Practical Gardening

Dominion, Volume 27, Issue 58, 1 December 1933, Page 2

Practical Gardening

By

TIMELY TOPICS

THE MIDSUMMER BORDER

Hints for Beginners Never plant snapdragons in moist shady places. They belong to a dry; family and manj- a time do well if left altogether alone. « * * Sow some of the quality, dwarf nasturtium seed for autumn and winter display. Few plants work so happily as the members of this old family. *. . * ♦ Watch the earnations to see that the stems are kept snappy. When a carnation stalk will not break easily the plant is. wanting water. .# * * Hydrangeas are unusually big and beautiful this year. Keep the plants well supplied with water while the weather remains dry. To allow the soil to dry out will ruin the flowering. « * * V Anyone with a company' of small rhubarb plants should hurry up the young stock so as to have them ready for placing in the autumn. Homegrown goods are better than, some of the elder stock one sees being used. Pie plant is worth.a place in any garden where the soil is rich. ♦ * * Pinch the top out ot any zinnia plants that are making buds. Force the side growths before any flowering is permitted. Buy and sow seed of the small border zinnia, known as linearis, a bedder for the late summer and autumn, which is not easily equalled. WEEKS WITHOUT WATER Plants That Survive ’ Some plants will go for weeks and weeks without showing any distress because of lack of water. Many of these plants are succulents, such as Yuccas, American Aloes, Sedums, Portulacas, Sempervivums, Echeverias and Mesembryanthcmums. But there- are others which also seem to revel in dry conditions. You need not, for instance, take your water-can to geraniums antirrhinums, marigolds, zinnias, eschscholtzias or nasturtiums. Providing you give the soil an occasional stirring up with a hoe to prevent extreme cracking of the surface, theic will be no stinting of the display given by these plants. THIRSTY PLANTS These Must be Watered Plants which are most sensitive todry conditions, wilting after about three days of continuous Sunshine,.are the first which must be watered. Such; plants include tuberous and fibrous; Begonias, bedding Calceolarias, Petunias, Indian Pinks, Verbenas, Phlox Drummondii, herbaceous Phloxes,., Asters, Stocks, Dahlias, Paeonies, .Nico-., tianas, Spiraea, and Fuchsias. A week without rain, and-a succes-’ sion of hot, airless days will tell on the Delphiniums, Roses, Funkias, Agapanthuses, Trollius, Day Lilies, Campanulas, ' Michaelmas Daisies, Lilies, Thalictrums/ Sweet Williams, Rhododendrons and Sweet Peas. Some of the plants mentioned may have finished flowering; others will not flower for some time. But neither fact provides a reason for withholding water.

How to Prolong Summer’s Display

TASKS THAT DEMAND IMMEDIATE ATTENTION

■ Unless they receive regular attention, herbaceous borders are rather apt to look untidy and unsatisfactory as soon as the first flush of early summer'bloom is over. Besides the. more obvious duties of .staking, weeding and mulching when required, there are many, things that have to be seen to if the hardy flower border is to continue to afford a good display. Breaking up the .surface of the border after heavy rains, which always cake the soil, is a very necessary task, and if it can be followed by a light mulching with rotted manure or even lawn mowings, so that moisture may be conserved in a possible spell of hot and dry weather, so much the better for the growth of the plants.

It the border has been skilfully planted most of the unsightly gaps left by the earlier plants, such as lupins, pyrethrums and delphiniums, as they pass out of flower can be largely concealed by the judicious training and management of many of the hiter-flow-erlng things. For example, delphiniums that are running to seed should have their seeding spikes cut away to about 4ft. from the ground, and to cover their remains Clematis Flammula makes an effective screen. It can be so trained that its growths rest on the cut delphinium stalks, completely hiding them in late summer with a sheet of blossom. Many other plants lend themselves to training in this way, and tl o ingenious gardener will make the best use of the late summer occupants in order to provide an unbroken ribbon of .colour. There will always remain, however, some gaps that cannot be filled satisfactorily by this method, and it is for these that the bedding out of reserve plants is necessary. Gaps cun be filled by plunging some pots of hydrangeas that are just coming into bloom. Most of the Michaelmas daisies and the hardy border chrysanthemums can be similarly used. These wi.l lift quite well from a small reserve border if thoroughly soaked two or three days previously, and nothing is better for the purpose of filling in gaps and extending the season of enjoyment of the border. Not all the Michaelmas daisies transplant satisfactorily, however, and where some of the Novae-Angliae varie-

ties like Barr’s Pink are wanted, they should be plunged out in large pots. The decorative types of dahlias, of course, are a great stand-by for the late summer and autumn displa and where lupins, anchusas, delphiniums and such like have finished, their place should be taken by the handsome large-flowered dahlias grown on in pots. Even where there are no plants.suitably placed for training, over the remains of the earlier things, much can be done by cutting down some of the early summer flowers like delphiniums, lupins, pyrethrums and crigerons, immediately after flowering, to provide a second crop of bloom in early autumn. With this treatment, however,, the plants must have generous feeding and frequent watering if the weather is dry. With good named varieties it is not a method to be recommended, for it has a weakening effect on the clumps, und only plants raised from seed and given -ood soil ami cultivation are likely to respond without loss of vigour the following year. Plants that give as long a season ol bloom as possible, should always be generously used when planting the border. There are not many, it is true, and what there are are mostly of a lowgrowing nature: but such things as the geums, the gaillardias, Salvia, nepeta, Coreopsis grandiiloia, Iceland poppies and many violas are all too good and too long-flowering to be otetlookul when stocking the front line.

HARDY PERENNIALS FROM SEED

How to Raise Them in the Open

There arc at least three reasons why the average amateur gardener should make a point of raising his stock of perennial plants from seed. Apart from the financial saving it ensures, it is' method that is full of interest and fascination, as WMI as ond that provides plants that,'generally speaking, are more vigorous and' of better constitution and freer in flower than those pfopagated vegetatively cither from cuttings or division. There is no more inexpensive way of getting a good stock of perennials than by raising them from seed, and those faced with the stocking of new borders or the replenishment of existing ones next year, cannot, do better than set about the raising of an adequate' supply fqr future requirements. Perhaps ( the mistaken belief that they are difficult to grow from seed, or that they require facilities not usually found in the small garden has been the principal cause of why, iu the past, so few amateurs have raised their own plants. No one need hesitate, however, to try his hand with any of the ordinary run of perennials used in the furnish- I

Ing of the hardy flower border, for fear of any dlflleulties in seed-raising or treatment, for. there is none,. With a few exceptions, all are easily'raised. No special facilities are required, and there will be no risk of failure if a sheltered and partially shaded, but not too shady, position is chosen for the seed bed. which should bo prepared by deep digging. It should be enrlchened with a dressing of weli-dc-eayed manure or vegetable refuse dug in well down, if the ground is on the poor side. Seed should be sown thinly in shallow drills, and if the soil is dry it is advisable to water the drills before sowing. Occasional watering of the young seedlings during tlie growing season will be necessary if the summer should be a dry one; but beyond that, and regular hoeing between the rows to deep down weeds and loosen the surface, they demand no further attention. Carefully thinned out to ensure strong plants, the seedlings may remain in the seed-bccl all through the winter until they are ready to be moved to their permanent quarters.

For the general run of bedding plants, and border plants up to about 3ft. tall, a minimum amount of water to apply is a gallon per square yard. For taller and bushier plants, shrubs and roses at least two gallons per square yard should be given. Roses, climbers and other plants on walls should be given 4 gallons per square yard.

Wood ash, if kept dry, contains about 10 or 12 per cent, of potash and should be used as a top-dressing for peas, beans, sweet peas, or roses. The refuse from all garden fires is invaluable for top-dressing rose beds or a sweet pea plot. Leguminous crops need a supply of potash to increase the quantity or Improve the quality of the produce, and wood ash can be used instead of sulphate of potash. As a rule, a dressing of wood ash improves the quality of roses and prevents attacks of mildew. If the remains of garden fires be mixed with light soil it makes the latter more retentive of moisture.

WHAT TO PLANT

CELERIAC FOR HEALTH

A Quick Reference Guide

Plant Seedlings Now

Vegetables.—Sow in open ground: Beans (French and wax), beetroot, carrot, cauliflower, cress, cucumber, herbs, leek, lettuce, melons, mustard, pens, pumpkins, radish, spinach, squash, sweet corn, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, turnips, and vegetable marrow. Flowers. —Sow antirrhinum, aster, balsam, begonia, calendula, candytuft, cosmos, dianthus, didiscus, dimorphotlieen, eschsclioltzia, gaillardias, kochia, marigold, mesembryantbemura, petunia, phlox, portulacn, salpiglossis, salvia, sunflower, zinnia. Plant Out.—Seedlings of all summer annuals, begonias, chrysanthemums, dahlias, perennial asters, ferns, belladonna lily, nerine, passion fruit.

Celeriac seedlings from boxes may now be planted in well-cultivated and manured ground. No trenches are required, the plants simply being set, a foot, apart, on the surface, with eighteen inches between the rows. After watering-in, they will be kept supplied with moisture through the summer, removing all growths emanating front the root-stock and retaining only the central leaves, the Object being, to direct the plant’s energies toward the develop-, nient of shapely roots, for which this crop is grown. ■ ' .

ANNUALS AND ROSES

Some Useful Combinations Mass as many seedling phlox, together as you can find room for, at about six inches apart. Put the young things in among the roses, use them for bordering the dahlia "beds-, till some of the rockery pockets, ami do all that is possible to work up the brilliant display which this, hardy old annual is able to provide with a little encouragement. .Many fussy amateurs dislike bedding any annuals near their roses. Don’t take any notice of that company. Rose plants that are allowed to grow alone will never do so well as those which share the good things of life with some other members of the' flowering plant fraternity. While you are feeding and watering the bedding carnations, dianthus, short snapdragons, phlox, or minor marigolds, you are also feeding your rose plants. Any of the less vigorous summer and autumn workers will not harm the queen of flowers. Plants that do their best work while the roses are dormant in the winter time should not be used. Plants that are practically asleep should not be disturbed.

ORNAMENTAL GOURDS

Easily Raised from Seed

Ornamental Gourds are so easy to grow in the garden that it is surprising they arc so seldom seen. No special soil or attention is required, and anyone who can grow marrows—which are also gourds-r-can successfully raise those gourds, which are used for decorative rather than culinary purposes.

The gourd, like the marrow, is an annual and must be grown from seed each season. As it is also only halfhardy and is killed by frost, plants cannot be put out until November. The best way of raising these gourds is to sow seed now in tbe place where the plants are to remain. Seed is obtainable from several prominent nurserymen, and a packet of “mixed ornamental” will produce some charming types.

The soil should have been well dug. but need not be richly manured, ami the seeds should be put in about i-inch deep. Many positions are suitable, such as a low fence or wall, for the' plants to scramble over, or the plants will clothe an arch quickly with their beautiful foliage. They can also be planted at the base of strong poles, or even on the ground at tbe top of a high bank so that they can ramble downwards. They need sunshine and moisture, and plenty of witter will bo needed if a rainless period occurs. Liquid manure can be gi.en when the fruits are well formed, but not earlier or foliage will be grown at the expense of fruit. Many gourds swell to an immense

Helpful Hints for Amateur Growers

“The Hoe

THE KITCHEN GARDEN

Work for the Week

While early sowings of root crops are rapidly approaching maturity, a fairly liberal main crop sowing may again be made now in gardens where water is plentiful. Many gardeners sow in August or September and again in November and December, sowing earlier in warm districts and 'light soils, and later in cool districts and heavier soils. Carrots, parsnips, and beet may be sown in ground liberally mtinured for a prevous- crop, and at some previous time trenched to a twospade depth. A mixture of equal parts of old soot and wood ashes may be forked into the surface spit, or at the rate of a half-handful to the square yard. The thinning out of a late erdp requires some judgment. A wet day or evening should be chosen, or when the soil is wetted after a watering. After thinning it is helpful to dust the remaining plants with well-aired soot. A few hours' later, when the ground is .somewhat drier, the carrots may be slightly earthed up. and while growing the soil on each side of the rows must be regularly cultivated. Ground required for celery may now be prepared by deep digging and liberal manuring. Sucecssional sowings of French and climbing beans, lettuce, mustard, and cress may be made, but the main effort should lie in keeping the established vegetables moving in growth. The dry early Summer is testing the gardener as well as the garden, and regular watering and cultivation take up leisure time.

CORRESPONDENCE

Answers to Inquiries

Paeonies Not Flowering;.—die failure of buds to swell and ripen is probably due in your case to Jack of moisture. Give the plants a liberal top-dressing of old mnnnre or leaf mould. Also give a good soaking of liquid manure this month to help build up the flowering crowns — (Miss D.E., Lower Hutt). Propagating Khodendrons.—Most of the large-leaved .Rhododendrons cannot be propagated satisfactorily by cuttings; the usual methods of increase are grafting and layering. The few kinds it is possible to increase by cuttings arc the hybrids of Rhododendron caucasieum. March is the best time to insert the cuttings made of the growths of the same year with a thin heel of old wood. Insert in a,close frame in sandy, peat, with bottom heat if this is available. —(Puzzled,” Otaki). Destroying Wireworms.—lt is difficult to eradicate wireworms just now when seeds and plants are in the ground. The best plan' is either to sterilise, the soil in spring or to lime it well, applying at least 1 pound of quicklime per square yard in winter. Thon, in spring, a month before cropping, fork in a soil fumigant or 3 ounces crude naphthalene per square yard. At this time ibury a'carrot near each plant and examine it weekly and kill the pests on it. Also roe in soot; and when -watering plants, colour the water- rose-red by permanganate of ■ potash, a pinch to the gallon.—(K.P.R., Wanganui).

A Madonna' Lily Trouble. .The leaves and flower buds of Madonna Lilies sometimes turn 'brown as a result of tod much manure in their, soil. To correct this trouble, sprinkle the ground with powdered chalk or common whitening and hoe it .in. Then apply a dose of sulphate of Iron. Dissolve this chemical in , water at the rate of J oz. per/.gallon and sprinkle the solution freely on. the soil round ; the plants. It will destroy any disease there may possibly bo present and act also as a stimulant Io fresh growth in the Lilies.— (Mrs. D., Wellington).

Ursinias tire very pretty plants for sunny positions and make a bold splash of colour with their starry, daisy-like flowers. The foliage is light and feathery, giving the plants a delicate setting. Ursinias are half hardy annuals. The seed soon germinates in a cold frame. The seedlings, should be pricked off when large enough and planted from 9to 12 s inches apart. The predominating colour is orange.

THE CALICO BUSII A Desirable Shrub Why is Kalmia latifolia, one of the loveliest shrubs, so rarely seen in gardens? The exquisite rose-pink, waxlike flowers grow in crowded corymbs ami when a good bush is well-covered it is indeed a thing of beauty. The evergreen leaves are not. unlike those of the Rhododendron. The plant likes a moist position and thrives in a peaty soil, although this is not essential. So uncommon is this prince among fiowererlng shrubs that it seems quite exceptional for a visitor to recognise it as an old friend, but after exclamations of delight, the question nearly always is “What is this lovely thing?” Kalmia latifolia can be propagated by seed, or by cuttings of young shoots, inserted (for preference) in* sandy peat, in a shady place under a handglass. As Kalmia is somewhat slow growing, however, a little expenditure on young plants from a reliable grower is a sound investment.

PARSLEY FOR WINTER

Make a Sowing Now In the rush of bedding operations ths sowing ot‘, winter parsley is apt to be overlooked; this Rowing can be made now. Well-prepared soil should be chosen; if the ground is heavy, plenty of mortar rubble may be worked in it. Light soil will be improved by giving it a good treading before sowing The seeds can bo put iu in drills 12 inches apart, or broadcast. Remember, however, that parsley dislikes being cramped, so when the seedlings are up, thiu them out to 6 Inches apart if they are in drills, or 9 inches apart each way if the seeds were sown broadcast. If dry weather follows the sowing it is Important to water the soil, keeping it moist until the seeds germinate. After one watering further work can be saved for a considerable time by covering the seed-bed with a sack to shade the soil from the sun.