Chanel collection in sombre mood

Press, 28 July 1989, Page 10

Chanel collection in sombre mood

Karl Lagerfeld’s obsession with black dominated Chanel’s autumn and winter fashion collection this week, creating a mood that ranged from sombre to sinister.

There was no denying the grace of Lagerfeld’s draped black evening dresses or the airy chiffon skirts which floated around the models’ legs like storm clouds.

But coming at the end of a collection which had already featured many dark velvet jackets and short black skirts, they gave out a sombre message.

“He’s got rid of last year’s gimmicky effects, which is a good thing, but I find it all a bit

sinister for my liking,” commented one fashion expert. The pony-tailed West German designer offered a new style of skirt — tight over the haunches with a panel of loose pleats at the front, dubbed the “tiny body” for reasons best known to Lagerfeld. Another variation was a black chiffon skirt which fell in two scoops from a short front to mid-calf at the back.

The stylist, however, used a light touch for some playful wool tunics, worn pixie-style over black tights and belted with the gold chain which has become Chanel’s signature.

Winter collections showing in Paris, NZPA-Reuter

Much-missed from the catwalk was aristocratic Ines de la Fressange, Chanel’s star model since 1984, whose vibrant charm always gave Lagerfeld’s collections a special lift. The beautiful mannequin’s appearance was cancelled shortly before the collection amid rumours that Lagerfeld was jealous of her growing popularity. Fashion journalists noted that photographs of de la Fressange, who

usually features in all Chanel publicity, were absent from the programme given to buyers and media. Princess Caroline of Monaco was in the front row, wearing a linen Chanel suit The princess, a devout admirer of former Christian Dior designer Marc Bohan, set tongues wagging on Monday by snubbing this season’s Dior collection — created by Italian designer Gianfranco Ferre, management’s new choice.

The Ted Lapidus collection, shown earlier today, was welcome surprise to many.

After a bitter court dispute with his son over

the rights to the family name, Ted Lapidus has finally handed the reins to his son Oliver, who gave up his bid to set up a rival label.

The 30-year-old Oliver bridged the generations as the show opened with a filmed flashback paying affectionate tribute to the swinging 60s when Ted Lapidus was at his height. Models wearing John Lennon- spectacles and psychedelic satin trouser suits pranced by to the strains of Beatles hit song “All You Need Is Love.” But underneath the surface froth the inspiration was strictly modern and highly individual.