Old library serves a treat

Press, 17 June 1988, Page 30

Old library serves a treat

By

MAURICE HUNTER

It was, perhaps, a little unfortunate that we decided to review Chambers Restaurant when we did. First, the ownership has changed and the staff had had a shakedown period of only a fortnight. Second, we dined there on the last evening before drastic price reductions came into force. First, let me deal with the price reductions. The minimum charge of $3O per person has been ditched, as also has the $2 cover charge for live entertainment and the corkage charge of $1.50 per bottle for 8.Y.0. guests. Meal prices have been reduced by an average of 28 per cent over the appetisers, soups and entrees, 8.5 per cent in the mains, and 17 per cent in desserts.

In detailing the meal I will give the new prices including GST.

We skipped the appetisers of fresh garden terrine and smoked eel and seafood mousse, and Stanley and I ordered potage aux fruits de mer, or seafood soup ($4.40). It was delightful, piping hot,

topped with cream and green garnish, and with loads of whole shrimps and other delectable bits and pieces. On with the entrees, camembert papillote for Thirza and Stanley. This consisted of camembert cheese with smoked salmon in a phyllo case,

baked and served with Cumberland sauce ($9.52). It looked terrific, the fine pyhllo pastry having assumed a shape not unlike a miniature Sydney opera house and, I was assured, was a great combination of flavours. Jocelyn chose rognons de Florentine, lamb’s kidneys marinated in port, pan fried with bacon and onions, and served in a pastry vol au vent resting on a puree of creamed spinach ($8.20). It was consumed with every evidence of enjoyment. My entree of game Ravioli, fresh tomato and spinach ravioli filled with minced venison served with a tomato and garlic sauce ($8.20) was really tasty, a little too tasty for the Cloudy Bay sauvignon blanc, but that was not the chef’s fault. I should have given it more thought, especially since the menu listed wine recommendations for every course.

The special main of the day was one which neither Thirza nor Jocelyn could resist —- whole Kaikoura crayfish at $25. And it was a whole crayfish, perfectly cooked and the tail cracked for easy access. Lemon scented finger bowls were provided — and they were needed! The girls persevered until every edible morsel had been disposed of.

Stanley’s venaison aux fruits, New Zealand venison marinated in port wine, pan fried with gin and served in a red berry sauce ($23.76) was, he said, spot on. Some farm venison is inclined to be rather bland, but not this one. It was gamey and tender and the plate was cleared completely. My poulet aux saumon was as equally appreciated. Whole breast of chicken stuffed with a smoked salmon mousse, baked and served on a fresh herb sauce ($17.33), it was tender to a degree, the only problem being my usual one, the portion was too large and I could not eat it all.

The vegetables were served on separate, pre-

heated plates, and consisted of a baked potato, brussels sprouts and yams, nicely cooked al dente, and sauteed onions.

The dessert menu included one with the intriguing name of Hot Fruit Savarin, a French style savarin, filled with pears, served hot and glazed with a kiwifruit sauce. -

This was Stanley’s choice and he may now rejoice in the signal honour of being the last person in the world to eat Hot Fruit Savarin at the Chambers. It has been discontinued in favour of hot fruit crepes! Although a very nice dessert, ■ the bugbear is that it takes about half an hour to prepare. Jocelyn, who never seems o be assailed with problems of weight, chose what appeared to be the most calorie laden dessert of all, Grand Marnier Marshmallows in Chocolate. As the name suggests, this was a chocolate cup filled to the brim with orange flavoured marshmallows, cream, cherries and pineapple, and served with a fruit garnish. Is it possible to get a more sinful dish for $7.30? Not far behind in calories was Thirza’s order of Yoghurt Brandy Snaps. This turned out to be a brandy snap basket, rather than individual snaps, filled with yoghurt and cream, and served with a fruit garnish and ice-cream. At $6.35 this was pretty good value also.

My home-made icecream — layers of mint and chocolate ice cream served with a raspberry coulis, which I ordered purely in the interests of sampling as wide a range as spossible — was yuck! The ice- cream was grainy, as though it had been held for too long, the mint flavour was overpowering and tasted synthetic and, it being served on a luncheon plate, I could not even scoop up the coulis. It was a poor $7.30 worth.

While consuming our coffee ($2.20) we had a few words with the mana-

ger — manageress (?). (I get fed up with having to distinguish between the sexes while trying not to distinguish between them. Should it be managing person?) In any case, Rosemary Brunner explained some of the ideas she has for the future direction of the Chambers which, as far as she is concerned, must be only, upwards. Improvements which, we felt, could profitably be made, include:— the addition of dry sherry to the pre-dinner drinks choice (only sweet and medium are available at present); the provision of a hand towel with the finger bowls when dealing with the crayfish; repositioning some tables so that service is given from behind the guests rather than by, reaching across; including GST in all prices. Keeping it separate complicates, rather than simplifies, accounting and is merely a pest to the diners.

Overall, it was an enjoyable evening and it is, interesting to note that; our total bill of $254.40! ($63.60 each, including; pre-dinner sherry and] wine) would have been> $228 ($57) if we had \ dined there a couple of I nights later. ; |