SOYER'S "PAPER BAGS."

Dominion, Volume 4, Issue 1208, 17 August 1911, Page 9

SOYER'S "PAPER BAGS."

A CHEF' HITS OUT. The following outspoken letter has been' received from a correspondent in regard to paper-bag cookery. The chef, who writes, is apparently a rebel against the Soyer ruper-bags, but be knows (or ought to kuov/) his subject. He writes:— Tho disadvantages of paper basr cook-, ery are too numerous to mention. Fadr dists will -certainly join the supporters of the craze, while it lasts, but will eventually return to the practical mode of satisfying their epicuriene tastes. Cooking in paper can never give the satisfaction that Soyer and hss paid teachers would like it to possess. It would be_ irrelevant in the extreme for any practical kitchen to adept paper-bag cookery exclusively. French cooking is predominant in all up-to-date kitchens, and those with a practical culinary experience will thoroughly understand why it would be the biggest opponent of exclusive paper-bag cooking. There are certainly countless prepared mixtures, finished. and served in paper at the tables of the best houses, but what are they? Hugo joints? Certainly hot. If 'you wish for roast meat of any kind you do not want it steamed ala Soyer. A curried entree of anykind can never be prepared to perfection in paper bags. A ragout or any kind of a braised entree will never be produced out of paper bags as they should be, because they require too much attention in the different processes of preparation. I, as ft chef with British, American, tropical, and colonial experience, do not hesitate in' saying that Soyer's mode of paper-bag • cooking # will never give the public complete satisfaction. —I am, etc., ' WILLIAM MAY ROOKES, Chef, "Ugbrooke."

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