GARDEN NOTES

Dominion, Volume 18, Issue 193, 10 May 1924, Page 24

GARDEN NOTES

(By

“Kowhai”.)

IRIS STYLOSA. In a sheltered part of the garden that charming little winter-flowering iris. Stylosa, has begun its long flowering season, and for many weeks tho fragrant pale-blue flowers will be a joy to the gardener. If. the halfopened buds are picked in tho cool of the morning, they will open out in water and remain fresh for several days. It is a good plan, just before flowering time, to thin out some of the blade-like leaves, for so dense is their growth, that very often the fragile blooms become spoilt as they push their way up into the sunshine. The best time to plant iris Stylosa is just after the flow’ering is over, early in the spring.. But clumps may be planted now provided they are kept well watered. The soil .should be deeply dug and w’ell drained, and should have added to it a considerable quantity of grit or coarse Gand. Heavy soil should be particularly well drained and lightened, for the plants do not like stagnant water lying about their roots during winter time. If the plants are to flower early in the wdnter, they should bo given a sunny sheltered position. PANSIES FOR THE SPRING.

Pansies are at their best, in most North Island gardens, during the spring, and in order that we may have a good supply of plants we should lose no time in sowing seeds and taking cuttings. The cuttings to be taken are the young growths that may now be seen in the centre of almost every plant, and sometimes these may be pulled out with a little root attached. Plant them out where they can be kept moist and shaded from hot sun, and they will soon root. In this wav we can increase our stock of the finest plants in c’’r garden. To get really good flowers the plants must bo treated well. The ground must be deeply dug. two feet not being too much. The. topsoil should first be removed to avoid bringing to the surface tho subsoil. The subsoil should then be broken up, and should have cow manure, decaved weeds, etc., and wood ashes mixed with it. The tonsoil may then be replaced and should have a drossing of bonedust. The soil should bo allowed to settle thoroughly before the plants are put out. When planting; be sure to spread out tho roots nicely. Spread fine earth over the roots and press it gently, but firmly, down. Constant stirring of the soil, and occasional good doses of weak liquid manure, help to bring the plants on well. Faded flowers should be promptly removed. SWEET PEAS. Sweet pea seedlings should be given every encouragement to make good grow’th before cold .weather’ checks them. Constant stirring of the soil about them, and training them upright from the start help them to make good, strong growth. Now that the soil has had a good soaking, seedlings that are too crowded may be thinned out and transplanted. As a rule summer flowering peas “break” of their own accord, but where they have failed to do so the tops should be pinched off to induce them to throw out fresh shoots from the base. As soon as the new shoots are two or three inches long, it is as well to put pot-sown plants out into their permanent position in the garden. Before planting out sweet peas at this time of the year, tho gardener must take care that his soil is well drained, for they will not thrive in cold, sodden soil. But if the ground has been deeply dug to a depth of at least two feet, and if well-rotted manure or vegetable rubbish, grit, and wood ashes have been thoroughly mixed with it, the little plants will at once become established in their new homo, and should make steady growth'. Care should be taken when planting to press finely-sifted soil to which some rubbish-fire ashes have been added, firmly over the roots of the plants. Much of the future welfare of the plants depends upon the manner in which the planting is done. Water the plants in, and keep them shaded from the sun for a day or two. ROUTINE AVORK. Cut back perennial plants such as pentstemons, sweet scabious, antirrhinums, gypsophila, thalictrum, helenium, perennial phlox, etc., that have finished flowering to within a few inches of the ground. Loosen the soil about them, and work in a little bonedust. Very large clumps should be lifted and broken un, and healthy pieces from the outside may be planted back. AVhen Michaelmas daisies have finished flowering tho clumps may be lifted. The soil should be deeply dug, and should have well-rotted manure or rubbish worked into it. Strong pieces of the plants, having about six crowns, may then be replanted. Narcissi that are well above the grond should be kept well weeded. Those that are already in bud, Soliel d’Or, may be given weak soot water. Clumps of liliums should be covered with well-decayed manure, or a little bonedust may be pricked in, and welldecayed rubbish may be used instead of manure. Rose bushes must be strictly watched, for mildew and green fly soon make their appearance. Tlie bushes are still bearing well, and the flowers are most welcome at this time of the year. AVork a little soot into tho soil about violet plants. Hedges should be trimmed and the clippings burnt. Tlie ash may be put aside in a drv place or it may be scattered over the garden at once. Paths need constant hoeing, for weeds spring up very quickly at this time of the year. / As summer and autumn flowering plants are lifted tho soil vrhwe they were growing should be deeply dug, and should have decayed rubbish or manure worked into it. VEGETABLES. Amateur gardeners should endeavour to get their vegetable plots trenched and manured before winter sets in. Tho surface soil may then bo left rough for tho weather to sweeten, or a crop of lupins, peas, oats, etc., may be grown to bo turned in for green manure towards tho end of the winter. For vegetables to be a success the ground must bo rich in humus. Humus is the organic matter in the soil derived from decomposing plant and animal products, and is not true humus till it is in an advanced state of decomposition. It is then brown in colour, and gives a dark colour to the soil.

As humus is capable of holding nearly double its weight of moisture, one can see how vital a part it is of a sandy soil, for it retains in the soil moisture that would otherwise drain away too quickly. Also, during its decomposition valuable plant foods are liberated, which help to make the soil much more fertile.

By the addition of humus a clay soil is made more porous, so t»iat water passes through more ranidly. and air is more freely admitted. Soils rich in humus do not become hard and compact. In tho towns, gardeners have to manage without animal manure, but weeds, grass, leaves, soft hedge clippings, and anything that is capable of being rotted down may be returned to the soil and will supply the organic matter that will become humus.

In a garden nothing should bo wasted, for hard stemmed things that will not rot down, rose primings, cabbage stumps, potato peelings, docks, etc , may be burnt and if the ash is at once spread over the garden it will supply a certain amount of potash to the soil.

Garden notes next week will contain scaconable notes about preparing the -ground for roses and shrubs and ye get-