PRACTICAL GARDENING

Dominion, Volume 27, Issue 34, 3 November 1933, Page 2

PRACTICAL GARDENING

Helpful Hints for Amateur Growers

Sv “

“The Hoe”

MOST POPULAR ROSES Australia’s Choice The most popular roses in Australia, as revealed by a plebiscite conducted by the “Argus” (Melbourne), are asfollow: — twelve garden roses. I—Lorraine Lee. 2 —Etoile de Hollande. 3.—-Dame Edith Helen. 4_Qbateau de Glos Vougeot. s_Golden Emblem. G_sunny South. 7. -Ophelia. 8. —Mme. Abel Chatenay. 9. —Shot Silk. 10. —jlmc. Butterfly. H_Mrs. Herbert Stevens. 12 Dawn. SIX CLIMBING ROSES. 1. Black Boy. 2. Miss Marion Manifold. 3. Cl. Ophplia. 4 Cl, Chateau dp Clqs Vougeot. s'—Paul’s Scarlet Climber. . G_Cl. Lady Hillingdon. HUNT FOR SLUGS Evening Pastime If the weather is moist, the narticulurly the little grey ones—will be at work before the light has quite You’ve got to keep at It with those slugs, and the way we do it is to take the end of the Dutch hoe handle to them. It saves a lot of back-aching work and, with a little practice, you can make sure of each slug, Have you contracted the grape fruit habit for breakfast? Y'all have? Then use the empty half skins as slug catchers. They are rather better than orange peel, dried bran, or lettuce leaves, or anything else we know. Place the half skins hollow side rlown and raise them lin. on one side on a stone or soil lump. . About a couple of hours after nightfall, if you take a lamp, you will find slugs there iu plenty.

IN THE FLOWER GARDEN' The Week’s Work In the flower borders, ranunculuses and anemones are at the height of theif flowering. Watering will be necessary in all soils to keep them in full bloom over some weeks longer. Gladioli conns planted a month ago are now well through the ground. They do not require further help than tho regular hoeing of the surface inch of soil about once a week. The soil fertility in both flower and vegetable garden will increase rapidly if some spare time can be given to hoeing the surface one or two inches of soil after rain or about once in 10 days, Hydrangeas are growing rapidly and a light dressing of superphosphate and bonedust mixed in equal parts will help growth and the formation of flowers on the modern varieties such as Parsival, Goliath, and. others. Where it is desired to strengthen the colour of the blue varieties such as Goliath and Blue I’rlnce. tho plants may be watered once a week with alum water, using a handful of common alum in a watering-can (or a gallon) of wateL But this mixture if used on naturally deep rose-pink coloured varieties such as Rubis will have the effect of turning the colour to a muddy pink. Irises are making tiie garden glad, their silver-grey, swordlike foliage upstanding and robust, their exquisite flowers opening into bloom. Seeds of all summer annuals may be sown now, including asters, zinnias, antirrhinums, stocks, celosia, phlox Drummondii, salpiglossis, titUonia, annual galllardia, dahlias, Cenfcaurea Imperialls (Sweet Sultan), and Didiscus coernleus (blue lace flower).

FOR EDGINGS

Quick-growing ' Flowers

BEGINNERS’ MISTAKES

How Not to Do It

Have you a border which lacks an edging? If so, there are many gay little flowering plants which, sown now, will be in flower in from six weeks’ time. If is, however, at the edge of a border that stones and lumps of earth collect when the soil is being raked over or hoed, This condition must be altered if the seed-sowing is to be a success. Remove the rough stuff, if necessary, and substitute fine soil from, say, the kitchen garden. Or else <Jo a bit of vigorous hoeing and chopping to break down the lumps finely. With the soil nicely fined you can sow the seeds. If you like masses of tiny flowers in a variety of bright colours, but a packet of mixed Virginian Stock. Cover iu the seeds from sight not bury tiieni —and finish Vff by giving a sprinkling of water from a rosed can. So long as you don’t sow too thickly there -will be no need to thin put the seedlings, If you favour golden-orange’flowers on Gin. high plants consisting of finelycut foliage, sow the French Marigold, Tagetes signata pumila. These may peed thinning to abopt Cins. apart. A massed effect of white, or pink, blooms can be obtained by sowing dwarf Candytuft, which grows only a few inches high. Sow in a thin line, or a broad band, according to the width of the edging desired, and thin out the seedlings to a few inches apart when they appear. The dwarf Coreopsis, which grows no more tlian Oin. high, is an excellent edging suggestion, and so, too, is Phlox Drummondii compaeta. Both of these, sown thinly now and just covered from sight, will give an extraordinarily good display of bloom throughout the summer.

A pointed stick is often used by new gardeners to make the drills for seedsowing. Then, when the seeds are thumbed out into such a drill they slide down the sides to the narrow bottom, and lie jumbled up together; and. the seedlings then come up far too crowded, The correct thing to do is to use a broad-ended implement so that a drill with a flat base is made.

When a seedffied is being macle up in a seed-frame it is often left too faraway from tii£ glass. This is decidedly harmful to the seedlings when they appear, for they get long and drawn in tlieir struggle to reach tiie light. For the same reason a frame should pot be merely placed over a patch of rakedup soil. The right way is to make up the bed in the frame to within 2 or 3 inches of the glass, building it up over a layer of drainage material,

Only when broadcast sowing is it advisable to cover over the seeds with soli brought from elsewhere. In. the case of drills, the soil pushed up to the sides of each drill should be scraped back into the drill. If fhe drill has been drawn to the required depth, this soil will be quite sufficient. If soil is brought from elsewhere, you are likely to cover the seeds too deeply. • • •'

Beginners frequently leave the surface of the soil iu seed-beds, boxes, and’ pots far too rough for very tiny seefis such as meoonopsig,'begonia, and calceolaria, When the soil surface has been fined clown as much as possible, an additional top-dressing layer should be given by sifting on light soil and sand through fine gauze.

Sometimes, on the other hand, the mistake is made of reducing the whole of the soil to exceptionally fine texture. Tins, when watered, becomes a solid mass.

It is an error to water the seeds after they have been sown, from overhead. The better way is to water the soil before Sowing, or to immerse .tli® pans or pots to their rims iu water, allowing moisture to percolate through from the bottom.

One of the commonest errors is that of sowing seeds in such positions that tierce sunshine pours down on them, shrivelling them up. If the weather is not ideally dull and mild, some form of shade should be given tho seed-bed. A few old sacks rigged up, or one or two evergreen boughs thrust into the soil besides the rows, will do the trick. In the case of pots and boxes, of course, you cover them with brown paper. CORRESPONDENCE Answers to Inquirers Diseased Irlsos.—Your plants are suffering from leaf spot. Tim lirst. evidence, ot tins disease is tho appearance of ininuto brown spots surrounded by a water-soaked margin. At lirst. the spots enlarge slowly, but, after blooming time, they enlarge moro rapidly and may kill all the leaves. Fortunately, control is simple,. Tho disease fungus passes the winter ou tl;e old iris leaves, and it has been found that cutting them off at the ground in the winter and destroying them by burning effectively controls the disease. Lime, of course, is essential to the well-being of bearded irises, but . wjien leaf spot appears, its application should bo replaced by superphosphates for one season,—(C.D., Bangitikel). Blighted Cherry Trees.—From your description of the trouble, it would appear that the trees are affected by silver leaf, but it will be necessary to examine the leaves before any delinlte opinion can be given. The pruning would not have had any bearing on the trouble.—(“Amateur," Otaki). Chrysantliemum Rust: Flowers of suL phur will keep rust in check- The young shoots should be planted In soil that has been sterilised. (S.C., Wanganui.) Mildew on Cinerarias: Flowers of sulphur or a (sulphur spray will keep tiie disease in check. Destroy all decayed foliage by burping. The seed of choice plants is worth saving. (S.C., Wanganui.) To Propagate Loganberries: You can propagate loganberries by layers, the plan being to bend down a full-grown cane in rummer so that llie tip is buried 21n. or Sin, ip tho soil. They will thop sepd out roots from the tip. You cannot take cuttings of loganberries. ("Small Fruits.") When to Leave Violet Runners: Violet runnprs should be taken off right through the growing period, unless it is desired to raise fresh plants. Then it is the practice to allow the runners to develop while the plants are in flower. This will provide you with a good supply of runners for planting out immediately after flowering, (Miss E.L.. Karori.) Will Seeds Keep? Seeds of most of the members of the cabbage family, sueh as Brussels sprouts, kale, savoy and broccoli, will retain their vitallt.v for several years. Beetroot, carrot, parsnip and most tloiver seeds, however, are best purchased fresh each season. In cases where seeds are saved over from the previous year It is always advisable to make a small trial towing of each in pots early in the year rather than risk sowing for n erop. Tho results obtained from the trial sowings will shpw which kinds are likely to succeed when sowing in tie usual way. (“Market Gardener.’’) I

MAKING CROPS GROW Some Helpful Manures With the exception of parsnip, beet carrot, and a few other root crops, all vegetables are benefited by the use of natural manure. Some, like cabbages, need heavy dressings; others, like the potato, crop best under moderate dressings, supplemented by artificials. 'Cabbage, sprouts, savoys, and cauliflower require a soil liberally enriched with natural manure beforehand, and at a recent period. In the early stages drop a Tittle nitrogenous manure or some general mixture alongside each plant every fortnight to speed up growth. Winter greens, broccoli, etc., should follow crops which liave been heavily manured, little fresh farmyard stuff, if auy> applied. A litpe artificial mixture may be raked in. beforehand. Root crops, including beet, carrot, parsnip and salsify need synilar treatment to the above, or tiie seedings may have a light dressing of artificials hoed in alongside. Onion, leek, and celery must have fairly liberal supplies of well-rotted manure. The first two can be stimulated in midrseason with a mixture of artificials hoed in alongside or liquid, manure may be given to all; this should be repeated every fortnight for five or six timeg, Potato Fertilisers. Potatoes are the best example of a crop which, while requiring a fair dressing of natural manure, must also have artificials to speed up development. A mixture of 141 b. superphosphate, 3JJb. sulphate of potash, 3ilp. sulphate of ammonia, used at 4oz. per square yard, is one of the best. Let* tuce, radish, and early turnip grow best in a deep, well-dug and rich soil, which is kept nicely moist during dry weather. No fresh manure should be given, and as a rule no artificials are required. ‘ What the Chief Crops Need. Peas and beans give best results when grown i;i deep soil; a trench is excavated to a fair depth in winter and the soil, mixed with natural manure of some kind, is filled in again, the raised surface being then dusted freely with lime. Before the seeds are sown a little .artificial manure is raked into the surface. Tomatoes and cucumbers are raised in a compost consisting mainly of rich loam with little, if any, fresh manure. Liquid feeding and top dressings are necessary afterwards; rotted manure and soil in equal parts-or soil enriched with 2oz. saltpetre and 2oz. superphugphate of lime per gallon may be used for topdressing. Asparagus gets its manurial supply as a topdressing annually, although the soil, before planting, has to be well enriched in advance. A little salt, loz. per square yard, Is given in early summer, and after cutting ceases a topdressiug of nitrate of soda or artificial manure will promote growth. Rljubarb, to be at its best, must have a good quantity of manure dug in annually, and when heavy quantities are pulled, a topdressing of equal parts of superphosphate of lime, potash, and nitrate of soda, at 2oz. to 3oz. per square yard or clump in spring'. How to Apply Artificial Manures.

Artificials are applied just before cropping alongside, but not touching, the growing plants. Lime, basic slag, ajid potash salts should be applied in late autumn or during winter. Never allow- artificial manures to come into contact with plants, -but hoe or rake them into the soil near by. Manures of all kinds may be applied to the soil close to growing vegetables during summer. Natural manure, good rotted stuff, makes an excellent feeding liquid, for it must not be forgotten that this contains all the elements which plants require. Stir a good spadeful into 5 gallons of water or suspend it overnight in a bag just under the surface of the water; use the nut-brown liquid and discard the sediment. Artificials make good stimulating liquids, the liquid being ready for use almost at once. No artificial manure contains in itself all the. three essentials of the vegetable diet, and it is necessary to compound two, three, four, or even five kinds and such mixtures can readily be bought at small cost. In some cases they are made up specially for tomatoes, potatoes, and so on, but a “general garden fertiliser,” if not absolutely ideal for all plants, is sufficiently near the correct proportions as to be first-class A, Useful Mixture. Growers may procure the following quantities and mix them up at home; 281 b. superphosphate of good grade, 141 b. sulphate of ammonia,. 71b. sulphate of potash, and 71b. steamed bone meal. Use the mixture at 3-4 oz, per square yard, or about 61b. per rod. In tius or boxes will keep indefinitely in good condition and wltboht loss. For immediate use, but not for storage, mix three parts superphosphate of lime, one part sulphate of ammonia, and one part sulphate of potash. The faet that gardeners in large towns cannot readily get natural manure must not be overlooked, < The utmost must be made of matter like vegetable rubbish, shoddy, fish refuse, and such organic waste as cap be obtained cheaply; this is dug into the ground during winter, so that it may be humus by spring. In addition, it is often possible to procure a geminatural preparation of some kind like spent hops, hop manure or wool fibre waste. This may then be applied to the ground in spring. For Light ami Heavy Soils. For light soils the following arc the most useful manures; superphosphate, bone meal, fish guano, kainit,. muriate of potash, nitrate of soda, nitrate of lime, farmyard manure of a wot nature, leaf-mould, greeu manure. For heavy soils: steamed bone manure, basic slag, or lime, sulphate of potash, sulphate of ammonia, horse manure, fresh* leaf-mould, soft vegetable rubbish. Green manuring is a system coming into vogue, particularly where farmyard manure is difficult to obtain. As soon as a plot falls vacant it is sown dowji thickly with broad-leaved rape, mustard, Italian ryegrass, lupin, or anything cheap. Any one of these can be dug into the land. Too many hydrangeas are forced to work out in the open, where the conditions are not congenial. There they do finely until the hot time burns out their loveliness, but in the shade of light-topped trees or under some sheltering shadows they hold on over a much longer season. Even the first year plants will carry one big bloom if you keep them up to tlieir work. Constant care suits the hydrangeas to a nicety.

VEGETABLE CORNER Work for the Month In the cooler districts sowing for winter crops will have started in October, brussels sprouts and early broccoli being the first sown. These would be followed by cabbages, savoys, amid-seasou and late broccoli, and kale, early in November, In middle districts the fourth week in November is early enough to sow, all varieties being sown at the same time. The exceptions are a few inland situations where the winters are similar to those experienced in the far south, and in such places an earlier start is necessary, It may appear wrong, to sow early, mid-season, and late varieties of broccoli at the same time. The explanation is that some varieties are longer in coming to head than others. The early varieties come quickest, midseason take a longer time, and late varieties longer still. Therefore, though all may be started together, they will not come in together. In most middle districts growth is strong during midsummer and early autumn and continues through winter, though, of course, more slowly. When the seeds are sown near the ond of November strong,plants are ready for setting out during the first two or three weeks of the new year. Experience lias shown that sowing and planting at the times stated provide savoys and cabbages for winter use, give brussels sprouts time to develop, and ensure that all the broccoli come in well developed in the order of succession. Planting a month later has resulted in very partial success or in failure. CELERY How to Grow it Now Self-blanching varieties are most useful for early supplies. These may be planted on the fiat, which is, in fact, the most general plan at the present time. The plants are set about Sin. apart in beds sft. to 6ft. wide. The soil must be rich, and water should be supplied if it becomes dry. If the plants make'good growth they will shade each other and so be sufficiently blanched to render them fit for use. Such heads are, however, a poor substitute for good celery, though they find a ready marker. Self-blanching varieties are not suitable for any but early crops except in the warmer districts, being tender and unable to bear cold weather. The finest, heads are obtained from trench-grown plants, but even then they are not equal i to those produced by the varieties that are not self-blanching, these being more robust and capable of making larger ! heads of a better quality. In the cooler , districts celery is rarely attacked by ! disease, but the contrary is the case 1 in tho warmer districts, where rust and , leaf-spot are common troubles. Spraying with 2-2-4 Q bordean? can generally overcome the disease, but it must begin with the seedlings as soon as they are well above ground, and be repeated about every twelve days till the plants are fully grown. j All your shrubs will do much better ( if you give them a mulching now. It will keep the soil moist and cool throughout the summer and, if you me manure, will feed those shrubs which are stronger growers and have healthy appetites.