China’s choice

Press, 8 December 1987, Page 14

China’s choice

Sesame oil has to be one of China’s more delectable contributions to our store cupboard, yet it remains strangely neglected and even hard to find in this country. < Just a teaspoon or two is enough to send a delightful sesame fragrance., wafting through a dish of plain steamed vegetables, and it is great for marinades, too. Strangely for an oil, however, it is not particularly suitable to use for frying. It is true the Muslims of north China do use: it like this, but the oil Ipses its fragrance when heated (which is why most chefs add it bnly at the end of cooking) and it also smokes and burns at quite a low temperature. Besides which, it is just too strongly flavoured and expensive to use in any great quantity. A friend who lived in China during the Cultural Revolution tells me that during those years sesame oil was so scarce that there was a ration of just half an ounce per person per month. This same friend, having been accused of being a bourgeoise intellectual (he wears glasses) was sent out to the countryside for “re-education” in the simple, honest ways of the peasantry. One of the first things he learned from these untarnished country folk was how they swindled the townies by adulterating consignments of sesame oil! This involved brewing up tea to match the colour of the sesame oil, tipping it into the barrels (where it would sink to the bottom) and then placing the doctored barrels in the centre of a truck load, where they would be less likely to be inspected by government officials. In China some sesame oil is still produced with small hand grinders, and is greatly sought after by Chinese gourmets who prize its superior fragrance and disdain .the products of the large Government-run mills. The sesame oils produced in China, Japan, and Korea are all made from toasted sesame seeds, which accounts for the dark amber colour and the nutty flavour. These Oriental sesame oils are not to be confused with the sesame oils produced elsewhere in the world. Such oils are made from the un-toasted-seed, meaning they are bland and odourless, and for this reason much used in the manufacture of margarine. Since more than half the weight of a sesame seed is in its oil, it is especially suitable for pressing and it is estimated that commercial sesame plantings

amount to some two million hectares world wide. In India, this untoasted sesame oil is known as gingelly oil and is greatly favoured for its long- keeping qualities, even in a humid tropical climate. It is, however, rather looked down upon by those who can afford to cook with ghee (clarified butter). The toasted sesame seed oils also keep for years without going rancid, although I have noticed that for some reason it does not seem to agree with being stored in plastic containers. Perhaps there is something in the plastic which-reacts to the oil. - ’ Sesame and asparagus seem to have a natural affinity, so here is a recipe which takes advantage of all the cheap asparagus which is still around at the moment ■/ T v : Sesame marinated asparagus Choose 500 g (about three bunches) of pencil-thin asparagus (theSe ■./thinner stalks absorb the marinaded better). Wash, and snap the tough off each stem. The point at which fee stem breaks will be where the tough stringy part ends. A more fiddly but economical alternative is to peel the bottom part of the asparagus, which will get rid. of the strings as they are concentrated near the surface of the stem. Cook the asparagus for about 6 minutes, either in a microwave (covered, with a little water to allow the asparagus to absorb the-moisture) or standing upright in a billy or tall pot, with the water level falling short of the delicate tips (which will cook with the steam rising). Meanwhile, toast 2 tablespoons sesame seeds in a dry pan, shaking it often until the seeds are lightly browned. Tip out the seeds, set aside, and return the pan to the heat with 2 teaspoons honey. Melt, the honey and then blend in 1 tablespoon sesame oil, 2 teaspoons wine vinegar, 1 teaspoon soy sauce and */ 2 teaspoon dry mustard ' powder. Drain the cooked asparagus well, then pour over the marinade while both .are still warm. Leave at room temperature for at least two hours but no more than six. Rotate the top stalks to the bottom from time to time. Refrigerate about half an hour before you are ready to eat, and sprinkle over the toasted sesame seeds before serving. If you wish, you can also add some strips of gherkin, cucumber, or lightly steamed carrot.