Fried tofu served Indonesian-style

Press, 11 December 1989, Page 9

Fried tofu served Indonesian-style

In its unadorned state, tofu is a rather forbidding substance. Not only does its flabby white mass wobble like the stomach of a Pommie sunbather, but its flavour is subtle to say the least. Bland though it may be by itself, however, tofu is the perfect vehicle for other flavours. In the past I often marinated it, but earlier this year in Indonesia, I learned an even better technique of forcing the accompanying flavours to impregnate the tofu. This is to simmer the cut pieces in a small amount of highly flavoured liquid. Tofu is, of course, Chinese in origin. Since the Chinese have been in Indonesia for as long as the substance itself has been in existence, it is well ingrained into Indonesian culture. Known there as tahu, it is nevertheless found mainly in the larger towns where there are large concentrations of Chinese. It is estimated there are over 11,000 tofu shops to serve the population of 130 million Indonesians. Most Indonesian tofu is firm in texture, similar to the extra-firm varieties recently introduced on to the New Zealand market by both Bean Supreme and Hings. The only difference between this and regular tofu is that having been coagulated into a solid mass and the whey drained off, the soybean curd is pressed longer with a heavier weight. Unlike Chinese-style tofu which is almost always coagulated with calcium sulphate or magnesium chloride, the tofu makers of Indonesia make a coagulant from whey Which has been left overnight to ferment. The leftover whey, with its sawdust-like soybean fibres, is also made into a type of tempe. Another peculiarly Indonesian innovation is to simmer the cakes of tofu — ——._

in turmeric until they turn bright orange. As in China and other parts of SouthEast Asia, tofu is also fermented, salted, or deep-fried. In Java, where tofu is especially popular, itinerant hawkers sell deepfried cubes with a couple of chillies perched on top. Alternatively, larger pieces come with a spicy vegetable filling. Tofu chips are made by drying strips of tofu in the sun. After having been grilled, they are eaten as a snack or form a topping for gado gado (cooked vegetables with peanut sauce). This recipe, which was demonstrated to me in Bali, employs a basic list of condiments and a simmering technique which can be applied to a wide variety of meats and vegetables. A “tumis” made with shrimps or kangkung (water spinach) is popular in Ball. Even the dragonflies which the children delight to catch can be turned into a tumis. The tauco (salted and fermented soy bean paste), laos (an Indonesian ginger-like root) and kecap manis (Indonesian sweet soya sauce) mentioned in the recipe are all available from Asian food stores. Tumis Tahu Finely chop 4 shallots (or 1 small onion) and 3 cloves garlic. Slice 1 to 2 fresh chillies (depending on their strength) into very fine slivers, lengthways. Cut 1 tomato into slices. Cut a 300 g cake of

extra-firm tofu into slices about the size of a domino, and then halve each of these to form small fingers. Measure 2 cups spring onions, cut in half lengthways and then crossways in two or three places (ideally they should be the same length as the tofu fingers). In a large frypan, heat 2T coconut oil, and then fry first the shallots and garlic, then the chilli, then the tomato, 2 daum salam leaves (substitute bay leaves), and 1 tsp laos powder (optional). Add the tofu and fry, carefully separating the pieces. Add a half a tablespoon each of soy sauce and kecap manis (substitute molasses). Now add the spring onions, turn the heat up, and cover the pan. When after 8 to 10 minutes the spring onions have turned bright green, turn the mixture carefully and add half a tumbler of hot water. Remove the cover from the pan and allow the liquid to reduce, adding after a time, another half tablespoon each of the soy sauce and kecap manis. Add a little- more water from time to time (maximum of half a glass) as the mixture dries out. There should always be some sauce on the bottom of the pan, but do not add too much water or you will lose the flavour which has impregnated the tofu. Three minutes before the end of cooking add IT tauco (substitute Chinese black bean paste). Serve with rice