Oregano and marjoram: subtly different.

Press, 13 September 1988, Page 10

Oregano and marjoram: subtly different.

Food & Fable

by

David Burton

Of all the world’s herbs, the two most commonly confused are oregano and marjoram. While they are closely related (they both belong to the genus origanum) and used more or less interchangeably, there is a subtle difference in flavour.

Marjoram tends to be mild and sweet, rather

like thyme, and should only be added to a dish I near the end of cooking to

prevent its scent being dissipated. Oregano, on the other hand, being its wild cousin, is more pungent in flavour.

Both marjoram and oregano seem to lose very little of their potency with drying, however, which makes them invaluable for winter months when fresh herbs are out of season.

Marjoram thrives in the mild climate of the Mediterranean, but the peoples

there have a penchant for strongly-flavoured food and prefer the untamed vigour of oregano.

In Greece, oregano is only rivalled by mint as the most popular herb. The lamb kebabs known as souvlakia owe their character to the oregano and lemon juice which are sprinkled over them, as do many fish dishes. No traditional “village salad” of cucumber, tomato, black olives and onion is complete without a little oregano.

The Greek name rigani (with the accent on the last syllable) refers to no less than 10 varieties of oregano, among the best known of which are origanum onites, or pot marjoram, Q. pulchrum, O. smyrnacium, O. dubium, O. paniflorum and O. heracleslicum (which

is sometimes cultivated in gardens). In one of history’s earliest cookery books, written by a second century librarian by the name of Athenaeus, it is claimed the finest rigani came from Tenedos, a small island in the Aegean Sea near the mouth of the Hellespont.

Crete has its own variety, known as dictamo or maliarahorta (hairy herb), the Cretan dittany (O. dictamnus) which is, however, mostly used for traditional medicine rather than cookery. With a few exceptions most varieties of rigani are very strongly flavoured. It is this which adds the authentic Greek character to their national dishes.

In Greece, rigani grows wild on the mountains and hillsides. Each May the

sprigs are gathered while in full purple bloom, and dried for sale.

Retaining the flower heads seems to add both to the scent and the keeping quality. In Greek mythology Aphrodite took rigani from the depths of the ocean to the top of Mount Ida where it would be closer to the sun (which is good advice for modern growers) and it was with her handling that the herb gained its sweet perfume. This story explains the origin of the name oregano, derived from the ancient Greek words oros, mountain, and gamos, brightness. r

Potato and

Yoghurt Salad

This unusual and littleknown Greek dip is excellent with triangles of

wholemeal toast or pieces of pita bread as a meze, or appetiser. It also goes well with a hearty winter stew. While it can be made in a food processor, the results will be rather more glutinous than that produced by hand. Peel Ikg potatoes and boil or steam until cooked. Mash, then stir in 2C yoghurt, 4 crushed cloves garlic, 2t dried rigani or oregano, y 2 t salt and y 2 t pepper. Finally, stir in 3T olive oil and 2T lemon juice.

Sprinkle over 3 to 4 finely sliced spring onions and 10 to 12 black olives.