THE BY-WAYS OF FRANCE

Dominion, Volume 2, Issue 563, 19 July 1909, Page 9

THE BY-WAYS OF FRANCE

; THROUGH THEj.WINE COUNTRY. ! VINES, '^f"'" M>->:.'-;- (By,'h.:T.--BV..J3bbw.) ~-•.,. j ■'~'!:' Almost as decisive as th'e-lives"which mark them' on the map aro the agricultural divisions of Franco; in my last article I described tho nature of the industry,' followed'by thepeasantry as far' southward and eastward of' Paris', '.'as'- Sdmbernori.„ At Sambernon! we riamo. to what seemed a dividing range, and immediately the gave -'place to vineyards. .'The soil hadj from a dark,' rich black, to. a reddish, porous,: dryearth: ••: -' ■•-■ •', ■ .'

,-As.-.we_ look forward-over the other side ' :of,tho hill, or'mountain, up 1 which'we have 1 , just':' laboriously ascended, there is. spread , .out' before us a nidst' magnificent spectacle.' | Reaching .down', tho valley,'and up'into! tho '. hills on either side is a great • expanse of : viticulture. The ground has the appearance of-a tesselatcd-floor, . : '-;,. ; The' peasants, are among their vines—, father, and family—weeding,, cultivat- ', ,ing,'and pruning, orplacing in position thou- - sands.-of supporting: sticks. Sometimes thin ..wires, are passed'along the rows of.-sticks'.', to which the tendrils will cling as they shoot . up;. ■■ .The;cultivation- of. tho .grape.:here is as intense as was ,-tho cultivation-of- orops through'the. country-just-passed. -':.-.. ; v'With the.change in industry :the character of'the; people seems also to have undergone : some indescribable alteration:-. There is still ;' the ancient, and prominent tillage church, but .the -houses, are .kept in better, external repair. 'About here,- also, we pass ; another canal Tunning; this time.' in ; a south-westerly direction, and connecting (eventually.'with the Saono, which empties into-the Rhone. Thus, by means .'of'..two .canals., is-, the interior of France connected with 1 the sea, and numerous: villages , and towns" are linked' up with £ cheap waterway, .. ~!:,:• Dljoh and Mrs/'bbmbby. ' ;' . : Dijon is ; not -far from-:here. 'It, is the .first large .town, met.-with since. Paris was left behind. As wo proceed, wq observe ahead a pronjinont object,.Bot unlike a church, on .the .most commanding pinnacle |for iniles .around,- We approach another five.rmles and[discpver.. itV.to be- a stature erected many, years, ago to-some,barbarian who :had made 'his- last great' .stand .-.at this point against t-hetarmiesiof. Rome: •, ■-, N .-, .'.-",: ■;•'-. ;.■'■.;.. ~' Of Dijon ;can be said.: It is^.an-up-to-datei city, of, considerable proportions,; and 9™tMn» an ancient church, and other vener- : ftble.:and,.beautiful: edifices and do all other cities Of France" But Dijon has ' this further distinction:. It : was hero that Pickens made Mrs. Dombey, and' Carker to" meet—and part! :• ; : ■ ,:\ -~ K 'y •'} 'South;, of Dijon" wo. enter some 'of the "most celebrated, vintage .grounds of France. A great, plarh opens out, a! plain sloping gently 'from the' : highlands on'our right "to the:distant>; horizon, on'our left. , As far 'as the ,eyo\can ■; see extend' tho patches of squares, ' each square a/.'separate draughtboard, - until i distance obliterates, the distinctions. 'For- i htty miles we, ride; through such scenery. It i is" impressive in its' immensity. Each-plat of .squares, lit most cases, denotes separate ' ownership. Only here and there are there < large, holders, peoplo -who live in big, pic- 1 turesque houses, and: not in villages. -Not a ; single green grass paddock is passed; every square yard, of earth grows. four stout vine 1 roots, and produces: .how.many lb', of. grapes : of wine P -(Consult ,: rho winter .has been..prolonged, 'and :grea J haste is evident;on all sides,in'the pre Sar- A tyn for the spring. .Bundles of last, year's '

fllloi'of Cellars;-''; ;'.' ''■'■'■;'";- : :•.■.■:-/-. ;t What^.^otange;another few•witne^l.-. .Miles, and i miles ..upon ; -miles TV,' Al ! d y?*>l>is is but ai<por-- * - al ' w i n P, 'ndustry:of''Franfe' 1 -Froni.-ae ,pressM-:pf, tlie peasants the wine .gc^ ;^w^: to^the merchants--.^BWle3,.tha.t:;burrow. ; half.! way -the-:pities^:Tho^ntlof:.these--eellars.and their .-mitiated-. -Barrels' of .wine are treated- here' ■nkoiso-;manyAbottles:,in:New:-Zealaad,-'and -f m ;« , the,'com pari- : ; *??-■. I he:' trams -have special.: trucks,.- wliibh"' ; "CRtam ; JHJge iron casks,.' and : every cafe' and' grooer'svshop .'has its barrels on tap." And ; ' •yet.in..these'-wino-producing.'distncts' one bb-' ■f u*si.- , ? ry v llttlei drunkenness, and one- is' ■ told• aat what .-excess there k can gerieraUy bev attnbnted'.to. absyntlie. For the IOTOr class there 'is no' distinction in the brand of.ao.wiiie;-."blanc".,"(white) br ■■ .rouge (red), is; What is served, the white ; being:, the;, stronger ; of'; the two,, 'and -'•• ' uE?t : -'v&'£?- at' a ny of the vil-. Sf a i ht? '?A l^: FInts)1 nts ) of wugo bfexcellenf quality for;ljd;,?2d.,. or 3d: ? ■'' .

A Fortress; Church. • ' ■J-J l^l7 °&. over the route south to Bouri ,at iournas.a township on the Saon© River ; deviation \mado 'to -investigate- 'a rumou that Wis to;be found a realiy - 'magnincenl ohurch,- .So many;fino ancient:churches hai . J!r^? e that.;;when' one is', specially sinelec out _:, a .. -° f inspection: i 8: general!} :worth., while:. It: is. wonderful- how dnthi old'places'of wor'. "**?! (W' ramparts;;' and , ruins;' ■ and V hbv qulol ?l?i a ., s . u F feit :announces ; itself. In thi-i°?S?:m-Aviation tis a. profitable : one. TK< ohurch-,is .undoubtedly a fine: relic datim *«:>?• as „th«.tenth: century, 'and: beint dedicated to -".'Stf Philiber." ' Since its' nrsi however, :;it has been .variously destroyed'Md; variously renewed, thougt B: °L !t .^main ..tha-t were erected. .The tower is- a citadel V of .' th< piddje.ages; the;, horizontal-, slit-like 'openlags .-Whaoh aJohe' penetrate . the stone tel their; own talej.and inside the. tower anc the-, portion , of:the; floor:, immediately 'ardunc it, are evidences: of strongth that were nol required ior. spiritual : wrestlings' alone. Per feiwA-'-ir^^^T' portion a lesser degree' some times-the - many- other 'churches 'that one has seen or sees in Franco. • We enter: the building boldly, for thonct a . :fe f. . wo f sn lßP?i-3 - are silently .:, kneelini Week, and the peculiai of incense- betokens that,.mass hai recently been held—the churches %d alwavi open to visitors.''We,enter througlf'a heavj iron door, • in ■-. which-, are. two unmis takablo bullet marks.,- Facing us. at thi eastern t end are. the beautiful chancel "windows,- chaste, in their- colouring and' design indeed m these old churches one realises Sic [WPUrposepf the coloured window in. the light-effects, it has on the rinterior. Ten little ornamentation- is observed about th< altar, - beautiful back-hangings' anc large candles .-The pulpit is picturesquely Bituated m'tlie .body of the Phurch..Th< seats.-,are, rush-bottomed,, and have in.froni similar,ohairs, 1 though' smaller, for..,prayei desks.!. .Some, of -these:.chairs are : being earned round; and-knelt, upon at: the differeivl altarsi-.by- devout. women... -The smaller; 'al-tars,-,alorig;the,;,sides,! pf,.the building, leach tfithvA• representation ,-df.:the Saint to -,whon it is'dedicated, are numerous.- In one'plaw ™so- •«:■'■»•' very beautiful, representation oi the. Garden of ~Gethsemano'.- containing -. a figure-of Christ. Around the J walls ; of the jhurch, are .-.very old, coloured.- engravings fra mod, o f-the-eight-Stations of the Cross' rhe church organs comparatively smal Dipo instrument—occupies. a gallery immedi-itely-oyer the principal entrance. Near the loor, as we leave. wo - observe :■ a notice indicating the fees., that- are expected to be aaid for the occupancy of. the various pews. jJutside'tho church, in the porch, an pic lame offers us post-cards of the building al 3 cents eaoh.

In tho Markets. ; We havo entered Tournas on Saturday, and thus have"-to' pass through the market in,full oporation. Every town; and' city of ; France_ seems; to have 'its publio market places'in open squares;where goods are sold without the additional, cost -that rent of premises. entails. With difficulty we wheel our .•bipyclcscthrough" tho 'throngs of pooplo who are''passing.,along the; streets of-. ;tho'.- small' town. Thdy afo m'ostlyin;from tho Country, atlird is ; .that"of tbo towns, except that,wooden clogs are in universal- use, -and the women, instead of hats, wear white and black shawls over their heads. We reach tho market square—a large area, in the centre of the two, jad hare

the dealers stand over their wares. Spread' out on canvases oil the. ground, on rough benches, on hand-barrows . are wares of all kinds. It' is' quite a'.gau'dydisplay,'though a very: useful onb,'''Bargaining .is'.tho characteristic. ' The' quotations.-' are.'" always in "sous" (half-pennies). ■' .You can ,gat .any = thing-.here'/from a suit of clothes' or a sot harness to a packet of lbllios or a 'thimble, • and if ybu can't got..it hero,the. stops are still open in the background. In thq ing the goods will all be packed, up, and the next' market day is Tuesday or Wednesday. '■ /" ' '■;. ■■ : ■ :.

L'Egllse do Brou, '■■'- ' '• , ;B6'urg,- I said, ■■'■. was the immediate destination of this day's ride. ;.At Bourg is a magnificent church -of tho sixteenth . century." Long bo.fore reaching as far south as Bourg, one has become bored with the num,ber.and sameness/ of the numerous ancient churches. But "L'Egliso de Broil"'surpasses anything'so far seen. : It is under tho charge of-the Minister for Beaux Arts, the monks' .haying-been expelled in' 1901; '.' Their place .adjoining is now a barracks'for soldiers. The church was built in. 1511 by tho great.Savoy . family;-',- but - its -chief delight.; is tho' carving and marble', decorations 'in- the choir.' ' It would require the pen arid knowledge of a Rusmn to .describe these carvings and sculpture, and tell .their -significance,, history; and,', connections:. with'..: contemporary art.' Matthew, 'Arnold has'•■ made', the^.: cbjirtti celebrated in; a poem. .' But the' ; ordinary individual, can only wonder at the. spirit which embued the artist.;and the.proiligacy of their art and imagination. One naturally wonders also ! if the voice of: tho preacher will again go forth from the quaint four-foot reading-desk, which still stands in its place >£' the church. Rumour says in Prance that .the Church party are gradually' again' coming back to. their own. To Switzerland. ' - ' From Bourg it; is an interesting afternoon's, train journey to Geneva, Switzerland. The cost of travelling, in : France- is,.about the same as in New. Zealand, though- thirdclass is cheaper than.New Zealand's second'class' (4-sd. per mile), and as comfortable. Cycles are. carried .free. '' -~. ,'. . .-..■

'.' Belg'arde is the, frontier town. The wholo French, frontier is very-carefully- watched, particularly in the xicinity.of the rivers.:-. In some- of ,the rivers drag-hooks: ; ire ;< lowered each, night .after • dark to .'catch': ; goo.ds .that, may be sent down. Tlie story runs that very often profitable hauls are made,V, and ■■that 'once'-a man was caught in- the -act.ofrswim-, ming past with a cask of gbods.VVJßutt every-' thing is'.done on both-sides':'of :tho frontier to facilitate the.passage of travellers' goods once -bona fides are established. ~v\ ':'■:'■'.