PAPERHANGING

Dominion, Volume 20, Issue 27, 27 October 1926, Page 17

PAPERHANGING

SOME USEFUL HINTS IMPORTANCE OF PREPARATION A good deal of paperhanging is unsatisfactory owing to the fact that whatever may be the condition of the walls the paper is hung without preparation. This practice is neither sanitary nor satisfactory. The old paper if loose is generally so at the ceiling and at the skirting, and it is hopeless to expect the new paper to secure the old. (further, the joints of the old show badly—not, of course, until the new paper has dried. It is considerably easier to paper walls than ceilings, therefore it is only when no other treatment is suitable that the amateur is advised to attempt hanging ceiling paper: , Practically the only materials required, an English technical writer observes, are paste, a paste brush, or distemper brush about four inches to six inches or so wide—this being very suitable, as it is more easily controlled by the novice than the regulation paperhanger’s paste brush—a large pair of scissors, a large soft brush, or regulation paperhanger’s brushing-down brush; a large table or a few boards and trestles whereon to paste the paper; and a roller to roll down the edges. This last is not essential, if only one or two rooms are to be papered. An ordinary photographic roller is an excellent substitute. The paste is a very important item, as on its efficiency depends the success or failure of the whole job. This is made from the best quality wheaten flour and boiling water. To make it up, about 41b. of the flour is placed in an ordinary bucket, which should be thoroughly scoured out and cleaned before use, and sufficient cold water added to make the mixture into a stiff batter. This batter, should be thoroughly beaten up with a piece of flat board or the like until it is as free from lumps as it is possible to make it. To this batter about loz. of powdered alum is added and stirred in, and then boiling water is added, stirring continuously until the paste thickens. The paste is then set aside to cool, when it should be perfectly free from lumps'. If well mixed, the few lumps that form may be removed by straining the paste through butter muslin stretched over a clean pail, but if the lumps are very numerous, by far the best plan is to mix up a further quantity of paste, as the lumps will be found very detrimental to the result of the finished work. Some modern papers are so preparea that the end may be knocked off the roll, leaving a trimmed working edge. If the paper is not of this type, the edge of each piece' must be trimmed carefully with the scissors. As the paper is pasted great care must be taken to fold it in on itself in such a way that only parted surfaces will come into contact. IM actual hanging of the paper should preferably be commenced at some angle of the wall and finished in a like locality, where any slight fault in lining up the pattern is not so ■ noticeable. A very convenient position for finishing is above a doorway, where the comparatively short. length makes a slight variation unnoticeable. The hanging should commence at the top, the paper being gently pressed against the wall surface so that it just adheres. It is then adjusted until it is perfectly upright, using a plumb line if necessary, although the eye can generally be trusted if there is an angle or some other vertical feature to judge by, and a small amount of overlap allowed at both top and bottom. . The paper is then pressed into firm contact with the wall by means of the brushing-down brush. If the regulation type is not available, an excellent substitute is provided by a soft hair broom, the handle being removed and the brush part thoroughly washed and dried, so as to' obviate any chance of its marking, and damaging the paper. The brush is used in a downward and outward motion, with a decided but not too strong a pressure, or.the paper may be pulled out of position. To fit the paper neatly against the wainscot or picture rail, it should be pressed against the wall with the brush and the back of the scissors ‘blades run along in the. angle forming the junction of the wall and the.wainscot or picture rail, this making a definite crease in the paper. The paper is then drawn away from the wall and the surplus trimmed off neatly with the scissors, the paper being then pressed back into its place Successive strips are hung in the same way. Usually the amateur will find it best to lap joint the strips, that is, the trimmed edge of the second strip over-

laps the margin of the first. The margin is about jin. wide and is deficient as regards pattern. The rlternative is to butt joint the paper, that is, make the edges of the paper meet at the joint This requires much more accurate and careful work than the lap joint, but produces a better surface. If the surface of the wall is discoloured and the paper to be applied to it is light and delicate, the wall should be lined. That is, it should first be paper with a plain white lining paper and butt jointed. After this has dried the wallpaper is hung in the manner already described. Very thick papers, such as embossed varieties and some of those which represent woodwork, call for the use of a very strong paste, which can easilv be prepared by the addition of a little diluted Scotch glue mixed with the paste, the whole of which should be mixed and applied to the paper while still hot.