Not Champagne, but almost

Press, 19 December 1989, Page 9

Not Champagne, but almost

Say Merry Christmas with ...

Maurice Hunter’s

GRAPEVINE

It is, they say, the season to be jolly, and what better way of being jolly than to open a bottle of the festive wine, champagne? The choice this year is wide. Relaxation of import controls has opened the way for a greater range of bubblies than ever before. Although not all of them are true champagne, many of them are very well made and serve the purpose adequately at a reasonable cost. Whether a sparkling wine should be called “Champagne” is a question which has been vigorously debated. In France it is well known that the title should be applied only to those wines produced by the traditional method of fermentation in the bottle in the province of Champagne. A watchdog organisation, the Comite Interprofessional du vin de Champagne, jealously guards the reputation of the style of wine which has been painstakingly evolved since the seventeenth century. It has several times invoked international law to bring transgressors into line.

This is as it should be. Standards should be maintained. It is easy to imagine the furore if the French were to sell Canterbury lamb, or an Australian rugby team were to tour Europe wearing All Black jerseys.

Few of us are in a position to follow the late Sir Winston Churchill’s example by imbibing a bottle of Pol Roger daily. We are therefore dependent upon vintage information from the champagne houses themselves. One of the most consistent to keep the New Zealand market informed is the house of Laurent-Per-rier, from whom we learn that the total 1989 harvest for Champagne, in spite of frost damage at the end of April and excess humidity at flowering, will produce 279 million bottles. This will cover estimated sales of 255 million, leaving the odd

24 million to sit and think for another year or so. Since the current year’s wine will obviously not be released for another four years at least, it is more profitable to consider the available vintages. 1976, they say, is the vintage for watch for. Under the heading of magnificent, glorious, historic, the report is so eulogistic that it warrants repetition,

“No superlative appears out of place to qualify this memorable and historic harvest. The surprise was caused by the importance of ‘cuidage’ (in Champagne this means to harvest more than is expected), but above all by the precocity of the harvesting which began on Monday, August 30, in the early sectors. The flowering had taken place at an early period and progressed rapidly, but above all sunshine had been continuous throughout the summer and the temperature exceptional. August, which they say develops the flavour, was a long series of warm days and mild nights. The excess of sunshine, which is often maleficient to agriculture, had on the contrary done the most good to the vineyards. Such conditions are only to be found once or twice a century, and even then ... 1

"Contrary to what had been feared, an additional chance was that the rain in early September did not have a disastrous effect on the grapes. With very rare exceptions, the grapes were truly at the

height of the condition when they were picked. “The Chardonnay grapes had a beautiful shade and were particularly wonderful. However, the dark blue of the pinot noir and the meunier had no need to be envious. A good balance is the outstanding features to characterise the elements which are confered (sic) to the wine to be born. It is the revelation of a great vintage to come.” This nectar of the gods should be on the way from France right now. It will come in standard bottles, magnums and half bottles. Perhaps if I talk to my bank manager nicely I could manage a half bottle!

If French bubbly is on your shopping list but you do not wish to go the whole way with champagne, either vintage or non vintage, there are some excellent bottle-fer-mented wines which, because they are not produced in the province of Champagne, must be labelled “Mousseux” but are similar in all other respects. Such a one is Le Piat d’Or, which no-one need be afraid to place on the Christmas table. Time now to come down to earth and talk about what most of us will be drinking. In the selection of local wines the old favourites Lindauer (almost a household word by now) and Hyland are maintaining steady sales, and are hard to beat in quality and value. For those who prefer the full fruitiness and

residual sweetness of an Asti style, Montana Bernadino is an excellent substitute for the Italian. Giesen Canterbury Cuvee, a bubbly of good balance, attractive yeastiness and finely beaded in the glass is eminently suitable as an aperitif or a main course wine. Daniel le Brun, I am told, in addition to his very fine vintage ’B6, has also excelled in the latest release of his non vintage wines which are reputed

to be the best he has produced to date. His methode champenoise rose is also worthy of attention. Made from pinot meunier, one of the standard champagne grapes, it is a dry style and fresh on the palate. A burst of promotional activity by Seppelts of Australia has brought Great Western back from the booai. Great Western sparkling is recognised as one of the best methode champenoise styles and has a strong following. A country which has not been generally recognised as a source of champagne styles, namely Spain, has become more prominent of late. The two best known labels being Freixenet Cordon Negro and Rondel. Both are attractively packaged. The Rondel, from one of the most prestigious areas, Catalonia, was considered to be the better value by a "Cuisine” panel last year. Rondel reserva brut in>its distinctive black bottle is a lovely wine and good value, Rondel semi-seco, in a frosted bottle, is a fragrant wine with a soft medium sweet finish, also good value, while Rondel semi-seco rosado offers an equally attractive rose style. It is now time for my traditional plea for bubbly fans not to pop the cork when opening the festive bottle. Think of the centuries of tradition which have gone into bringing the wine to you in the finest possible condition. May I wish all readers a very happy, bubbly Christmas.