HINTS FOR HOME.DRESSMAKERS.

Dominion, Volume 1, Issue 96, 16 January 1908, Page 3

HINTS FOR HOME.DRESSMAKERS.

f ■ The:first thing to consider in making clothes n nowadays is the foundation lining. A great r number of tho foundations aro made sepao rate and not attached to-tho material at all. n This, for many reasons, is a wiso and sen-' II sible improvement,' for if you choose to have i- a silk foundation you can wear, it with se- .- veral dresses, and also there is more possibi- ;. lity of changing the appearance of. thin sumo mer clothes by different-coloured foundation e linings. For summer clothes especially it is d nice to be able, to "tub" the linings, as it s. gives tho dress a much fresher and crisper r look. . _ u To begin with, let us consider the foundag tiotife for muslins, organdies, and all tlio thin :- transparent and . semi-transparent summer s materials from cottons to silks. These sepa--6 rato foundation, linings are made in two i-' types; one for the distinctly'lingerio clothes, n and another for tho materials of heavier [•'. weight. • ... e The lingerie foundation is usually mado of h a light-weight wash material, or of India or it China silk, which aro ranked as washable mail terials.. The waist portion is mado not unn liko an ordinary well-fitting under-body, jf but it usually lias the long French ig darts from the shoulders whicli give it a moro fitted line at the aides and under the arms, with tho desired fullness in the straight .line across tho front at tho.Waist. S These bodices fasten down either, the centre-back or the centre-front, according to choice. Below the waist-lino.they aro finished j With a fitted yoke or peplum pioco to which tho.skh;t is attached. Tho skirt portion .may j.j. be either circular or gored. You will readily, j. see that a skirt, of this kind will fit With smoothness and be an excellent- one for,'the a l one-piece Priiiccsae and gimp dresses. The l v width of tho' foundations is noticeably nart,j rower, tho skirts in many cases not measuring mor'o than fhreo yards 'and a U_ Small puffa arc. used for sleeves. . Theso s puffs are cut longer on tho top side than n l tormerly and aro very shallow in-the undor0f arm portion. A casing is run two inches from 0 f tho top of tho a'rmhole inside of the puff, q f through which a, light bone is placed to hold 0 f tlio sleeve out: slightly. 0 j . For a slim woman,, a foundation lining with er a yoke is a good model. This has the bodice llv cut with the usual shoulder yoke and the a front bre-adths joined to.tho yoke with slight fullness. Slight women—especially those r with thin necks —will also find that darts on e " tho shoulders will aid in fitting and add fullness to the front of their waists. Ono dart jjg will usually bo sufficient, made by a deep. | ]0 V taken at the top and sloped to nothing sg above tho bust-line. These darts are usually er taken at about tho cohtro of tho sbouldern scam between tho neck and tho armhole. j]f Tlicv should not bo too near tho collar-line, e _- or tfiey will make the front of the waist bulgo below tho collar. , r „ The lower portions of foundation skirts aro • e _ finished in several, different ways. _ The linia_ gcrio ones arc usually trimmed with knife,r plaited or gathered rufiles from four to six inches dcop. Thcso rufUes are put on with a ho corded top without a heading, as a heading to on a foundation ruffle is not likely to look on well on a plain drop skirt unless tho overskirt also liappcns to. .be trimmed with a ; ss ruflle. ' Tho edge of tho foundation rufflo is ed fnced oil the inside with a narrow bias'fold e<l of a slightly heavier-weight lining. • This ho kocps it m place and gives a body to tho edgo oh of tho skirt. Tho material under this dust K- rudle is very often cut away from beneath ed the foundation lining in order to lighten tho ,y- weight. If it is for a lingerie gown the fonnily dation is then mado of very light-weight ul material, and this cutting away is unnccosin Biiry. Tho under edge of your foundation lining may, bo finished with a narrow, gathered riilllo. Many of the foundation skirts for tlio longer dresses aro mado without any of. dust rufflo whatever, but are simply'finished with, a cut circular, flounce', the lower edgo bowl ing -faewl- with light-weight flannei or cloth nd and p'fiiiilitcd at reguiar sjacea,