GARDEN NOTES

Dominion, Volume 20, Issue 82, 31 December 1926, Page 26

GARDEN NOTES

(By

“Kowhai.”)

AGAPANTHUS, Clumps of agapanthus are very beautiful just now, for huge heads of glorious blue or clear white flowers, borue ou long, strong stems, are showing above the mass of flax-like leaves. As each plant, when well grown, takes up a fair amount of room, agapautbus should be planted near the back of a mixed border. It is a charming plant, too, for the waterside, and once planted need not be disturbed for many years. As soon as tbo flower buds have formed, the plants should be fed liberally with weak soot water or very weak liquid manure, always following a good watering or rain. Keep weeds away from the clumps. . YELLOW ARUMS. Yellow arums are dainty little garden subjects, and are quite hardy, provided the soil is well drained. In badly drained soils the fleshy tubers are apt to rot. At the same time, the plants like sufficient moisture during the growing seasou. Propagation is effected by cutting up the large tubers into single eyes, as you would a potato. Dust the cut portions with finely-powdered charcoal. :uid leave them on a warm shelf for a dav or two. When they arc first planted, do not be too generous with water, lest the cut portions of tuber rot. Ouee growth is well started, however, they may be given plenty of water, provided the drainage is good. Three things are necessary for their successful growth—abundance of heat and moisture during the growing season, and good drainage at all times. CARNATIONS. Carnation plants are glorious just now, tor they are laden with their fragrant flowers A little disbudding is necessary almost every day, so quickly do the buds form and swell, and ‘good staking is essential, as the heavily-laden stems soon fall to the ground. One stake is uot sufficient, •_ three or four neat ones should be inserted round each plant. If hoops of wire are twisted round the stakes at short intervals above one another, the flower stalks will bo confined within these, and the flowers will have a better chance to display their beauty than if they are bunched up to one stake.' The ground round the plants should be kept in a state of fine powder to protect the roots from drought. Soot water should be given at regular intervals. One., of the finest manures for earnations is fowl manure that has been stored in tins between layers of soil or sand. After being kept for several weeks the manure and sand mixed may bo sprinkled round carnation plants, and pricked in with a hand fork. Care must be taken, however, not to use too much at a time, or sappy growth Instead of firm flowering stalks will be the result. Afterwards a thorough watering may bo given. Seedling plants, and young plants from cuttings, must be pinched back to make them branch out from the base. Old soot that has been exposed to the air may be dusted over carnation plants. The plants appreciate, too, being watered with weak salt water occasionally. Water with salt added to it that has been used to mash cabbages .or lettuces should always be thrown over a carnation plant instead of being poured down the sink. Cuttings may be taken whenever they are available, and planted firmly in sandy soil. If they are kept moist and shaded from the sun they soon form roots at this time of the year.

ROUTINE WORK. Delphiniums.—Unless seed is wanted cut back the flowering stems. Loosen tho soil about the plants, and give them oue of the following stimulants: Soot water guano (ioz. in 1 gallon water), or liquid manure made from animal manure. Afterwards prick in a little superphosphate, and spread a mulch of decayed garden rubbish round the plants. Liliums.—Liliuras auratum, tigriniwn, and specibsum, are at a stage when *hey need plenty of water and liquid manure. Soot water is splendid, and may be used freely. Where it is obtainable, a mulch of well-rotted manure may be spread round the plants. Failing the manure, prick in a dressing of superphosphate, and use well-rotted garden rubbish for - the mulch. . Statice and perennial gypsophilia may be cut as soon as the flowers are well out. If they are to- be dried for winter they should be tied into bunches, aud hung from tlie roof of a cool shed to dry. Climbing roses are sending out strong new shoots. These should, be nailed into place before high winds damage them. Chrysanthemums.—Work a little superphosphate ’nto the soil round chrysanthemum plants, and provide a mulch. The roots are very near the surface of the soil, and must be- covered with a fresh layer of soil from time to time. Perennial Pjiloxes.—The plants are near their flowering time, and should have some liquid manure or soot water once a week after rain,, or after a good watering. Sniall green caterpillars are at work on many plants. They are easily detected, because they fold a leaf where they are at work. Just squeeze the leaf with the fingers quickly. Greenfly, too, is' busy on the young shoots of roses and other plants. Syringe the plants rather forcibly with hot soapsuds, to which has been added a little kerosene or a little Scrubbs’ ammonia. Watering the plants with weak permanganate of potash helps to keep away both caterpillars and greenfly. Flowering shrubs such as philadelphus, lilac, early rhododendrons, azaleas, forsythias, flowering currants, etc., should have growths that have borne flowers cut back to a healthy shoot. Daphnes, luculias rhododendrons, and azaleas, should have a mulch of well rotted manure. Or a little guano may bo pricked into the soil, and a mulch of good soil from a compost heap given.