PICTURESQUE KABUL

Dominion, Volume 22, Issue 175, 20 April 1929, Page 28

PICTURESQUE KABUL

A vivid description of Kabul, at the home-coming of King Amanullah from his European tour, is given •by Mr. Jackson Fleming, who flew to the Afghan capital last summer, in good time to witness the festivities, in the current issue of “Asia.”

“Apart from its sentinels and regiments of, mountains, Kabul did not seem an attractive city, with its squat mud-brick construction, and its squat mulberry and rain trees —its dusty little streets, its shallow, muddy river, and its general aspect of parched and wrinkled age essaying a smile. “Kabul was not attractive, but the" people interested me greatly, especially the visiting tribesmen. These race-proud mountaineers long ago conceived a, proud contempt for Kabul, whatever the origin of its old title, ‘Brigands’ Paradise.’ The tribesmen speak of the Kabul people as a mongrel lot, mixed descendants of migrating hordes and armies, and especially of the camp-followers, and such, who were considered unfit for either a campaign in India or the arduous return marches north and west. So ‘Kabuli’ is now a stinging epithet. Nevertheless, the tribesmen flock to the capital by hundreds and thousands. “It was fascinating to watch these visitors seeing the sights of the city. They seemed the most militantly selfrespecting country gentlemen that I have found the world over, their typical manner, that of careful stepping, hair-trigger defiance. Their dress was generally baggy white pantaloons, and ' overblouse, coloured waistcoat, and often coloured sash, turban, and curled-up shoes. If they had travelled some distance, or were remaining overnight, they were likely to have, slung over one shoulder, the bright lungi or heavy scarf, which served as a wrap mornings and evenings. and in sleep. Though they were required to check their rifles and knives when entering Kabul, occasionally I saw a group who had . got by with their rifles still on their backs. “I saw few women in the Kabul bazaar, and these few were shrouded from crown to feet in the long chadar, with a slight perforation for the eyes.

j Black, grey, and light blue t were the prevailing colours of . these over-garments, an occasional j yellow one denoting a Hindu woman. I I later saw many unveiled nomad and s peasant tvomen, and thought some of the peasants very pretty. Also, I saw ■ a few women of the official class, un- : veiled in the isolated summer capital, > Paghman, where an emancipation s movement had just been started under ; the patronage of Queen and King • Amanullah. “My first long walk about Kabul was with Amir Khan, a young Wazari i‘ tribesman, who had been educated in • one of the new Government schools, : and was now teaching in the same school, and in others. Generally speaking, I was told that the" schoolboys adored their King and his ‘progress.’ One of his chief delights was to visit the schools, and make inspiring talks to the boys. “ ‘Oh, yes,’ said Amir Khan, ‘our present King is a strong man, and a modern ruler besides. And he has only one wife, although his father and Bis grandfather each had , about three hundred wives.’ “Present-day Kabul is not a hundred years old. The British completely destroyed the city in 1842 as part punishment for the annihilation of a British army. The Afghans resolved not to rebuild on the old site, though the present city is contiguous thereto. Old Kabul nestled close beneath the citadel heights of Bala Hissar. Undoubtedly the former city was more picturesque than is the Kabul of today. It was a walled city of seven gates, and it had a famous bazaar with roofed arcades, which, in the evenings were enchantingly illuminated. “Dar al Aman was one of the King’s ideas which had taken a substantial form. The place was only five miles from Kabul beyond a mountain gap. Except for the thousands of turbans circulating wonderingly, I found myself at the centre of an ultramodern park city in the making. Just ahead, on a slight eminence, was a massive and satisfying structure of brick and concrete nearing completion —the Parliament building. The femdscaping around the building caused me to gasp again—shrubbery and flower beds beautifully planned, and one of the finest and largest rose gardens that I have seen anywhere. A half-mile back, and near the mountains, was the new palace, its style acceptably in key with the central building. The Afghans seemed deeply proud of Dar al Aman. “Meanwhile, Kabul was abustle with preparations for-.- the three-day festival that was to mark the return of Amanullah from Europe. Arches were being constructed; doors and windows were being painted a vivid ■ green; silks and velvets, brocades, cm- < broideries and rugs were being tacked up on innumerable shop-fronts; flags , and pennants were strung along pro-