Beyond the roaring 40s

Press, 20 July 1988, Page 9

Beyond the roaring 40s

By

CHRISTOPHER MOORE

The sea, ornithology, adventure and a boat called Totorore are the loves of Gerry Clark’s life. The man who circumnavigated Antarctica described in Christchurch yesterday the triumph and near tragedy that became part of the 1983-86 voyage in the Southern Ocean. Mr Clark and his crew sailed from the warm orange groves of Kerikeri to the fiords, glaciers and icebergs of South Georgia, and the South Sandwich and Crozet Islands. They were driven by desire to learn more about the environment and wildlife of a pristine but threatened region.

Mr Clark is a former British merchant marine officer who became a Northland orchardist. He describes his voyage with classic English understatement. Stories that would chill a landlubber’s heart are outlined in a calm, matter-of-fact style. He admits that there were times during the Totorore’s voyage when he and his crew faced death. The 11m wooden cutter rolled over five times during one storm, dragging her crew under. She was dismasted and lost engine power. The boat and her crew escaped pack ice off the Antarctic Peninsula, sailed smoothly through the islands of the Chilean archipelago and took a battering round Cape Horn. Mr Clark remains modest about his

achievements, which were recognised with the award of the M.B.E. and an award “for cruising in high latitudes,” from the Royal Cruising Club of Great Britain.

“I would go back at any time, but I wouldn’t choose to relive some of the terrifying experiences. It is an unspoiled, beautiful region but one which faces continuing risks from exploitation,” Mr Clark said.

“It is not realistic to expect that there will be absolutely no exploitation, but strict controls must be imposed on man’s activities.” Mr Clark admires the work of the French oceanographer, Jacques Cousteau, in publicising the situation facing marine life. That same concern prompted his decision to voyage south. “Many people thought that I was extremely foolhardy to go in such a small boat. The prospect put off some prospective crew members...

“My wife was apprehensive about the risks we would face but supported the idea of sailing around Antarctica to gain information about seabirds. In fact, she started me thinking about the threats to the balance of Nature and the fact that a very delicate Antarctic environment can be so easily upset.” Mr Clark’s mental log of the voyage contains several memorable chapters — a visit to South Georgia (“the most beautiful

place we visited”), a climb to the peak above Cape Horn. Above all, he remembers the challenges and unpredictability of the weather. “There might have been the bad days, but the weather could also be very good — blue skies and marvellous sunsets which turned the ice and snow deep pink.”

His exploration of southern waters gathered valuable Information about wildlife and the effects of human incursion into the region. While fur seals and king penguins were experiencing healthy population growth, whales had been hunted to the point of extinction and nesting grounds of the wandering albatross were threatened.

Mr Clark’s own instinct for survival was tested during the voyage.

“We faced death but I think that a strong sense of survival emerged from this. It has been very difficult to settle down to life ashore after the voyage. I took the Totorore to the Chathams last Christmas for a small expedition but I still have other voyages in mind. Nothing concrete — but I’m open to any suggestions, especially projects concerned with birdlife,” he said.

Whatever plans are laid, they will certainly involve his beloved Totorore. “I suspect that I’ll retire before the boat,” he said.