THE EARLY FIFTIES.

Dominion, Volume 4, Issue 1097, 8 April 1911, Page 6

THE EARLY FIFTIES.

THREE YEARS' CRUISE IN AUS' TRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND.

WRECKS IN PORIRUA HARBOUR

[Bv P. Gaivi.v]

An old book, published by Richard Bentlcy, London, in 1854, has lately eomc into the possession of Mr. W. M. Muir, of Majoribanks Street, Wellington, who has a considerable collection 6f works relating to Old New Zealand.' I am indebted to my old friend and colleague for a perusal of a "Three Years' Cruise in the Australasian Colonics." Tho writer was Mr. R. Edmond Malone, Paymaster in H.M.S. Fantome,

which visited these waters in 1850-53. Leaving Sydney on November 2, 1852, tho Fantome reached Cook Strait on November 8, but. not being able to beat into Port Nicholson against a strong gale, she anchored under Mana Island, tho- solo inhabitants then being an old deformed Maori woman and a pakeha boy. Even at that period numbers of i goats and sheep were found depastur-1 ing on tho island, which tho writer describes as "a miserable spot, with no! trees on it, and no shooting," albeit a favourito residence of the old fighting chief, Rbngiliaetea. Thero were plenty of turkeys on Mana, six of which were procured for a sovereign; also ducks, fowls, eggs; pigs ("fed oil milk and potatoes"), and "excellent cream and butter." the officers of the Fantome did not fare hadly wl\ile sheltering under the lee of the island. The old Maori woman's affections were won by a supply of tobacco, none of the "soothing weed" being amongst her possessions at the time of the anchorage, so that she would always hand out some bread, butter and milk whenevef a trip was made to tlio shore.

Wrecks in Porirua Harbour. Mails were rather intermittent in those days, and .were sent from Sydney as opportunity offered. Fantome carried a mail for "Wellington, and a boat was sent to Porirua Harbour with it. While tho boat was ashore, application was made for the services of the ship's surgeon, and Dr. Bent volunteered to go ashore. The galley, with tho captain, tlio doctor, tlio carpenter, and two of his men (who went, ashore to get a, spar for the main -topsail-yard} and a crew of five men started for Porirua at 9 a.m. on Thursday, November 11, 1852. i\s tho boat did not return up to the following Sunday it was surmised by thoso on board that the officers must have gono overland to Wellington and that tlio carpenter and crew were busily preparing the spar ashore; but ou Monday morning the carpenter came on board with four men jn tho second' ij'cat. Ho reported that the gajley was struck by a heavy sea, about an hour after leaving the Fantome on the previous Thursday,, and. the sail was lowered in order to bail her out, but the craft struck another heavy sea, which filled her up to the deck. Nothing remained to be done, but to 'oeach the boat if possible as tho wind was shoreward, and sail was again hoisted. But a third roller came thundering along, and upset the boat. Soon all hands wero in the water, and the galley was bottom upwards. Dr. Bent and tho others got on top, only to bo twice washed off. Tlie doctor, who could not swim, thereupon seized an American- bucket which ho took witli him from the Fantome, and was gradually drifting ashore, when all of a sudden he was seen to disappear without an effort. Four of the crew were also drowned. Tlie others got ashore by hanging on to the oars, and one rami saved himself by clinging to tlie gangboard. On tho Sunday evening, as the jollyboat was cruising round in search of thoso who had gono ashore, she was suddenly lifted by a roller, tho oars were unshipped from tho rowlocks, tlio boat was turned over, and two of tho crew were drowned. The sailing master (Captain Polkinghorne) had a very narrow escape. He was cast up senseless on tho rocks. Had it not been for Mr Levi Tandy,.who at that time was living on tho shores of Porirua Harbour, and a Maori woman, the disaster would liavo been much greater than it proved. lie was warmly congratulated by the then Governor, Sir George Grey, and tho Lieutenant-Governor, Mr. Eyre. Mr. Tandy's services were.recognised by tlie presentation of a silver tea and coffee service, and at tho time of Mrs. Tandy's death it passed to Mrs. North, who acted in -a friendly way as' liurso to tho old lady. Mr. and Mrs. North kept.'a hotel in Tory .Street. at that period. The'nlale is still, I believe, in possession of Mrs. North's descendants ill Wellington, though it was said to have been taken to Sydney, where, one of Mrs. North's daughters was in a convcftt. and it remained there for some time. Mrs. Tandy at tho timo of her decease''resided in Courtenay Place, where the Eagle Boardingho'use now stands.

Sensation in Wellington. Near neighbours of tho Tandys at iho.iimo of the wreck were tho AYalker family. 01(1 Mr. Walker, like tho late Mr. George Allen, was a builder of sailing craft ou tho shores of Port Nicholson, in tho early days. Mis son, Sir. James Walker, now residing at Plimmertcn, ' whero ho farms a considerable area .of land, was a youth when tho Fantome anchored under Mana. Wo remembers the'wrecks, as does also his sister, Mrs. Sinclair, who now resides in Ghuznec Street, near St. Peter's Church. . Mr.' Raymond Collins,' of Brougham Street, Wellington, who as a small boy often visited Mr. ancl Mrs. Tandy at Forirua, also remembers the sensation created in Wellington by the wrecks. He remembers kindly old Levi Tandy carrying him long distances oil his back during these boyish visits. The body of a splendid young fellow named Myall was found on November 1", and was buried ill the sandy

burial ground of the. temporary barracks at Porirua, and it is recorded that ono of the roughest men on the Fantome (a messmat-e of deceased) cried like a child all the way to the ceme-: tery. Most of tile people about Porirua attended tho burial service, which was read by the captain. After these mishaps the Fantome left Mana on November 25, and anchored at Wellington tho same day., On the 27th of that month a message was brought from Porirua that Dr! Bent's body had been found. Deceased was brought into Wellington and interred in St. Paul's Churchyard (Sydney Street Cemetery) on the 28th, tlio band of the 65th Regiment playing the "Dead March," and al! the regimental officers not on duty, as well as a large concourse of civil servants and civilians, attended tho burial service, N which was a most impressive one. Dr. Bent's last resting-place is near the mortuary, chapel, where a nephew, who afterwards toured the Dominion, caused'a monument to be erected to his uncle's memory, though the author of tho "Three Years' Cruise" states that an inscription was put up by the messmates of Dr. Rent, who was the greatest favourite of all on board: tho Fantome —u magnificent typo of the British sailor officer and Christian gentleman! , From tho recollections of those I havo consulted it does not appear that Porirua Harbour presented the appearance of being lashed by a strong gale at the timo of tho wrecks. Mr. Tandy had no great difficulty in • reaching tho wreck, though ho had to nut out in a small boat. ■ The Maori woman who went with him did good service, and it is doubtful if tho life of Captain Polkinghorne could have been saved without her help. It was this woman's husband that Dr. Bent was about to visit when tho wreck took place. Referring to Porirua Harbour, the author of the "Thrto Years' ,Cra'ise" states:—"The bar outside this harbour is very treacherous. When we passed over it, it was as smooth as a millpond, but the rollers soon got up with any breeze. 1 When, inside, Porirua is a lovely harbour." The farms about it appear "very pretty and English-like," even in those far-off days. Fifty, of the Goth Regiment had been quartered at Porirua, "but earthquakes had so shaken their barracks that it was deemed prudent to leave." "It is a far cry to Lochaber." The author. records a matter then much talked of. "Porirua is to bo tho site of a now college for the Natives in connection with that at Auckland, and a. comprehensive, plan for their education and amelioration is maturing." It appears to bo still maturing, after the lapse of over half a century.

Wellington in 1852,

The Fantome stopped at Wellington nearly a month, "without experiencing any fatiguing amount of hospitality from the families, but a great deal of conviviality among tho bachelor part of tlio community." ' In another part of the work, tho author states"We cannot say much of Wellington society, our experience, of it not being overwhelming. From what little wo saw, I should say it was ' rather free-and-easy—de-cidedly not so good as in the other New Zealand settlements." There were many bachelors' parties, and they were very convivial—"tho usual consequence," he sententiously remarks, "of a want of proper tone in tho married society." But not only was there disappointment with the hospitality of married folk. "I had some reason to expect somo civility from both Governors," lib continues, "but liono of us had the slightest notice taken of our calls." Tlio second Governor was Mr. Eyre—"the hihipenny Governor," tho Maoris called him ill derision. .The natives of Jamaica had another term for him in after years, when his Cromwelliah methods in that island led to fierce debates ill' the British llouso of Commons.

The scenery, of thc.Hutt Valley proved disappointing, though even in those early, days there ''was a very 'good nursery garden there," with plenty; of plums, :apples, raspberries,•gooseberries," etc., and English flowers of every kind —roses, pinks, stocks, wallflowers, etc," "Wellington people appeared to think

the. Hutt a paradise," slates the author. ''Be sure you go to tho Hutt," ; "Oh, you must see the Hutt" ; "So Englishlike." These wcro tho urgings . that proved rather disappointing. "This is truly ridiculous,", exclaims tho author, "when alluding to a partly-drained swamp. Tho houses, again, aro all wooden, and anything but Englishlike." "These, with the stumps of trees in tho sivampy, wooden ' bridges, and careless.fences, givo it 1 a shabby North American tinge." Hutt hospitality does not appear to have been lavished on . the Fantome officers. "A Late naval, medical man," the author records, "was liberal-in his offers, but lie found it more pleasant to dine with us at the hotel, and with his friend, the law practitioner of the place, wo passed the evening pleasantly at our hotel." One thing about Wellington did actually please the author of .tho-"Three Years' Cruise." "Tho view of the harbour anl sea from a fountain path above the suburb of Ivaiwarra," ho records, "is worth anything. The soil is luxuriant with palms, ferns, and all tho New Zealand trees, and they- cover tho ravines below tho path in some places with most brilliant hues, while the hills' are ' dotted with farmhouses, barns, hayricks, etc." Olio of tho first regattas was held on Anniversary Day—January .22, 1853. Whaleboats, ballast-boats, and dinghies took part in it. One of the dinghies got upset, but the two occupants, after a narrow escape, were rescued. An impromptu race of Maori-bred horses, ridden by Maoris, added much to -the amusements of the day. The horseracing was followed by foot races, amongst the soldiers of tho 65th Regiment, the crew of tho Fantome, and the Maoris. Anniversary Day in the early fifties was a red-letter day in the small settlement at Port Nicholson.

Prices of Provisions in 1852. < The retail prices of provisions in those days in Wellington were:—Flour, £30 per ton; 21b. loaf, 7d.; beef, Bd. to 9a. per lb.; fowls, 3s. 6d. a pair; ducks, ss. each; geese, ss. each; turkeys,' 10s. each (different to Mana Island, where £1- procured half a dozen); butter, Is. 2d. per lb.; salt fish, Is. 2d. per.lb.; eggs, Is. 6d. per dozen; Now Zealand cheese. Is. 2d. per lb.; wheat, lis. per bushel; oats, 10s. per bushel; barley, 7s. per bushel; hay, £10 per ton; cows and bullocks, £8 to £10 each. Labourers got 4s. to'os. a day, and tho Natives 3s. per day. .

Taranaki and Nelson. Taranaki, at that time "dignified as a province," states the author,'had a population of 2200, exclusive of Maoris. Its revenues ' werelß49, £417; 1850, £1044; 1851', £1501; 1852, £2488; 1853 (nine months), £2346. "The usual dress of Europeans here is a blue serge shirt, with a belt round tho ■ waist, and corduroy trousers.'.' Which recalls the taunt hurled across tho floor of the House of Representatives, in the early eighties by Sir Julius Vogei: "perhaps the .lion. " member would liko to revert back to tho days when ho wore a blue juniper and punched bullocks."' And the spirited rpjoind- % ed of Major Atkinson came like a bullet: "I-wish to the Lord wo cqukl.'.' ;• "Nelson is more liko Home, than any of the New. Zealand-settlements,", cords the author of the "Three, Years' Cruise." They had q, delightful ride, over the best road in New Zealand, atid the officers 1 put-up at the Wakatu, tlio best hotel m New Zealand. Everything was of a superlative order in Nelson, where the. principal " families Were not, so sparing in hospitality as Wellington's early (married) settlers! Major Richmond was then the head of the small community, whoso exports for eight months in -1853 amounted to £28,577,.'' and imports to "£ISiO.QO. J "This province,'' records our author! "contains more good harbours than all the rest of New Zealand put together"': and "coal, exists in all directions." Nelson, evidently, lost nothing by its dispensation of hospitality to officers of tho Fantome. •

Auckland in '53. After a visit to Sydney the Fantome relumed to Auckland on = March 26, 1853. "During the many visits to this chief town of the New Zealand Islands," states tho author, "wo met' with great hospitality from the. resi-. dents, and those best of fellows, the officers of H.M. ,58th Regiment." '. ''Auckland;" he records, "is a cathedral city, the Bishop of New Zealand generally living at Bishop's,' Auckland, seven miles from town, on tho Tamaki River. The .Metropolitan Church "(St. Paul's) is built of • wood, and is like "a large barn, with a wooden steeple on it, tho- roof "supported"by- cross rafters, 'lho church . Was'loopholed'during the Maori disturbances, and riflemen stationed in the steeple could have done some damage, had the town been attacked,' as', it commanded Shbrtland Crescent and Prince's Street, with' the entrance ti the Commissariat' Stores, i ouhd which, on' Britbmart' Point, are thrown entrenchments." At tho signal-station on Mount Victoria' lived' two sailors from ' H'.M.S. Buffalo, which had been wrecked on the New Zealand coast. The sailors ha.d married two sisters from tb ( e Emerald Tsle, ' otic ■of whom, a. very pretty woman, had charge of tho signal-sta-tion. She had just presented her growling, lord with twins—"a very common ■ occurrence in New Zealand," remarks the author, "two ladies .in■ the small community having presented their husbands with a-pair each just • before our visit." . The' sailor from IT.M.S. Buffalo did not take over kindly to his good , fortune, and growled at his •.misfortune in having to fetch his provisions and firewood from the flat below the signal-station. "The old signalman used his nautical privilege to growl," siys the paymaster of the Fantome. Ho refused to bo comforted at the promise of what his children would do for him when ho became too old to fetch provisions and firewood! "Three Years' Cruise in tho Australasian Colonies" gives a. good deal- of information about tlie digging davs in Australia and the first settlement in the Auckland Islands. With the Editor s permission, I may return to it on another occasion.