be allowed to remain in their present position until the foliage withers away. Then thev can be lifted and stored in paper bags in a cool, dry place until required again for planting. This applies to very heavy soli, but it your soil is of a light nature, you mav safely let them remain in the ground. ("Novice,” Wellington.) Sweet Pea Seed.—Sweet peas produce seeds very freely. It is advisable to allow the plants to strengthen, then, when a fair number of flowers are open at one time on the plant, allow all the seed pods to develop as they form and to remain on the plants until completely ripe. Then gather the ripened pods and put them in a linen or canvas bag to mature. Hang the bag in a warm, dry , place, where the pods will open and liberate the seeds, which can then be stored in tins or bags for the winter. (8.E.P., Lower Hutt.) Striking Rambler Rose Cuttings.— Rambler rose cuttings are usually taken in autumn, though well-ripened shoots can bo dealt with now. Such shots, about a foot in leng'th. should be detached from the parent plant with a bit of the latter attached to the cutting's , base. Pare, this heel .neatly, remove the leaves from the lower half of each’ cutting, then plant them to halt their length in light, firm soil anywhere outdoors. Ram this soil hard around them, water them in and leave them to root. They will be ready for planting out during the late autumn of next year. (Miss P. 8., Levin.) Getting Rid of Convolvulus.—Hoe or cut off the top growth of the convolvulus as often as' it appears; better still, go down after it with the fork and draw out as much as possible of the thin roots. Persist in that treatment and the convolvulus will die out. (M.W.. Karori.) Pruning a T.llac Tree. The pruning of lilacs really takes place when the flowers are gathered. The flower stems should be cut just, above points where buds nestle in the axils of the leaves, these buds developing into the following year's flowering shoots. (2) Flowering cherries should be pruned while young, and little subsequent pruning should be done. IT it is necessary to cut back a fairly large tree, the operation should be performed while in full leaf in sunnmOr to avoid gumming. (“Lilac,” Paraparaumu.) , Autumn-flowering Border Plants. The pretty little blue phacella, sedum and balsam bloom in the autumn, and may be suitable for the purpose you have in mind. The autumn crocuses would make an attractive border, but their flowering period is very short. The dwarf Pomp ore dahlias would also be effective until the arrival of Jack Frost. (“Lime Terrace,” Takapau.) Native Trees. The New Zealand cabbage tree is known In the botanical world as Cordyllne Australis. The Maori name Is Ti'-kouka. The ngaio is quite a distinct tree. The leaves you sent are of the native tfhru'b Olearia, probably the variety known as macrodonu,,