New releases please

Press, 16 September 1986, Page 12

New releases please

Maurice Hunter’s

GRAPEVINE I

The Giesens are always good company and excellent hosts. We were gathered together, as it were, for a barrel sampling of 1986 wines, and to celebrate Marcel’s • Kellermeister diploma. Everyone was very happy and proud, and Marcel wore a much more mature and confident air than he had before he left for the gruelling, six-month course in West Germany. Apart from Sundays, work was from 7 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. daily, he told us, and the homework almost invariably kept him out of bed until 2 a.m. Only a young man could stand the pace, and if I had been able to do that I would have been proud and happy too.

We will not, however, experience much of the touch of the Kellermeister this year. Since Marcel’s absence occurred during vintage and beyond, two winemakers were imported from West Germany. Although specific instructions were left by Marcel, I understand that the Giesen telephone toll account hit a new high for a six-month period. We began with the controversial Canterbury “Champagne,” made by Marcel and bottled in July, 1985. It is a blanc de blancs from Canterburygrown Chardonnay, total bottling being a mere 2000. The bouquet is on the light side, but with good clean yeast odours. The bubbles are microfine and rise well.

At this stage, it is a little acidic in the finish but I should imagine that this will smooth out with

time. It is a very acceptable wine which was much appreciated as an aperitif. Labelling is held up until the argument with the French is settled. Frankly, I see no reason for any argument. Montana have seen the light and conceded to the French request not to use the term “champagne” on their labels, and I feel that it is a pity that the issue should have been raised again.

I know all the arguments about strict observance of the methode champenoise, but champagne comes from Champagne and that is all there is about it.

Imagine the uproar if the French, or any other country for that matter, put “Canterbury” lamb on the market!

Progressing to the Rhine riesling, supervised by big brother Alex, according to instructions and, I believe, the main reason for the high toll account, we found a wellmade wine, pale but clean and lively, a little light in bouquet and with a fresh, dry finish. A dry Canterbury muller thurgau did not impress greatly with its

high acid finish. We were to that it will not be marketed as such, but will be blended with Chardonnay and Rhine riesiing to produce a chablis, a wise decision.

The Chardonnay, from Marlborough grapes, has had only two months in oak and has some development ahead of it. The colour has yet to deepen and the bouquet to intensify. There is, nevertheless, good fruit quality. A further period in oak should bring everything together. There is every indication that a good wine will result.

The pinot noir, light in body, has a fresh, clean nose and good balance of tannin, acid, and oak. It is a very drinkable wine at this stage and may develop further. The 1985 cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz, from Marlborough grapes, is the most impressive. Its fantastic, deep rich colour is most inviting and is supported by its big bouquet and full fruit flavour. The finish lingers all the way down and, apart from the fact that it obviously has many years of life to go, there is nothing to be said in criticism.

lt is hard to believe that there is only 8 per cent Shiraz in the blend. Even the Aussies would have to give this one high marks. The gewurtztraminer auslese, characteristically pink-gold in colour, has the full intensity to fruit to be expected in this style of wine, a well made dessert wine which cannot fail to please. The sampling was completed with a ruby port. Fresh and fruity, but not outstanding, it was pleasant enough and rounded off an interesting evening.

At St Helena the winemaker, Mark Rattray, is justifiably pleased with his 1986 releases.

The pinot blanc has this year been wood fermented in addition to wood maturation, a treatment which gives the wine greater depth evident in both bouquet and flavour. Slight residual sugar has been retained, giving it excellent length in the finish. The wine is fully fruited, fresh and palate cleansing. A most acceptable muller thurgau is an addition to the range. Some people look on muller thurgau in a ho-hum sort of way. This reminds me of a comment by a Californian woman, by her own admission not a wine buff, who said that all she wanted in a wine was that it should not be sour and should taste as though there were plenty of grapes in it. This one would suit her admirably. A stop fermented Rhine riesiing, only recently bottled, is still rather sub-

dued and not yet ready for drinking. But already all the necessary ingredients are there for great potential. It is fully fruited with great, balance* and finish. :■)!/■• . '. : The pinot gris this year will be marketed as Rulander for two reasons —■ it is Germanic in-style (Rulander is German for pinot gris), and so naming wili avoid confusion with pinot blanc. Being back blended, it is medium fruity and very easy drinking, a good commercial wine completely different from the 1985 pinot gris.

For limited release is the renowned St Helena pinot noir, the 1985 version of which is well up to the standard of the 'B4 although, when tasted alongside the' latter, demonstrates the need for bottle ageing. But its deep colour, full, clean bouquet and great length in the finish show potential which makes it a must in any cellar.