THE MENU

Press, 7 October 1988, Page 25

THE MENU

Oasis of hospitality

THE NUGGET POINT HOTEL QUEENSTOWN

tBy

nancy mcmillan

The Nugget Point luxury hotel, officially opened in June this year, lies a 15-minute drive from Queenstown. To reach it, one travels through the same narrow, steep-sided valley skiers use to get to the Coronet Peak skifield. On a cold winter’s night recently, the valley seemed particularly black and uninviting. Few other cars were on the road, and I began to regret our choice of venue and to hanker for the lights and conviviality of Queenstown. Moments later, however, we were parking the car between newlylandscaped gardens and all-weather tennis courts lit for night playing and glancing in at the illuminated, much-lauded luxury apartments as we walked to the main door. We were welcomed by friendly staff at the reception desk, and immediately received an impression of warmth, light, flowers, and cheerfulness. We ordered some drinks and then, with glass in hand and at the invitation of the staff, wandered through the bar and lounge to look more closely at the work of the interior designer, Auckland’s Virginia Smith. Her work combines the streamlined shapes and colours of the 1980 s with a collection of French antique furniture and rustic artefacts. The main colours in the

public rooms are grey and :urquoise, enlivened by a lot of white, including a white grand piano, natural woods, paintings, and beautiful arrangements of both fresh and dried flowers. Open fires blaze on great hearths and friendly staff can be heard advising on food, tours and ski techniques. The aim seems to be a house party atmosphere in some luxurious alpine lodge, a Huka Falls of the South.

We went through the French doors to the balconies outside and gazed over the edge to just make out a loop of the Shotover River far below us. On this black night, it was scarcely visible, but on a moonlit night or a sunny day, the views from here must be breathtaking.

Back in the dining room, we settled down to consult the wine list and menu. Here, too, the colours were turquoise and grey, and fresh flowers — the cheerful pinks and reds of ranunculas — graced candlelit tables. Staff, friendly and dignified, gave us expert attention, and music played discreetly in the background. Another fire blazed, this time from a fireplace with a magnificent surround of wooden planks silvered with age, in front of which slept not a hound but an at times rather too friendly cat, prompting S. to consider health regulations. To my regret, the cat was eventually removed. Again, modern lines were softened by old wooden furniture, including two tall, narrow, cor-

ner cupboards, carved in a French style, one open to display a collection of very pretty china, and the other some enticing-look-ing wines. The “winter” wine list started confidently with Dom Perignon at $l3O a bottle and included other offerings from France, Spain, Portugal and Australia (but not Germany). There was a wide selection of New Zealand wines, too, and we decided to give the Dom Perignon a miss and settle for a Delegats Sauvignon Blanc, new to both of us. I have difficulty with reds. According to the steward, the Delegats had received favourable comment in the United States recently. It cost us $2l.

We both decided to begin the meal with the soup of the day, a thick pea and ham, given added flavour and texture by, I think, walnuts ($4.50). Each serving arrived piping hot in its own mini tureen of thick white china. It was a hearty and generous course and an excellent way to warm up as the temperature outside dropped below zero.

I did wonder whether I could manage an entree as well if the servings continued to be as generous. Each of the five offerings sounded so interesting, however, that I felt I must try one. I was tempted by a vegetarian suggestion, which was also available as a main, entitled “Spicy gingered vegetables served over a curry flavoured pastry case” ($6.25 or $12.25), but eventually settled on Goujon of Blue Cod, rolled in seeds and served in an

avocado and lemon puree ($8.25). I need not have worried about size. Monsieur le chef clearly had no intention that the entrees would detract from the rest of his fine dinner, as a better knowledge of motor mechanics and French language might have told me. The .zord “goujon,” meaning gudgeon or dowel, presumably should have reassured diners that these servings would be modest. Beautifully presented, again on white china, and with the flavour of the cod preserved, these dainty morsels did little more than whet the appetite and allow me just enough time to savour the delicate sauce accompanying them. S. chose Poached Fouveaux oysters served over rice, topped with a green peppercorn sauce ($7.25). These arrived in three shells, two oysters in each. He found the oysters delicious and certainly not over abundant, but the rice was rather too dry and sweet for his taste.

There were six mains from which to choose, with prices ranging from $16.25 for a calves’ liver dish to $22.50 for milk fed veal. They each came accompanied with a different sauce: orange, rosemary cider vinegar, port and cheese, cider dill, pink sauce with mustard seed and fresh ginger, light coconut cream, and spicy oregano. I shall leave you to guess what meats and fishes they graced but hope you agree they make a tantalising list.

In any case, I chose the Rib of Lamb Rastaburn with capers, served with the rosemary cider vinegar sauce ($17.75). The six little chops came most beautifully arranged and garnished, and an accompanying finger bowl left me in no doubt as to how to approach them. They were quite delicious, retaining the flavour of lamb, and set off by the sharpness of the capers and the sauce. I chose cooked vegetables with this dish and would have liked them rather less well done.

S. chose a filet of beef Nugget Point, rare, and blazed in a port and cheese sauce. The blazing occurred off-stage but even without the drama apparently bestowed a very good taste, “rich, dark, and tangy.” S. chose a salad to go with this dish and found it crisp and fresh.

For dessert, I chose a delightfully light and creamy mousse while S. decided on a chocolate and walnut cake in which, he said, both chocolate and walnuts were abundant. The two came to $l5.

Excellent black coffee rounded off this most satisfying meal. Without the drinks, it had cost us $78.25.

We drove back towards the lights of Queenstown feeling that far from having been deprived of resort conviviality, we had been cosetted for the evening in an oasis of luxurious warmth and hospitality.