Sorting the very good from the merely good

Press, 6 January 1987, Page 13

Sorting the very good from the merely good

Maurice Hunter’s

GRAPEVINE

The general standard of

our wines has now reached the stage where there are very few poor ones about or, if there are, the winemakers are keeping them discreetly hidden. So it is becoming more difficult to differentiate between the good and the very good. It is also becoming more difficult to identify the labels because of a growing practice of labelling the wines according to the vineyard or the grower supplying the grapes. A year or so back, for instance, it was not unusual for a style of wine to appear variously labelled “Private Bin riesling sylvaner,” “Private Bin riesling sylvaner late harvest.” “Reserve riesling sylvaner,” “Reserve riesling sylvaner late harvest," and so on.

Add to this bottlings of different years and none of us knew whether we were Arthur or Martha when trying to find a particular, recommended wine.

Then followed a period when the wines were labelled according to regions, such as Marlborough muller thurgau, Gisborne Chardonnay, Hawkes Bay cabernet sauvignon. which made identification much easier.

But now we are entering another stage of confusion with the appearance of similarly styled wines, made by the same winemaker, but from different vineyards, such as Matua Valley Yates Estate Chardonnay and Matua Valley Judd Estate Chardonnay, Villa Maria Gordon dry reserve gewurztraminer, Villa Maria Dow private bin gewurtztraminer, and Villa Maria gewurztraminer.

To add to the con-

sumeris problems. Corbans recently brought out the excellent Stoneleigh range from the company’s Marlborough vineyard, but at least the Corbans name appears on the label. This move was quickly followed by the release of a range of Marlborough Valley wines from “Marlborough-Wines Vineyards and Estates, Ltd.”

Who is this mysterious newcomer? I know that they are Montana Marlborough wines, so why do they not say so? Are they any different from those which we have been buying under the Montana Marlborough label? Because of a remarkable lack of information from Montana, nobody knows.

So there is a case for greater simplicity in labelling. Haring made my plea, let us move on to consideration of wines sampled up to, and during, the holiday season which, because of the aforementioned high standard, has led to some very pleasant experiences.

Babich fume vert ’B6, for instance, is a semillon/saurignon blanc/chardonnay blend, a flavoursome, aromatic, and complex wine, light green tinges, delicately smoky, and with just enough residual sugar to accentuate the fruit to a nicely rounded finish.

Babich sauvignon blanc

’B6 is made from 100 per cent Hawkes Bay fruit It is dry and full-bodied, with the distinctive grassy bouquet and flavour. A very satisfying wine, it is not quite up to the standard of the Marborough wines with which we have been spoiled. Still with Babich, the pinot noir ’B5, estate grown in Henderson, is full and smooth and has added complexity through haring been matured in both French and American oak. With the potential to mature, it would pay to cellar this one for a year or so.

One of the pleasant experiences enjoyed was the sampling of a cluster of chardonnays. Beginning with Villa Maria Chardonnay ’B6, it was a pleasure to meet one which was not overpowered by oak. Slightly citric in character, the bouquet is light but typical, and the flavour a beautiful balance of fruit, oak and acid. There is none of the much-heralded “flinty” finish — just well balanced, lingering, and quite delightful.

In the same mould is Sunrise Valley Chardonnay ’B6, from Weingut Seifried of Nelson. The colour is light, clear gold with attractive reflecting lights. There is a hint of citrus in the bouquet borne out on the palate — a lovely wine, well

handled, which flows over the palate with full fruitiness.

Corbans private bin Chardonnay 'B4 is a pale gold colour, clear and lively, with a bouquet holding the promise of well-balanced oak and fruit which is definitely fulfilled on the palate. This is a delightfully fruity Chardonnay with a fresh, lingering aftertaste. A contrast was provided by Vidal’s private bin Chardonnay ’B5, a silver award winner in the 1986 competition. This is a clean, restrained wine with a good balance of oak which does not dominate the fruit.

Verging on the austere, it has a fresh, clean finish and is definitely one for the buffs.

Finally, another delightful version from Babich, the gold award and Vintners trophy winner, Irongate Chardonnay ’B5. From Hawkes Bay fruit, fermented and matured in Nevers oak, this is a Chardonnay in the classic tradition, skilfully handled to produce a wine of great balance, full fruit, and unsurpassed finish. It is, unfortunately, one which came to notice when supplies were all but exhausted, but the good news is that the ’B6 will enjoy a wider distribution. Cooks dry gewurztraminer ’B5, although described as medium dry on the label, turned out to be dry in the Alsace style. It is well balanced, and agreeably spicy and, althoagh my personal preference is for slightly more residual sugar, those who prefer the drier style will enjoy this one which finishes clean and fresh and without acidity. McWilliams sauvignon blanc ’B5, from Hawkes Bay grapes, is one of the best I have come across from outside Marlborough. It has a pronounced green gold colour, has the typical “gooseberry” nose, slightly citric in flavour with very full fruit, nicely balanced, and with a satisfyingly lasting finish — good value. Finishing with a red, I found the McWilliams cabernet merlot ’B3, to be well described on the label — 60 per cent cabernet, 40 per cent merlot Hawkes Bay grapes. The cabernet is softened by the merlot and provides a full, fruity wine, velvety on the palate with the oak apparent but nicely blended to a pleasing, soft finish.